Zeb_hendrix

Ok, Thanks

And It would be a Dimarzio X2n and a Seymour Duncan Invader Fitting in EMG select holes.

Ive got a guitar that has cavitys for EMG select pickups, Would seymour duncan and Dimarzio pickups fit in the cavitys?

Would 4oz of Faskolour/Autoair be enough to paint one smallish guitar body?

So instead of Zpoxy could I use a Water base grain filler and water base sanding sealer?

And when using Zpoxy will I need to thicken it with Silica Thickener like with the Epoxy?

But can Faskolour also be sprayed with a regular spray gun?

KTM-9 + ZPoxy = $45 shipped (for a quart of KTM). If you don't have large pores, skip the ZPoxy, go to the hardware store and get a can of shellac. It's also a sanding sealer without the soap. Locally $10 quart. As for the white, keep it simple as well, Faskolor/Auto-Air through an airbrush will work great. 10-12 coats of KTM and you'll have gloss and enough material leftover to probably do 3 (or more) guitars.

What is the difference between using the Zpoxy as a filler and the System 3 Epoxy filler?, on LMII they suggest using the Epoxy stuff.

And using Epoxy to fill the pores of the wood Im assuming that would mean I dont have to fill the grain and use a sanding sealer. Oh, Just read that they cant ship this epoxy out of the USA so are there any alternatives.

And this Faskolor stuff, Its not a pigment is it. And how many bottles should I buy. They come in 2 ounces would two bottles be enough.

Hey.

I'd like to finish my guitar an Opaque bright white colour with Glossy top coats.

I'm trying to find about some different types of waterbased lacquer but just googling it I only get results for Stewmacs Colortone stuff. This stuff seems good for me but by the time I buy the Lacquer, white pigment, sanding sealer and grain filler thats adds up to like 70 bucks and then 80 bucks postage. Thats a bit expensive for me. Does anyone know of any other cheaper options I could take but still using a waterbased lacquer, like some stuff I could get at a local hardware store or paint shop. And Im going to be getting spraying gear so nothing thats sprayed from a can.

Thanks Zeb.

Ill be interested in an answer for this two, Im currenetely researching what kind of lacquer to buy to spray onto my guitar.

Hey.

What are some good brands of clear lacquers that can be sprayed onto a guitar with a gun.

If you have any could you tell me whether its Water based or Nitrocellulose ( I think is spelled that wrong).

Does anyone no exactly what the difference is between the Dimebuckers ouput and the Super Distortion?

Maybe I'll go for the Dimebucker in the bridge position and the Dimarzio super distortion in the neck position.

I'm putting the pickups on my custom handmade guitar and I play all types of music but mostly rock, metal, blues and Jazz.

For this Guitar I want high out put Pickups along the lines of the Seymour Duncan and Dimarzio ones I suggested.

I'm gonna be buying some New Pickups for my guitar soon and I'd just like to hear some peoples opinions on my Selections.

For the bridge position I was thinking of a Seymour Duncan Dimebucker or a Dimarzio X2n.

I'd just like to hear some peoples opinions on these pickups or some alternatives (not EMG 81s though, allready have some on another guitar and I want to try something new).

Also I haven't decided on a pickup for the Neck position but I was thinking of having a Seymour Duncan Invader, Full Shred Or distortion some thing. (also could someone tell me some good neck pickups from Dimarzio).

Zeb.

Sorry about that everyone, not sure how to delete them all.

Has anyone got any good links that explain star grounding/shielding.

How does it play & sound? It's hard to tell from the angle but the action looks pretty good considering the neck angle issue people mentioned. The controls do look a bit cramped - I'd be tempted to change the wiring to a single volume and tone knob, and remove the two knobs nearest the bridge (then fill the holes with some dowel, shouldn't be visible if you paint it).

I think it would look cooler with bevelled edges (kind of like a lot of BC Rich guitars) - it would be easier to do than binding too Then again installing the binding would be good experience.

By the way - if you still like the idea of a design on the top, have a look at the fabric top tutorial. I've seen some nice stuff done with Origami paper on the reranch.com forums too.

Good on you for actually getting it done and not being put off by the comments made by a few people.

By the way - the star grounding thing refers to the way the ground wires are arranged, in star grounding they all ground to a single point. Google for "guitar star grounding" and you should get the idea.

Thanks Hexa,

I think I said this earlier on but I'm on a long holiday on Europe and I wanted to have a "test" set up before I left to see how it sounded. I changed my mind about binding ages ago and decided to bevel just as you said.

Ill be back in 6 weeks as soon as I get back Ill take it a part and start shaping, scraping, sanding the body then finishing it.

When I first put the Bigsby arm on I showed it to my dad and he suggested I do exactly the same thing as you said. The way I see it if I leave them there it makes the guitar appearance worse but if I take them off I make the guitars tonal capabilites less ( unless I put the pots some where else like up near the neck. At the moment I'm ok with them where they are.

The action is fairly good, could be a bit lower though it's not quite as low as my SGs , Its probably a good height for slide guitar at the moment. If I want to make it lower though Ill need to slot the nut.

Zeb.

How does it play & sound? It's hard to tell from the angle but the action looks pretty good considering the neck angle issue people mentioned. The controls do look a bit cramped - I'd be tempted to change the wiring to a single volume and tone knob, and remove the two knobs nearest the bridge (then fill the holes with some dowel, shouldn't be visible if you paint it).

I think it would look cooler with bevelled edges (kind of like a lot of BC Rich guitars) - it would be easier to do than binding too Then again installing the binding would be good experience.

By the way - if you still like the idea of a design on the top, have a look at the fabric top tutorial. I've seen some nice stuff done with Origami paper on the reranch.com forums too.

Good on you for actually getting it done and not being put off by the comments made by a few people.

