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7even X²

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Posts posted by 7even X²

  1. Seams everyone feels oil is the way to go. Since I have never done the Seafin/paraffin finish, what is the major difference between that and say Tung?

    Also to answer the questions

    Yes, its a boat anchor. It weighs enough to convincingly drive fence post for sure. I built it for recording and thankfully not for gigging, so the weight isn't too large a factor.

    The sound is insane. Very defined. The notes really ring out with precision and clarity. The pickups that are in there now, are the weak link. They were popped in because I'm impatient. They wont be staying, I'm winding my own pups for this one in hopes of better complimenting the wood.

    Mike

  2. About 2 years ago I started building this "Strat" copy. I am most of the way there but I blew my back out and just never got around to finishing it. When I started this, I had a clear cut Idea on how it would be finished. I was planing to do a dutch oil treatment. I hate to say it but that is a lot of sanding and I am not sure my back is up to it. I was talking with someone that turned me onto the idea of doing a Seafin Teak Oil finish. If anyone has any other finish options to throw into the hat, I'm open to suggestion.

    I guess I should get on with the stats.

    The Body: East Indian Rosewood. Its back cut for the VS100

    The Neck:

    Neck wood: East Indian Rosewood

    Fretboard: Brazilian Rosewood with MOP inlay.

    Fret wire: 6230 stainless steel

    Nut: graphite

    Machine Heads: Gold Schaller Mini Locking Tuners.

    The Bridge: Gold Gotoh/Wilkinson VS100

    The Pickups: Fender aged-white Samarium Cobalt Noiseless

    The Pickguard: Hand cut smoked acrylic Lexan

    Here is some not-so great photos.

    P1140179.jpg

    P1140180.jpg

    P1140183.jpg

    P1140185.jpg

    I wet the neck down to give you an idea of the wood.

    P1140191.jpg

    Again, and ideas are welcome on the finish. I am avoiding things like NCL because I don't have the equipment or time to learn to shoot NCL. I am moving in a few months and want to finish it before I leave.

    Thanks for looking

    Mike

  3. Ok, I was really hoping to learn more about the UV method but I am not ruling out bleach just yet. I did have a few questions though if anyone can fill in the blanks. What is the method for bleaching wood like this? Do I cut the solution? How is it applied? How long do I leave it on? Etc…

    And I am still really interested in learning more about this UV method and what it entails. I want to pick what I feel I am going to be best at and safest with. So if anyone can help out explaining either and/or both methods, I would really appreciate it. Or if there are some good links to resources.

    Thanks again for all the help so far

  4. Again, I still have the same question, how to lighten it. Without a scrap to test on, I am a bit scared to try bleaching it. Is there any other methods out there other then the bleach and the UV sugestion?

    On the UV bleaching technique, how good would a commercial style metal halide do for that UV idea? I have a 1000w one outside the garage I could bring into the shop and hook up. How controlable is it. Will I be able to see it as it changes it or is it something that takes days?

    Thanks again for all your help and praises!!

    Mike

  5. Thanks...I am sure the photo's don't do it justice.

    GOTM = Guitar o f the month competition here at Project Guitar, see the announcements section to get the idea, just a thought...

    cheers... pete

    Wow, then thanks for the GOTM comment. I take that as very high praise, however in this situation I don’t feel I qualify for or deserve any such thing as I purchased this body and neck instead of cutting this one out myself. I hate to say it though, cutting Rosewood isn’t my idea of fun, I made a rosewood body some 15 years ago and I think it wasted (seriously dulled) ever saw blade in my shop before it was finished. so I have to admit that I would have most likely never made that combo myself. It is damn pretty though.

    Thanks again for the complement. I only hope the end of the project brings as much praise.

    Mike

  6. If your stuck with having to go with the 6 hole vintage, a good option is to Start with a Fender standard vintage trem and add a set of Graphtech saddles. That and when you install the 6 screws, something that helps is to hold the tremolo flat to the body without springs. tighen the outside two screws down until they just touch the surface of the tremolo. The inner screws, tighten until they are about a 16th of an inch above the surface. It makes the Vintage tremolo preform more like a 2 point sytstem. now when you string it up and add your springs installed. having the back of the tremolo set 1/2 inch off the surface of the body in the back when fully tuned.

