metalhead6061

This is the guitar in question.

I'm pretty sure it is a photo flame. If anyone can confirm this, it would be much appreciated.

I have a few questions:

1. I'm planning on doing a veneer for the top. (ebony or bubinga most likely). Will the veneer be able to bend over the bevels too? or will I run into problems there?

2. I'm planning on filling in the neck pickup cavity. Will I regret this later down the road if I want to remove the neck? I only ask because it's a set neck.

Thanks

I have an epiphone sg that I did a full scallop on. The scallops are kind of shallow. I was wondering if there's anything I need to do differently when removing a scalloped board.

I know there is a tutorial on the site, just want to make sure I don't mess anything up.

I'll can take pictures if needed.

Thanks.

Ok, so I have an epiphone sg that I'm thinking about scalloping. My only concern is that the trapezoid inlays will be really thin and I will go right through them. Should I be worried about this? I'm not planning for an incredibly deep scallop, only enough to where i can't feel any wood under.

Thanks,

Greg

Thanks dude

I been wanting to use either a schaller 455 bridge or a tune o matic bridge.

But... they have 12 inch radius's. I'm interested in a 15 or 16 inch radius. On the stew mac website it says the you have to shape it to match the fretboard radius; but it doesn't go into detail how to do it. So have any of you done this or know how to do it?

Thanks,

Greg

Oh man. That neck taper calculator is just what I needed. Thanks so much bro!

Well I'm not sure but the nut width will be about 1.9" because I'm building a seven string. And the bridge is 2.496 from string to string. But what I'm not sure about is the space between the edge of the fretboard and the high and low strings.

Ok I know I have seen this question answered before. But I don't remember where I saw it.

So my question is... what is the best method for me to figure out the width of the end of the neck and the space between the high and low strings to the edges of the neck.

I know it depends on bridge width and nut width. But I just want to know how you guys do this and how you recommend doing it.

This is my first project and I want to know every aspect and know how to do it right and I don't want to cut any corners with this guitar.

So maybe some of you luthiers out there will be able to help me.

- Greg

Oh and also what height did you use.

Because I know hipshot makes a .125 and .175

Sorry you already answered that question

Thats a really good idea.

So you did you do a neck a angle for your stealth?

It doesn't look like it. And also, should I leave some of the neck wood under the finger board above the body?

Thanks guys.

So let me see if i have this correct..

I should make basically the parts that would go on the sides of neck wood?

And thanks for the alder idea. That is probably what i want to do.

And also thanks for the tuners link.

I just have one more question though.

If i just eliminate doing a neck angle will my action be messed up? And will it feel weird to play?

-Greg

Ok, here it goes. I'm looking to build a 7 string stealth. I want to keep this guitar very simple and straightforward.

Specs:

neck through (probably maple)

mahogany body

25.5 scale 24 frets

fixed bridge (hipshot or 7 string ToM)

just one emg 707 with one volume nob

idk about the inlays yet

sperzel locking tuners (don't know how i'll get 7 of em)

I have read that it is a good idea to make a pine body first. My question is, how would you go about doing this (assuming that it is a neck through)? Would you include a neck too; or would you just make the whole body?

Any other build suggestions for a beginner would be helpful to.

Thanks in advance for any help.

-Greg

Yes, you are crazy.