Jacques Le Dick

It looks really clean & crisp. Nice job.

For the P-90 switch, why not just use a push/pull pot for an on-off?

Cheers!

Ahaaaaa that would be much better than a extra switch!

1x Stain

2x Stain

Sprayed with KTM-9

I'm still working on the Electronics... In between the two Humbuckers I've got a hidden P90 under the scratch plate. Don't tell anyone

Still thinking what to do, or use a on and off switch to "activate" the P90 or use this switch ... any tips anyone.

I love the vibrola used it in combination with a "rollerbrige" and it sounds great!

The only thing I would like to do is bend the vibrato arm so it's not so close to the instrument's body. Did any of you ever bend a arm like this before?

Headstock shot

Still got some work to do hope to get it ready next week...

Hi All! Been working on a V shaped one (my take on it...) Tried to make it as "Classy" as possible.

Still got some work to do on the wiring but that's for later some Construction pics...

The body cut out with bandsaw

Building of the neck (scale 24.9")

12" fingerboard radius

neck shaped

Guitar ready to stain

is that blood I see?

beautiful work

Cheers All! Aye I was to lazy to turn the top, wanted to remove some wood fast by holding the chisel in my left hand and holding the top down with my right.

I knew it was gonna happen... but still went for it. So planted the chisel in my right index finger... after doing that I went to the hospital and they gave me 3 stitches and a kiss from the nurse (I wish, she was well kinky ...

Daft! They told me in school over 15 year ago and I know now why you ALWAYS have to hold the chisel with both hands .

Dont worry I've sanded the blood stains out and the finger is all fine.

Side pic:

Hmmmmm F-hole ore not...

Hey fantastic I was playing with the idea to build a semi hollowbody V but went for a solidbody first.

I might do a hollowbody next time

I like the concept and choice of wood, mega!

Also wondering if you used bracing?

Respect!

Hiya All!

Been hanging around here quite some time here, love this forum and splendid work I see here. Respect!

A few weeks ago I started on a prototype and thought why not share it with you.

Here we go:

Specs:

Body Type: Hollow Body

Body Wood: Carved Book matched AAA European Maple Top / Book matched Back AAA European Maple / Birdseye maple side's/ Spruce bracing

Scale Length: 24.9"

Neck Joint: Set-in

Neck Wood: Mahogany

Fretboard: Rosewood / Pearl Block Inlay or dots (not sure yet)

Neck Shape: C

Frets: 21 Modern Jumbo (Highest quality 18% nickel-silver fretwire)

Nut Width:42 mm

Fretboard radius: 12” / 304.8 mm

Bridge: Roller bridge on Ebony base

Pickup Bridge: TV Jones Super'Tron

Pickup Neck: TV Jones Super'Tron

Controls: Volume / Volume / Tone

Pickup Selector: 3 way

Tuners: Kluson Tulip Chrome

Hardware Color: Chrome

Finish: KTM-9

Still thinking if I'm gonna put a F-Hole in (one)... as it is a hollow body made out of solid wood (not plywood) I'm afraid if I do so I'll have a feedback problem when playing on louder volumes. What do you think?

Here are some pics:

Bracing

Binding

Top inner view

Check Swirl Tip

Do you add any additional side braces (spruce, hardwood, bias tape and HHG or what have you) to limit and reduce potential cracking? With 5 mm thick top and back, do you brace the top and back along the center blocks sides to reduce stress risers and potential cracking? I love to use reverse kerf also , do you have any tips for adding relief cuts or bending tips when placing it around the tight curve of the horn?

Peace,Rich

additional side braces :Nope none of those.

I just 'overbend' the curve of the horn, place it in the the mold and clamb it down for an hour or so. Ceep it hot when bending that tricky area

This is a picture of the inside of the body just before the top goos on

Very cool. I bet a few tips on bending that tight radius (thickness of the sides, are you thinning more in the tight bend area, are you using pipe of blankets and side forms and so forth) would be much appreciated by the guys that want to give this style a try. Top and or back thickness tips, braced or n, flat or some radius? The work looks nice and clean

Rich

Hiya, Yep to bend that tight radius I thin down the area to 1.5mm (sorry I use millimeters/I'm belgian/European) The rest of the sides are 1.8 à 2.5mm depending on the wood. I use a stewmac bending iron. With a sponge I apply water on the sides just before bending them. I don't soke them in water overnight! The trick is to select good bending maple for the sides, sorry it's a hard one to explain. Some maple bends better than the other. Time is your friend when bending these tight radius tele sides... Set the Iron not to hot or you burn the wood and it will crack!!!

I use Reverse kerfed lining to give the sides some more strength. I glue some extra wood inside the sides where the Strap Button screw will come, so the screw has some grip to take the weight of the body.

Back and Top are just flat and are 5mm thick. Unbraced.

The middle beam is Movengue (tropical wood) 100mm wide. Total thickness of the body is 55mm (10mm thicker than a standard tele)

Any more questions? Just fire.

Best,

J.L.D.

Fantastic! Great design, Respect.

I'm with Perry. I think that design is where I've been heading for years, I think it's just time to build the molds and bend some sides!

I have built some Teles with less wood down the middle than that one, but it's ridiculous to keep buying so much body wood only to carve 3/4 of it away in the end...I needed to see this!

Hollowbody Teles rock!

Exactly why I'm building in this style.

Hiya all,

I'm new here. Nice to see so many builders on the forum, respect!

15 year ago I studdied guitarbuilding in Boom/Belgium. After my studdies I started touring as a guitar tech. what I still do. When I'm not touring I build guitars.

Here are some pictures of some Semi Hollow Body tele style guitars I've builded. Hope you like them...

Sides & middle beam

The top & binding

Finish/snakewood binding

Maple one with bigsby