    In either case you know you can get the cover for either of the two styles. If you go with that and a set of locking tuners, you should never have tuning issues at all once your strings are stretched.

    If you can go with the newer 2 point Fender tremolo. then same information applies, a set of Graphtech saddles and a chrome cover. (or gold if its your scheme) and a set of locking tuners. You should never have a problem.

    I know you say your looking for a non fender tremolo, but if you make the changes I talked about, it will not have tuning issues. I have a half dozen strats sitting here now. They all stay in tune.

    Hope that helps some

    Mike

  7. Nope, you hit the nail on the head. You had one dead set of strings. I have bought boomers before and had the same issue you seen.

    As for anything to double check on the guitar? If you changed the strings gauge at all, you'll need to look at the nut grooves as well as the tension on the neck. If you had heavier strings on it to start with, then the nut has larger grooves and the neck is set to compensate for the string tension difference.

    Hope that helps some

  8. Here is the difference between the body when it was purchased and now.(2nd picture) For the neck, look at my original picture of it in my first post and you can see all of the detail in the fretboard.

    Its all lost now as can be seen by the 3rd picture..

    body1.jpg

    Stealthcaster02.jpg

    Stealthcaster03.jpg

    Man I really see what your talking about. My camera really sux. It does make the pickups and knobs look white and not aged white.

    Oops, my bad on that one. I guess if you want this to look closer to correct, you will have to adjust the colors until that looks like proper aged white. Then the photo will be in the corect colors.

    Here is one last shot of the whole thing.

    Stealthcaster01.jpg

  9. Sahweet! I like it a bunch! I agree, it definitely looks "rich" to my eyes too. I like the fact that the pickguard is a bit see-through too.

    Would you mind giving us a rundown on your wiring combinations? 20 different combos sounds a bit gratuitous :D

    Sure. I will do my best

    Parentheses are used to show the switch grouping theme.

    + = Parallel * = Series - = Out-of-Phase

    MsB = Middle Series Bridge

    MpB = Middle Parallel Bridge

    MsB= Down

    MpB= Down

    1. B

    2. B + (N)

    3. B * (N)

    4. (- B ) * (N)

    5. (N)

    MsB = Up

    MpB = Down

    1. B

    2. B + (N*M)

    3. B * (N*M)

    4. (- B ) * (N*M)

    5. (N*M)

    MsB = Down

    MpB = Up

    1. B

    2. B + (N+M)

    3. B * (N+M)

    4. (- B ) * (N+M)

    5. (N+M)

    MsB = Up

    MpB = Up

    1. B

    2. B + (M)

    3. B * (M)

    4. (- B ) * (M)

    5. (M)

    Flatwounds is an interesting choice as well. I've been meaning to get a set and see how different they sound then regular strings when playing some metal. The only flatwounds I've played are on the jazzboxes at my guitar teacher's apartment. Where did you get the parts from? Did you make the body and neck yourself?

    No, I have made a few in the past but these I can't take credit for. These are Warmoth

    In fact a good bit of it just come from them.

    Body

    Neck

    Frets

    Nut

    Tremolo

    Jack plate

    Machine heads

    Straplocks

    All the hardware

    In fact the only thing I didn't order from them was the pickguard , pickups and wiring. The pickguard I cut just for this guitar. I made a template out of a tracing of a Stratocaster pickguard and then made a raise mold by cutting a piece of masonite to the Stratocaster template and then mounting that onto a piece of 1/2in ply. The I just let my dremel plunge router do the rest.

    The pickups are only temporary, I plan to put my own hand wound pickups in it (when I get off my lazy arse to building the set for this guitar)

    they will be noiseless as well. I want to wind a set with the acoustics of the guitar in mind. So it may take a few rewinds to get what I want, but I will do my best to do the wood justice.

    Very nice look and I wouldn't do anything to it...perhaps aged instead of white parts may have looked a bit better...but these will age in time so...no problems...white may have been ideal to really pop out, as you say the photo is difficult to tell true colours and effects.

    It should also age well.

    I hate to be an "I told you so" but if you look at my original post, you will note that you overlooked the part where I said that I used aged white pickups. The knobs are as well. The photo I thought showed that well enough but I am used to looking at the actual guitar. I am sure that clouds how I perceive the picture to some degree.

