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PaulNeeds

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Posts posted by PaulNeeds

  1. :D Sad as this is I've become an active member of a tropical fish forum and a digital camera forum.....

    What fish you keep?

    I used to breed discus, but lost interest after I got some pandas to raise their young naturally (I'd read it was impossible - it isn't - just needs lateral thinking and lateral lighting!).

  2. Sounds like the frets need doing, as the grit you feel is probably some scratches on them.

    I'm no expert - but I'd mask off the fingerboard, and then use a good fine oiled oilstone to take out those scratches, then give them a polish with some wire wool and or metal polish - such as brasso.

    I'm sure an expert will be along in a minute!

  3. that makes more sense, now I have to figure out which wood is used for more of a Rock sound.

    What kind of 'rock sound'?

    Screaming Les Paul sound - mahogany with humbucker pickups.

    Super-strats (pointy ibanez etc (shudder :D ) Maples and alder I'd have thought.

    You sound like youwant high-output pickups.. there are many here better suited to advise on these than I - my Fenders are pretty traditional. Even though I changed the pickups, I didn't go for the ultra-high output kinds.

  4. In mine I keep a lighting controller, Minidisk recorder and a TC Electronics multifx.

    In the future, I aim to get a bigger one so I can add a stereo power amp. But it's mostly PA orientated, rather than guitar. Neither my guitar amp nor my Pod fit a rack.

  5. Yeah!

    The structure and density of the wood will affect how the vibrations travel through it.

    Therefore, as TR says, because ultimately the strings are in contact with the wood, this will have an effect on how the string vibrates - eg if it dies away quickly because vibration is absorbed almost totally, or sustains or rings for a long time because the wood is dense and uniform in structure.

    There are then tradeoffs in what wood you'd use - weight being an obvious one, but also tone, the size and therefore playablilty of the neck for you, and so on.

    Guitarists are a pretty conservative bunch - I believe most of us find a look or sound we like, and pretty well stick with it.

    So if we like a Les Paul type of sound, we'd go for mahogany neck/body with a maple top because that's the wood that helps get that sound (as well as pickups).

    Hope that helps a bit...

  6. neckblankandLP.jpg

    OK. First cuts made today. Have reduced a lovely 40 year-old mahogany shelf to two lovely neck-through blanks. One I've squared off and started marking up, the other is for 'next time'.

    Pretty much have all my components now, apart from tuners, P/U switch and maybe a truss rod cover.

    I've decided to go against using the carbon fibre rods, as this is to be a two piece neck - the wood is really settled and dense, so I don't see any need to cut it further and then re-glue to make a laminated neck. If I turn out to be wrong, I've more of the same wood so the situation would (wood) be retrievable as far as the guitar is concerned. Using a Stew-Mac hot rod, as this curved channel business looks far too complicated for my first whole build - and first neck.

    I intend putting a quilt top on the instrument, finished with tru-oil, and the inlay will be as above - paua abalone 'v's on a LP scale rosewood fretboard.

    Matched pair of Gibson Pickups, with a thru-body string V tailpiece and Gibson ABR-1 bridge. This may need recessing - not certain as yet.

    I may fit either Graph-Tech or Baggs piezo bridge to the ABR later - so I've bought one of the 4 pots in a pull-switch type, so I can hook the acoustic sound in when I want.

  7. I don't know much about thrus rod, but i know quite a bit on machine shop, and thinverting the rod won't change the way it gets tightened.  the screw will be in the same position, tighten CW and loosen CCW, the only way to change this is by inverting the threads on the screw.

    Please if I'm wrong let me know because like I had said before, I'm here ot learn. I'm new to guitar build but I got wood working and machinist experience, so I might be able to trade off some knowledge.

    Wes is correct in this, because this is a double action truss rod - it has two rods in opposition to each other, so the neck can be made to 'move' in either direction.

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