Twoods196

Where are you located? US, UK, Canada, etc?

US...TN

Hey guys, i got a B.C Rich Exotic Classic with Spalted top, Neck Thru Design. Wanting to trade for a good Amp or sale it. Perferably Just trade for good amp. If interested let me know and I can send pics or I will post some pics later tonight.

To me the texas special have a good gain sound also...but as he said its gonna be hard to get every sound you want.

I just got done doing something similar....redid a MIM Strat I put Texas Special Pickups in it and I love them. Im sure there are other pickups out there that will give you the same sound as the Texas SPecials or even better. I paid around 140 for all three on ebay shipped. In bridge position they have a really good clean sound for playing classic rock. if you go to the the next swtich up the bridge/neck it has a amazing blues sound. If tuned right can sound just like SRV's Number One. So if you like the sound of Numbers Ones I recomend the Texas Strats.

If you cant find one you could get a straight on picture of one and blow it up in photoshop to the correct size and print it out and have a template. I did something similar like this with my Number One Build. Found a stratocaster outline the got a straighton view of srv number one and enlarged to match the layout then selected the layer the template was on and traced out all the little nicks and dings etc.....then deleted the top layer and have a good template of number one scratchs mark lines etc....should work for your situation.....and if its bigger then one sheet of paper set your printer settings to poster settings.

Is this the one you need?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Prewired-SSS-WBW-Pickg...1QQcmdZViewItem

A talkbox tut would be awesome. Been wanting one forever and I would rather build it so...YES!

I just looked it over and I can take the string and pick it up out of the nut and barely sit it back on it and it works fine but when i push down on it it pops back in the nut hole....like kinda of a popping in like the top of the groove is too small....So do you think i need to file a little out of it?

Have you checked the nut slot, saddle breaking edge or pickup heights?

Yeh, the pickup height is correct. The but slot is kinda small what do I need to look at on it...im sure it has something to do with the nut know because i can hold it on down on fret 1 and it rings perfect...but open it dies out quickly.....so its something to do with the nut...it doesnt look like it sitting it the nut that good

Just got done building a strat and having a few little problems. The 1st string doesnt have much substain....like its bairly touching something I have tried adjusting the action and doesnt help it any. Could it be possbile the neck is slighlty crooked and causing it to do this? Also im wanting to refinish the neck and want it to be a high gloss but slick....would Tru-Oil be good for this or no? its a Maple Neck with Pau Ferro Fingerboard.

Your not talking about Orange Peel are you?

Hi.

I stained the front back & sides with the same water soluble dye, sealed top back & sides with the same shellac before spraying with StewMac Colortone water based lacuer sing a Wagner W550.

When I sprayed - all at the same time - the back & sides turned out basically OK (with a run or two),...but the front turned out to have a sort of 'cracked' appearance or like a spider web patten or snake scales... I don't think I dd anything different...

I've sanded it all back, but I want to avoid a repetition.

Please shed some light on this if you're able...

Thanks,

Rob

First question, how long from the time you put shellac on until you sprayed lacquer? Did you sand before the lacquer coat? Next how thick was the shellac and what type? Waxed or dewaxed shellac. What was the temp and humidity when you sprayed and you said that you had runs? So how thick was the lacquer coat? So many variables that could cause your problem.

MK

Not suppose to be a saga kit but guy I got it from could have gotten it from a saga kit, but yes its a very thin venneer and bublbes easly. I just used shellac to seal it and that worked good.

Thats looks like a Saga kit if it came that way, there's a few threads here regarding them and how the 'top' was only a thin paper veneer. If thats the case go easy with any sanding. -Vinny

Thanks both of you. I Have read you can use Laquer as a sealer? I have a few cans of it is the reason im asking...would save me some time.

I did try the search function and most of prep stuff im coming up with is showing for paint a solid color. I wanting a natural look but having problems with grain and stuff...Just needed to know if I need to sand,seal,then dye...

try searching. there is plenty of info. no one is just going to tell you and give you specific info thats already on here.

Could someone tell me what steps i should take to prep this body for a red mohagany dye then clear cloat? Thanks

Flame Top Malple Body with basswood back

Found the problem. The wire that goes from the solder points to where it starts to spool is broken. Can only find one side of it...so guess its a RMA.

No, it looks good all wires neat and everything but the middle one just doesnt work. I can hook the mexican one back up and it works fine. So was just wondering about the reverse polarity.

I got a set of fender custom shop texas special pickups and the middle bridge doesnt work...I posted about this awhile back but never got anywhere with it. Did some reading tonight and it says te middle pickup is reverse polarity...does it still hook up the same? or am I suppose to cross the wires

I Paint cars and this may be diffrent than cars but we never wet sand clear coats between coats and If we would have it def. wouldnt be with 600G. At the least 1000g or 1500G Wet. We apply all coats of clear then wet sand with 1500g until all orange peel is gone then buff at 3000rpm with a 3m 3in1 Compound.

I wouldn't be using a stain in the first place, since common stains typically contain a sealer amongst other non-useful things when all you want out of it is color. I've tried a few minwax sealer stains and they're definitely not what you need to be using for guitar finishing. What I would recommend using is a water soluble powder dye or something similar that you can mix yourself and test until you get the color right. It's very simple to do and will save you a lot of time from testing multiple products you will never use again.

Or just tint the laquer / poly coat when spraying the finish, that's usually the best route to take!

I dyed the wood today and it still has the grain pits in it...what should iuse to get rid of them? Thansks

Thanks for the info. If it is bad and I take it back I might just get a refund. Any recomendations on a good type to get? I want a good Mellow sound like the pickups in the SRV. Thanks!

I purchased some Fender Custom Texas Special pickups for my strat and installed them and for some reason the middle pickup isnt working when i put he selector in the middle nothing comes out. Only all the way down and all the way up. Could it bad pickups or is there a diffrent way to install Texas Specials. I installed them to the same points the old ones where soldered too.

Not sure if there is a big diffrence but I paint cars etc...and our booth has two squrrell cages in it. One is hooked into pipes that go around the upper ceiling with holes in it...and one is hooked up to pipes that go around the base of the floor. The fan would be constantly blowing so you wouldnt have to worry about the cold are coming in, only your hot air going out. You could use a fairly large propane heater to get the room hot enough to spray then turn it off an take it out and begin to paint. Havent did much as far wood painting myself but will be soon...fixing to begin on a custom guitar.

A few pics of the bare neck and surrounding finished areas would help us help you.

Ok, Im at work now but will take some pics when I get home. Thanks!

Hello All Im new here and very glad to see such a large community supporting guitar building/reparing. I have a Epiphone Les Paul that was knocked over and the neck broke in half. We followed some online instructions and fixed it and now you cant even tell the break was there. Are problem now is getting it back to the Red Mahogany it was. We went ahead and sanded the whole neck back down to bare wood. I thought I could just Stain it with Red Mahogany stain but apparently not. After sanding through the last layer i noticed the wood got pitted like and fairly rough. So I figured I would try the stain like that...I have applied about 4 coats and its still no where near the darkness it needs to be and is still rough. Could someone please tell me what steps they would take to get it back looking original. Just so you know its a 52 Les Paul Goldtop-Reissue. Thanks!