fizzy_elephant

i've used pro desktop and pro engineer as modelling and designing tools. To "build" in 3d takes a little time and practise but its nice to be able to see what the finished product could look like, apply paint effects etc to it and generally mess around and see whats possible.

useful for those who wish to use a CNC to rout out parts. (not for the short of $$$ though).

i dont have any personal experience with it, however from what this website says:

persimmon

It is simply white ebony. Same properties etc.

Far as i can see it should work fine.

- Like the idea of using only local woods. Nice touch.

The Ibanez EDB series basses feature a body made from a Luthite. It is very solid and dense, yet not real heavy in weight. The overall tone is similar to maple

Ibanez EDB600GP 4 string Bass:

slow beat

wow... you ever heard jaco? that guy (/god) plays the bass like its an instrument. fast doesnt even nearly cover it.

point taken about strengthening up fingers tho.

i tend to go at composition from two directions..

sometimes i can pick something out of the air (often by chance... fingers falling on the wrong notes etc.)

sometimes i have to sit down and think about different techniques. Just like what Jehle was saying, thinking from a different angle.

recently i've taken to trying to write parts for the wrong instruments.. for instance.. using drumming sticking patterns for different instruments to get some funky rhythms.

one of the guys that amazes me the most from a compositional standpoint is messaien. he created his music from a really mathematical standpoint. making up scales of repeating patterns of tones and semitones, and using anagramatical rhythms (same forward and backward). most people cant listen to it at first (me included) but if you know what he was doing, the guy is a genius.

hope any of that makes sense to someone

just found this, thought someone might be interested:

carbon fibre fingerboard...

in fact, that project appears to be a whole carbon fibre guitar

its all there on a dutch website. http://www.futuracomposites.nl/students/gitaar.htm

looks beautiful to me

im yet to learn guitar (i know about 3 chords..... including bar chords )

however,

bass - 14

Saxes - 13

Clarinet - 7

Piano - 4

next on the list >> guitar (just as soon as i've built one)

note: double bass coming soon

phenolic refers to the chemical structure. A ring structure with side chains (like carbon fibre) is refered to as phenolic. Its exactly this ring structure that gives it a huge tensile strength and low weight.

however, on its own, carbon fibre isnt hard, its the resin that does all of that.

you can even increase the shock absorption of carbon fibre (which is normally very low) by interweaving it with something like kevlar. this stops the material shattering.

Ebanol, from what i understand, can be used as a material for guitars (i think universal jems sells ebanol nuts).

it can also be used as a detergent.

rumour is it smells nice

wow..

that is expensive

£500 necks and the like

Think everything through...

I learnt this the hard way for this finish.

<note which way the flames point >

d'oh

my "budget" MDF bass...

It works and has been for about 3 years now with no ripping, tearing or other fault.

However, it is a budget build, cheap as can be done. It works, and is playable, but i wouldnt so much advise an MDF body. Its that and the pickup that i'd like to change the most for a next project.

its actually the resin that gives the carbon fibre its hardness. theoretically with the right resin it could all work out nicely. you can also buy carbon fibre thats been autoclaved, (heated and squashed) that sets really hard with the resin.

a friend of mine's dad owns a carbon fibre manufacturing plant that make all sorts of tools and implements, like bikes and fishing rods. im sure that you could get a rod prepared in the right way to withstand the wear.

thanks for the input.

sounds like its not really worth bothering with.

think i'll stick to using the soldering gun on the electronics

thanks again

hows that look to everyone now?

probably would have been easier to do it on paint or something. surprisingly difficult to modify drawings like that to make them look right.... the spacing gets messed up.

"

BACK OF BODY                                     FRONT OF BODY

      

     |------------_________

  X  |                      -----------_____ angle here

     |____________________________________

     |                                    |

  Y  |              Place body here       |

     |____________________________________|

                               L

"

perhaps easier to understand with the drawing.

use a set length L and height Y (which is the height of the jig at the front) then use the formula:

tan <angle> multiplied by L = X

X being the height above Y for the back of the jig

Note: tan is the button on a scientific calculator saying tan.

that should give you the correct height for the jig to get a specific angle

in fact...

i just found one of MGKBass' projects on the forum with a great pic with dimensions

link

try that one

i think a PRS body is

405mm x 325mm x 45mm

(someone please correct me if im wrong)

do you have a style in mind?

Im not sure anyone was particularly interested anyway. lol.

I can explain it better if anyone wants to know.

nuts...

the drawing screwed up

forget that one then

sorry

If you were going for a jig like Myka's, i put together a little calculation for simplicities sake so that you dont need to mess around judging angles:

As a side note, im hoping this will work to my benefit aswell when i come to angling the neck. If anyone sees any mistakes please point them out.

(hope this looks ok)

BACK OF BODY FRONT OF BODY

____________

| ----------------_____________

X | --------------_________ angle here

|___________________________________________________________

| |

Y | Place body here |

|___________________________________________________________|

L

Y is the height you have of wood at the front of the body supporting the top (probably around the height of the guitar)

X is the extra height at the back of jig

L is the length of the jig

put the angle you want into the formula:

tan <angle> x L = X

for a 3 degree angle for example, with a 1m long jig this works out to 5cm heigher at the back than the front.

i.e. not very much.

im sure you dont need to be as accurate, its just to give you an idea. i could see myself overestimating it and ending up with like a 10 degree angled neck

I remember hearing/reading (cant remember where) about a simple to do metal inlay, good for side markers, made by filling the inlay cavity with pieces of solder and then heating.

I was wondering if anyone had tried it and what the results were.

Is it as easy as it sounds or do you end up with some slightly singed wood for your troubles?

Price and quality of guitar usually go hand in hand.

I built a BUDGET bass guitar, probably cost no more than GB£60 (about $100) in total, but you really get what you pay for. I used tools in school which shed that cost aside. For what i payed, im quite happy with the results, though if i had to do it again i wouldnt use MDF for the body thats for sure

The most expensive thing for that project worked out to be the hardware, but if you shop around you can pick up some low priced gear.

Im just starting out on a guitar project myself now. Something i learned is that hardwoods dont have to cost a fortune. If you go to the right places you can amaze yourself how cheap they can be. I've seen great quality wood go on e-bay for good prices. I personally picked up my wood from a local furnature builders. I bought everything i need from them (excluding a fingerboard) for £20 ($35) and that included an upright bass neck blank and fingerboard

I think the lesson here is to shop around

check this out for an SG

hi all,

i was surfing the net when i came across this site and thought i'd share:

Link

Its really for upright bass pickups, but im sure there are other possibilities.