bluesman94

I voted Gibson for the Explorer. It's not too pointy, not too curvy... and it fits so well with the Explorer's body shape.

i want to know,

do people really like the switch in that place in the first place? i hate it there. very inconvenient, and is pretty much impossible to switch in the middle of a riff.

I tried one out at guitar center, and it didn't give me any problems.

Besides, I'm going to have 3 knobs and 2 mini toggle switches, so I'd rather not crowd everything together in the corner.

(hijacking my own thread)

Does anyone have any experience with these "Original Fender No Load Pots"?

Would they be hard to turn down quickly in the middle of the song if they "click" into 10?

excellent, thanks man

That's perfect! Thanks so much WezV.

I have another question about the "ground-wire from bridge."

I'm going to be installing a floyd. What part of the bridge do I solder the wire to?

I'm building a guitar similar to an Explorer Pro (however it is a neck thru, with the body wings not glued on yet) and I need some help figuring out how to rout for the wires.

This is a normal explorer. They can just cover up all the routing with the pickguard though:

However on an explorer pro, it is all done through the back.

What's bothering me is that I'm not sure how to connect the control cavity and the pup selector cavity.

I don't think my drill is going to be able to get the correct angle if I just try to go in at an angle.

This is the back of an explorer pro,

link

Please help me figure this out!

One pic per post except in the In progress and finished work section, Links to all others, Just a friendly reminder. MK

http://www.floydrose.com/instructions.html

very bottom. You should be able to make a template from those.

here's the solution I came up with. I true up both sides and make up the difference with zebrawood on the back of the body. I'll cut a block into four pieces and arrange them so the grain makes a diamond- shape.

It's not a transistor. Everything seems fine when I check the connections with the multimeter, but when I plug in it just buzzes! Do you think it could be a short?

I thought of those, but then i either lose the neck- through look on the back, or I have a weird line on my neck.

Can the Idea for a neck through and cut off the body half and glue on the neck using a pocket. If you do a good job it will look like one piece.

That's perfect! thanks! I'll tell you guys how it goes

it doesn't have a neck angle, so i can get rid of one side. But then I'm still stuck with one side of unevenness. i'm talking depth. If i true it up, sure i'll have plenty of room for the neck, but i don't want a super- thin body.

It's 1 17/32" at the body, and 1 13/32 where the fretboard will be... worse than i thought

it's on both sides, which is really a bummer. that picture is exaggerated btw.

I got a little crazy with the table saw and accidently cut my neck (it's a through neck) about 1/16 too thin in depth. It's only on part of the neck that will be under the fretboard, because it got moved while I was cutting it. I had a thought of ripping it in half lengthwise, and gluing in a piece of maple. Another option I thought of was putting wood dough on the part that will be concealed by the fretboard, but I'm worried that will severely affect the tone of the guitar. Any other ideas?

very les paul- ish. looks cool

yeah, it looks like what jammy said. and it might double as a nail file

sounds good, jigsaw it within 1/8, and route with template. Do you use a template to cut out the rough shape for the back of the neck?

ok I get it, you threw me off when you said

does that mean you will ruff shape the neck and then shape the back of the neck with rasps? That is probably a poor choice if that is the case.

Oh well, next thing i have to do is route for the truss rod, then I have to inlay the fretboard, and glue it to the body, at which point i can taper and shape, then It's on to fretting. that's the plan anyway.

nope, guess not. I tracked down my old voltmeter and that connection works fine. As do all the other wires. So it must be a component, right?

i understand how thin the lams will be, because they are on the side and will barely be there, but I don't mind. bit late in the game to change it anyway, unless i change my inner lams. But ebony is hard to find and really expensive, so that's really not an option. it sounded like you said it was bad to cut out the rough shape and then round it out, and I really couldn't think of any other way to carve a neck. How did tapering out the neck with a jigsaw go?

i think i found something, i'll tell you guys how the repair goes.

It looks really nice. Do you just cut a taper on the TS or use a router with a template?

I'm planning on using a rasp to do the whole thing. Someone tell me if this is a bad idea. I can't use the table saw because the outer lams at the headstock will be parallel to the inner ones

First, I want to make sure I understand. When you say your planning to use rasps for the whole thing, does that mean you will ruff shape the whole neck and then shape the back of the neck with rasps? That is probably a poor choice if that is the case. You would do much better to ruff cut the taper and basic shape of the neck with a saw, then true it up with a template and router or some method referencing a template. I may just be mis-understanding what you are saying though.

With regards to your outer maple lams. 1/16th of outer lam at the nut is going to createa sliver like look. You may have a full 16th of an inch where the fretboard meets the neck blank, but as soon as you shape the neck much at all you will lose the maple lam(also be extreamly careful to not carve away that bit of maple, as any deviation is going to be very appearant when referencing such a small bit of wood). I just want to make sure you understand that now, and are not taken off gaurd when you get to that point, If that was not your intent, now would be the time to change up the lam configuration if you had invisioned something a little different.

Rich

why would 1/16 be so bad? Are you just talking aesthetically? I really don't like that look on some neck- throughs where the inner lams are really close together, with huge outer lams. I am going to use a router to cut the taper and to carve out the back. Then I'll use a rasp to round it out. how does that sound? The outer lams really aren't my concern. Yes, they'll be thin, but you say I'll lose them when I shape the neck. how?

Also, you say i should ruff cut the taper and basic shape with a saw. Can't I just cut it out with a router and a template first? And you say that it would be a bad idea to ruff cut the whole shape, and then shape the back with rasps. How do you shape the back of your necks? I thought of using a router bit use for cutting curved edges on corners, but it gets wider towards the bridge. you sound pretty experienced with this stuff. this is my first guitar, so your advice is really appreciated!

what does a bad connection look like? All the wires are attached to something.

It looks really nice. Do you just cut a taper on the TS or use a router with a template?

I'm planning on using a rasp to do the whole thing. Someone tell me if this is a bad idea. I can't use the table saw because the outer lams at the headstock will be parallel to the inner ones

Your inner lams look pretty wide to me, How do they compair to the nut width? If your inner group of lams are too wide you may have little or no outer lam at the nut. That of course may be what you want, but it is a design consideration for me when making lams.

Will this neck need to have any angle to accomodate the bridge? Sounds like you went very close to the body depth, when I am planning for a bit of neck angle I have to add a bit of extra neck blank depth.

I do love the look of fine lines using thinner veneers.

Rich

It doesn't require a neck angle, and the outer lams are going to be at 1/16 at the nut, which is quite thin, but it doesn't really matter. Yeah, the veneers in there are the coolest things ever