Bmth Builder

I have heard they are pretty good for the money, but no personal experience.

^ + 1 I bought my arbor press within the UK for about £30 and drilled a hole in the shaft to accept the stu mac tool, hole was a snug fit so no need for a set screw. Great tool.

As some one said above, once you get over 600 + you should be wet sanding?

So should you always wet and at 600 + ? Is there ever any reason not to? I didnt when I went to 2000 on a fretboard, should have I done?

Hey I was wondering what the steepest angle you could use on a scarf joint before loosing too much strength, e.g as close to a butt joint as possible?

Cheers

Neil

I heard it was best to use diamond files to work with stainless steel frets?

Its been a fleeting intrest of mine to want to build my self a custom guitar one day, mainly because in the beginning I was naive enoiugh to think building could be cheaper than buying lol

but my interest was peaked by a gallery over at ultimate guitars guitar building and customising section, where there was some pretty cool guitars made by people but I guess what threw me over the edge was a thread there 'callum barrows double neck buid' if any of you know it, the kid is younger than me, and he has made his most amazing first build, when I saw that I really started looking into building my own.

Now I am hooked and can reel off a list of a least 7 guitars I want to build

Really nice work, love the body carve and shape although I dont like the horns

This is just amazing!

3" is plenty for a angled headstock

Very nice guitar!

Personally, that headstock doesnt fit the guitar, and the neck joint is too square, AANJ FTW!!! otherwise great

I read something somewhere (lol vague I know) where some one had installed a 6 string pup into a 7 string to see what would happen, and basically even though the 7th string wasnt any where near the pole peice, it could still be picked up quite easily. I imagine the quality wasnt near that of a dedicated 7 string pup but it just goes to show that the pole peices dont need to be exactly over the strings at all.

I prefer the look of the actual metal bridges on multiscales, as opposed to a saddle screwed to a bit of wood.

Needless to say, he took a whole cheek off.

Would a 15mm string spacing be that bad to play?

I dont really like the look of saddles just screwed to a bass board, ala black machine conklin etc I much prefer the whole single bidge thing, looks really classy, but expensive

Hey I'm looking for individual bridges for a multiscale, problem is to get them from some where like ABM is £20/30 per bridge, or I can get them off ebay for £20/30 for the entire set, so its hard for me to justify spending so much for ABM (when you think I want to make an 8 string, thats a lot of money lol)

Normally I wont use no name hardware, chinese import stuff etc (for example I have been looking for ages to get a tonepos TOM 7 string bridge into the UK as opposed to just getting one off ebay for half the price) but this time I'm considering it, I was just wondering if any one is strictly quality components or if people just get the stuff off of ebay because its cheap?

The stuff I have found is

Here

Here 2

Problem is I want to make a guitar, and those are bass bridges, thats why I have only found two companies that sell the through body string bridges as the ball ends might not fit in the top load.

I'm also worried if the sadde will be two wide, will that be much of a problem for my high strings not seating in the center, moving around etc?

They say they are intonatable and height adjustable but I dont know how much room they have, so thats another worry.

So any way, in a round about rambling way, do you think that hardware will be ok?

Cheers

Neil

Hey I'm looking for a Seymour Duncan JB / Jazz set with gold covers, covers must be in good condition and plenty of lead.

I live in the UK but will import if shipping isnt too bad.

Cheers

Neil

Thats incredible, very nice

At least if it went off when you were cutting wood for a guitar you would know it wasnt dry enough, its saving you the pain of it warping once the builds complete

Hey would the oily wood actually cause the lams not to glue properly?

I ordered that book ages ago from Alibris, and they charged me and then told me it was out of stock and refunded me (STEALING 1P FROM ME IN THE PROCESS!!!)

So I'm probably going to order it tonight, I'm sick of not knowing what the f**k any one is ever on about when they talk about finishing lol

Is the 2nd edition the latest edition?

This

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/515H...RHL._SS500_.jpg

Hey I dont know if any one has brought this up but I havent really read this thread, 4 pages of rather long posts about plywood doesnt exactly get my pants wet you know? lol

Whether you can build a guitar out of it and come out with something thats good to your ears asside (although I think kpcrash has proved its possible?) The problem with plywood guitars is not that they're plywood and automatically means they sound ****, its that generally they are the bottom of the range guitars, rolled off the production lines in China as many and as quickly as possible, with really crappy parts and no care and attention given to making them, resulting in a poorly playing guitar and in turn badly sounding one, being why its quite easy to associate plywood with being a rubbish guitar.

^ Thats would be damn cool!

Jesus Christ! Cant believe he put his finger in there lol with the side on view it really didnt look like his finger ever touched the blade, I guess he was being really cautious as to move it in very slowly to minimise damage to himself, but I mean even if you weren't being that careful, looks like you will only come away with a cut!

Does it matter what grits I use?

Say if the neck is sanded to 80 grit, can I seal the wenge and sand it back at 80 grit and keep filling and sanding back at 80 and then bring it up to 320 for the clear coat?

Because even IMAGINING playing standard tuning on a 28" scale is painful.