Bmth Builder

Hey pete non of those image links worked for me :S

I have a question about neck throughs with 1 or 2 hollow wings (sorry to hi jack)

but does the neck through remain solid? Or do you drill like horizontal chambers through the neck or anything (that may sound silly I dunno)

Hey I started this thread on UG and got zilch replies, and I've seen a few piezo loaded guitars knocking about on here so I thought I'de ask (and this seems the appropriate section)

so any way,

Can any one recommend me some companies that make Piezo Systems? In either TOM or hard tail format, with all the drivers etc.

I only know of graph tech, and although their stuff sounds pretty good I'de like to know if there are any more quality products out on the market.

I know Stew Mac sells graph tech and L.R Baggs (though I have not heard their product) Can people recommend others? I am sure there are others.

(May I also point out Stew Mac is MILES cheaper than Graph Tech is offering their OWN PRODUCT!!!) (This is probably down to that SM can shift more stock but it still doesn't make sense)

Cheers

Some people like the fret before carving. I think its a bad idea... but that's just me.

Can you elaborate why you think thats a bad idea?

Thanks for all the responces All slightly differnt methods, I guess there is no set in stone correct way to do things.

Didnt they sell off all their equipment?

Hey all,

I read on here about installing frets causing a back bow in the FB and neck. My neck is currently being built and is just a block of 3 lams atm, so should I glue on the fret board, cut the sides to size, fret it, and then cut the back to size and shape.

Or cut the back before I fret it?

I'm just thinking that if I fret it while its still a solid block it is less likly to bow under fretting.

Cheers

For strength of joint, one would assume a neck plate would be strongest, because all 4 screws are tightened to a plate that pushes down evenly over the whole area between the screws, thus pushing down a larger area than just individual string sockets. Though I may be wrong

Hey I was wondering if there was any where in the UK (or Europe at a push) that stocks and distributes Stew Mac tools.

I am looking in to getting some for a build I want to start but am very wary of shipping from the US (plus costs get high)

The Tools I want to get hold of are,

Fret slotting miter box and templates (at least 25.5" to get started with)

It might even be worth getting the full arbor press fret system? (I figure its worth getting everything right even if its only for one or two builds)

Fret press caul and inserts (at least 12" to start with)

Plus things like truss rod router bits, radius blocks etc.

Also if any one can recommend any of the Stew Mac (or other wise) tools, and where to get them that would be great! Or any one doesent need their tools any more and could sell second hand?

Cheers!

My GUESS would be thats its not actually the type of swirl your talking about at all, its just a name they have given to the paint job, and the paint job is just a air brushed on design, or something else of that nature.

Are people still interested in sharing US shipping costs? I will need to make an order soon enough.

Thing is I only need some gold fret wire from LMI, but a fair bit from Stew Mac.

^ Could you take pictures of it? I would really like to see it worked

Sorry I will be more precise.

The swirl I am talking about is a dip swirl, where the guitar is submersed in water and paint floating on the water affixes its self to the already base coated body, seen here,

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/swirled.htm

Fede Herc the company I was talkin about has a great gallery which will kinda show you what I mean by swirl paint seen here, (lots of pics)

http://www.fededesigns.com/guitarswirls.cfm

Now what Jackson calls erie swirl isnt actualy the same painting technique, that looks more like some one has airbrushed the design onto the entire body.

I should also state that I want the neck to be natural, so there would have to be a clear line where the swirl body stops and the neck begins.

Title says it all, can you swirl a neck through with out getting any on the neck its self, careful masking the key? or just not possible?

I know that Herc only offer swirls on bolt ons, may be they just cant be bothered with the hassle of priming and swirling just the body area, or may be they know not to try lol...

Cheers

I lil addtional extra info I posted below

The swirl I am talking about is a dip swirl, where the guitar is submersed in water and paint floating on the water affixes its self to the already base coated body, seen here,

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/swirled.htm

Fede Herc the company I was talkin about has a great gallery which will kinda show you what I mean by swirl paint seen here, (lots of pics)

http://www.fededesigns.com/guitarswirls.cfm

I should also state that I want the neck to be natural, so there would have to be a clear line where the swirl body stops and the neck begins.

Could I still get away with no neck angle? The TOM would probably have to be recessed a fair bit in comparison to a bolt on where the neck tends to protrude a bit more + fb

if you could split that in the middle, and glue the outer edges together, that would work just fine. you`ll end up with a 1/4sawn body blank.

I messaged him to ask him what it was and he replied Brazilian, so surely if it is not thats breaking the rules.

Is there any way I can get it tested for the family of mahogany?

^ I was just thinking that, its a real nice idea to eliminate control cavities (though to be fair the covers arnt that much of an eye sore) the only thing I can thing of is that you would to poke the electronics through the pickup routes, and then use some kind of lever to position them into the hole in the top and then screw the washers and nuts and then knobs on.

Brazillian.

Heres the link, the first line of description under the pictures states that it is kiln dried, but I will message him to find out the extent of the drying.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...N:IT&ih=022

and heres parts of one of the messages from him, he is aware of the kilning process, may be he just worded it wrong.

My father in law who is a joiner said the wood was of inferior quality.I just wanted to know if anyone else had the same problem as I did or was I just unlucky.The thing is if he is selling a lot of this wood and it's splitting or warping then he's obviously not going through the kiln drying process properly.Guitar wood needs to be dried over a couple of years....not a week or so...do you see what I mean.

I purchased a mahogany body blank on ebay for a first build (I can link you to it if thats allowed). It has been sitting uncut in my garage (in a controlled atmosphere) since the 11th of Jan at least.

but I recently got a email from some one else who also bought 2 blanks from the same ebayer, but both his split and warped when he cut them because the wood was of inferior quality. Now that puts me in a bit of a pickle because I cant get a refund, but it is uncut, is there any way of telling whether it will be rendered useless as soon as I cut it? Or should I just go for it and hope?

Thanks

I also noticed over time, that a smaller control cavity, makes the lower wing vibrate a little bit less. The tap tone has less sustain. Harmonics on higher strings are harder to get.

Are you saying that a smaller cavity will produce less sustain and harmonics? So infact it would be benificial to route a large cavity? I would have thought it would be the other way around...

I am also looking for gold fret wire, I googles the bass center and couldnt find it on their website.

Is there any where else in the UK that sales gold guitar fret wire? Preferably jumbo, or at least tall,

Wormoth only has one size. LMI has a few, but still oversees.

I recently ordered from stew mac, and the shipping is actualy very cheap (about a fiver, or a tenner depending on how quick you want it for about £40 worth of stuff)

the only problem is the customs, they caught my package and charged me £15 just to import it, which was really anoying.

I think if you get enough stuff it would still work out cheaper, but sharing the shipping cost would be a really handy option.