Bmth Builder

You fret before gluing it to the neck? Doesnt it back bow like crazy?

love it. I would buy one.

maybe he will 'duracell' it!!!!

ahahaha

Love it, looks awesome, the tops very sleek, the only thing I dont like is the seemingly random placement of the LEDs...

Stunning guitar, love it!

People dont generally start topics to talk about prices btw, its mostly done in private.

He'll prob chime in so I dont want to go into details, but from what I gather

you are looking at may be a 2 year waiting list, and it should be $2000AUS and upwards I imagine. ($5000AUS is a bit extreme unless you wanted a lot of really crazy specs).

Clips?

Should have a super bright tone I would have thought?

Although finding a peice big enough for an entire guitar is going to be pretty difficult.

^ Yeah but I like the idea of 1 peice bodies (or as close as I can get in this case) I'de rather a bridge was mounted in one peice of wood than two seperate peices, not that the tone difference is audible anyway...

Although two peices are probably more stable on the warp front.

Hey

If a body is a two peice, the glue line generally lies in the middle and acts as a center line,

but if say I have a peice of wood thats nearly big enough for a one peice but not quite, can I just glue peices on the out edges to make up the width, like how people glue 'ears' onto necks to make the headstock wide enough.

Like so

(obviously I know I can do it, but I just wanner check whether any one has or not, I mean there isnt really any stress on the outer most parts of a guitar so its not like it would snap off or anything)

Cheers

Hey I know Paduk is said to fade over time, but do any of the other more crazy coloured woods do the same? Purple Heart, bloody wood especially etc? Is all fading caused by UV?

Cheers

Something I have never understood is fretleveling,

Most people do it with a file, but how do you account for the radius in the frets when using a file? Do you just go back and forth with the strings until one bit of the radius is all leveled and then move over a little bit and do the same until you have connected all the dots across the frets?

I would have thought using a radius block was a much better method for keeping everything uniform?

^ springy? I would imagine hard and dence would be quite good for a neck, quite stable?

Can any one else come in on this? Seem to have a for and against so far

Cheers

Hey I was just wondering if flamed/curly ash could be used as a neck? I'm thinking a couple of peices laminated together for stability?

Cheers

So if I was to lacquer the ebony as well, I would say sand everything to 240 ( as 320 might be a tad high) and then mask off everyfret on the surface of the fretboard, so that the edge is all still showing?

Will it react with the fret ends at all? like shrink round them over time and crack or something?

Well the hardest part will be getting it to bend over the arm contour I imagine, PG has various tutorials to help in this subject,

Heres a veneer adding tutorial

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/veneer.htm

and a stain adding tutorial

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/3d.htm

Hey just a few odd questions

After I have finished sealing the fret ends with CA I imagine its a good idea to run a sanding block down the side of the fretboard and smooth it all out up to the same grit as what im finishing the neck on? Say 320?

and should I include the side of the fretboard in the finishing (satin lacquer)? or do I mask it off and leave it plain? Its ebony...

I am going to paint the front of the headstock to match the body, to get a nice crisp line between the painted top and the natural sides, after its dry (and cleared?) should I run a razor blade or cabinet scraper or sanding block down the natural sides to give it a lil more edge?

Would removing the tree help?

String trees/retainer bars make no difference to the action of a locking nut.

A in 27" or 28" should be fine, I use a low B on a .54 string on my 7 string thats 27" and its good, so A and heavier strings will be fine, I cant think of any issues you would have with using a trem and a baritone scale (many baritone scales have them, including mine) you just need more/stronger springs on the back to balance it.

Have you thought about going to 7 or 8 stringed guitars? If you want to be able to play the stuff on 'regular guitar' as well as have that low end then it might be something to look into, as you can keep them in standard tuning and not have to move up the neck to play the same stuff.

Well the strings are getting further apart, so if the taper is getting further from the strings as well, its going to get harder and harder to play low strings as you go up the neck.

One reason to keep the taper parallel to the E/e strings

From an aesthetics point of view, I would laminate it with a contrasting colour, like poplar / wenge / poplar or something

if you really want the maple you could go poplar / ebony veneer / maple / ebony veneer / poplar

I just dont like same colour woods lamed together, but thats just me.

When I designed my neck for my guitar I drew the bridge and nut and E - e string spacing and connected the dots to get the taper of the strings, added a couple of mm either side and had the taper of the fretboard, and continued that taper for the entire neck, and neck pocket.

I just imagined thats how its done, and that the strings should always be parrallel to the fretboard edge, but I saw a pic of a bass where this is not the case, there definatly seems to be a bigger space between the string and the f/b at the 24th fret than at the 1st

so did I over complicate, or did I do it properly? How do you do it?

I thought I read somewhere to use titebond? Wouldnt pulling the frets one day be made harder if they were glued in with CA?

Hey I was wondering how to file the fret ends flush to the fingerboard end with out catching the wood at all?

After they're flush I was then going to bevel the edge, was wondering if they're was any advantage to beveling before the end is fully flush?

One its all flush I should seal the ends with titebond and saw dust (its an ebony board and I've plenty of ebony dust to make the glue black) and then wipe off the excess?

Cheers

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Template...18.html#details

That should help

I prefer the black knobs

very nice, snot green, guitar

thanks for the input, but i'm set on this design

I wasnt meaning for you to change it lol as it matches the top horn nicely, its just something I noticed when I looked at the design