    I like the massive switching options without the clutter...do you have a wiring scheme you used. How did you get hold of the S-1 switch...?

    I bought the Pickups and the S-1 switching system complete on ebay it was the SCN pickups, S-1 switch and the rest of the fender components mounted in a white Perloid pickguard.

    As far as the wiring Schematic is concerned, I don't give out my wiring designs until I am happy with them. I am close with this one, but I still have a considerable bit of work, yet on it.

    Otherwise, a real beaut...GOTM maybe?

    pete

    Sorry, I don't mean to be a smartass but what does GOTM mean?

    Im new to this forum and not sure of the termanolgy being used.

    rosewood usualy gets lichter due to licht etc... most rosewoods ive seen atleast, like the realy dark purplish indian rosewood. Give it some sunlight for a some time and it can ( also depending on what type of finish i guess) turn to light brownish.

    EDIT:

    or put the guitar under a UV lamp if you dont want to wait for a year or more...

    Thanks for the tip Ill try it. Also in my next post I will show you the difference between what it looked like when I got it vs. now. I think everyone will see what I mean about wanting to lighten it. Really the only part I want to lighten is the fretboard. You can no longer see the really killer figuring that was in the first post. that is what I wish to lighten more than anything. I will let the pictures tell the story. I have to wait for a non rainy day here in the Seattle area to take a picture of it so that you have a good comparison. might take a few days :D

  10. You can try to bleach it. Experiment on some scrap if you decide to try.

    On a different note, that looks.... rich. Why did you go with flatwounds?

    I went with flatwounds for recording (and also because I like the feel of them)

    The flatwounds put the attention on the sound of the notes without the sound of string drag in the mix.

    I take it by "that looks.... rich." your referring to the cost?

    Yeah, it was kinda ugly.

    In fact I would go so far as to say, I wish I had carried a Vaseline jar with me when I decided to start this project. It would have made the whole, extraction of moo la from its orifice, a tad bit easier.

    I built this guitar for recording. It will not be spending its life in a trophy case somewhere, looking pretty and collecting dust. I plan to abuse it daily.(I mean that in a good way)

    Thats not to say I don't value it, and wont use all due diligence in keeping it safe from damage.

    However, I built this to use and enjoy as often as I can.

  11. OK, really, you don't want to do that. Yes it will make a major difference in sound, no you wont like the results.

    You'll notice that position 2 & 4 on your 5-way switch are hum canceling. If you disconnect the middle pickup without re-wiring the whole guitar, there can be no hum canceling position. The Strat utilizes a reverse wound pickup in the middle position. When the switch is in pos 2 it is using the bridge and the middle pickup to create a hum canceling position. Same with Pos 4 but instead of the bridge and middle, its the neck and the middle that make the hum canceling. In both cases it requires that reverse wound middle to do that.

    Hope that helps some

    Mike

  12. Well theres really not of build pictures to put up. I find that trying to shoot Rosewood in a Basement apartment with low lighting and a 3.2 mega pixel camera, to be damn difficult. I do plan to take some better pictures when I start the finish. I hope to have better camera by then.

    Here is where it is to date:

    East Indian Rosewood Body Strat style

    East Indian Rosewood Neck with a Brazilian Rosewood Fretboard

    6230 Stainless Steel Frets

    Graphtech Graphite nut

    Shaller Mini locking tuners

    Gotoh - Wilkinson VS-100 Tremolo

    Aged White Fender Samarium Cobalt Noiseless Pickups

    Smoked Lexan Pickguard

    (1) S-1 Vol (2) Push/Pull tone.

    5-way Superswitch

    Custom wired with over 20 combinations without changing the stock look.

    All gold hardware

    D'Addario Flatwound Jazz 10s

    Stealthcaster.JPG

    I still need to find someone in my area that can do really fine detailed inlay work for my logo

    Then I am going to either go with a Dutch oil finish or Nitrocellulose finish. (Leaning towards Dutch oil)

    I will try to take some more pictures this week as time permits.

    Also, I have a question to those of you that are really into natural wood finishes.

    Is there any way to lighten Rosewood up? Not much, I would like to just get it a few shades lighter so it doesn't finish out so dark.

    Thanks

    Mike

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