By the way - the star grounding thing refers to the way the ground wires are arranged, in star grounding they all ground to a single point. Google for "guitar star grounding" and you should get the idea.

Thanks Hexa,

I think I said this earlier on but I'm on a long holiday on Europe and I wanted to have a "test" set up before I left to see how it sounded. I changed my mind about binding ages ago and decided to bevel just as you said.

Ill be back in 6 weeks as soon as I get back Ill take it a part and start shaping, scraping, sanding the body then finishing it.

When I first put the Bigsby arm on I showed it to my dad and he suggested I do exactly the same thing as you said. The way I see it if I leave them there it makes the guitar appearance worse but if I take them off I make the guitars tonal capabilites less ( unless I put the pots some where else like up near the neck. At the moment I'm ok with them where they are.

The action is fairly good, could be a bit lower though it's not quite as low as my SGs , Its probably a good height for slide guitar at the moment. If I want to make it lower though Ill need to slot the nut.

Zeb.

How does it play & sound? It's hard to tell from the angle but the action looks pretty good considering the neck angle issue people mentioned. The controls do look a bit cramped - I'd be tempted to change the wiring to a single volume and tone knob, and remove the two knobs nearest the bridge (then fill the holes with some dowel, shouldn't be visible if you paint it).

I think it would look cooler with bevelled edges (kind of like a lot of BC Rich guitars) - it would be easier to do than binding too Then again installing the binding would be good experience.

By the way - if you still like the idea of a design on the top, have a look at the fabric top tutorial. I've seen some nice stuff done with Origami paper on the reranch.com forums too.

Good on you for actually getting it done and not being put off by the comments made by a few people.

By the way - the star grounding thing refers to the way the ground wires are arranged, in star grounding they all ground to a single point. Google for "guitar star grounding" and you should get the idea.

Thanks Hexa,

I think I said this earlier on but I'm on a long holiday on Europe and I wanted to have a "test" set up before I left to see how it sounded. I changed my mind about binding ages ago and decided to bevel just as you said.

Ill be back in 6 weeks as soon as I get back Ill take it a part and start shaping, scraping, sanding the body then finishing it.

When I first put the Bigsby arm on I showed it to my dad and he suggested I do exactly the same thing as you said. The way I see it if I leave them there it makes the guitar appearance worse but if I take them off I make the guitars tonal capabilites less ( unless I put the pots some where else like up near the neck. At the moment I'm ok with them where they are.

The action is fairly good, could be a bit lower though it's not quite as low as my SGs , Its probably a good height for slide guitar at the moment. If I want to make it lower though Ill need to slot the nut.

Zeb.

How does it play & sound? It's hard to tell from the angle but the action looks pretty good considering the neck angle issue people mentioned. The controls do look a bit cramped - I'd be tempted to change the wiring to a single volume and tone knob, and remove the two knobs nearest the bridge (then fill the holes with some dowel, shouldn't be visible if you paint it).

I think it would look cooler with bevelled edges (kind of like a lot of BC Rich guitars) - it would be easier to do than binding too Then again installing the binding would be good experience.

By the way - if you still like the idea of a design on the top, have a look at the fabric top tutorial. I've seen some nice stuff done with Origami paper on the reranch.com forums too.

Good on you for actually getting it done and not being put off by the comments made by a few people.

By the way - the star grounding thing refers to the way the ground wires are arranged, in star grounding they all ground to a single point. Google for "guitar star grounding" and you should get the idea.

Thanks Hexa,

I think I said this earlier on but I'm on a long holiday on Europe and I wanted to have a "test" set up before I left to see how it sounded. I changed my mind about binding ages ago and decided to bevel just as you said.

Ill be back in 6 weeks as soon as I get back Ill take it a part and start shaping, scraping, sanding the body then finishing it.

When I first put the Bigsby arm on I showed it to my dad and he suggested I do exactly the same thing as you said. The way I see it if I leave them there it makes the guitar appearance worse but if I take them off I make the guitars tonal capabilites less ( unless I put the pots some where else like up near the neck. At the moment I'm ok with them where they are.

The action is fairly good, could be a bit lower though it's not quite as low as my SGs , Its probably a good height for slide guitar at the moment. If I want to make it lower though Ill need to slot the nut.

Zeb.

How does it play & sound? It's hard to tell from the angle but the action looks pretty good considering the neck angle issue people mentioned. The controls do look a bit cramped - I'd be tempted to change the wiring to a single volume and tone knob, and remove the two knobs nearest the bridge (then fill the holes with some dowel, shouldn't be visible if you paint it).

I think it would look cooler with bevelled edges (kind of like a lot of BC Rich guitars) - it would be easier to do than binding too Then again installing the binding would be good experience.

By the way - if you still like the idea of a design on the top, have a look at the fabric top tutorial. I've seen some nice stuff done with Origami paper on the reranch.com forums too.

Good on you for actually getting it done and not being put off by the comments made by a few people.

By the way - the star grounding thing refers to the way the ground wires are arranged, in star grounding they all ground to a single point. Google for "guitar star grounding" and you should get the idea.

Thanks Hexa,

I think I said this earlier on but I'm on a long holiday on Europe and I wanted to have a "test" set up before I left to see how it sounded. I changed my mind about binding ages ago and decided to bevel just as you said.

Ill be back in 6 weeks as soon as I get back Ill take it a part and start shaping, scraping, sanding the body then finishing it.

How does it play & sound? It's hard to tell from the angle but the action looks pretty good considering the neck angle issue people mentioned. The controls do look a bit cramped - I'd be tempted to change the wiring to a single volume and tone knob, and remove the two knobs nearest the bridge (then fill the holes with some dowel, shouldn't be visible if you paint it).

I think it would look cooler with bevelled edges (kind of like a lot of BC Rich guitars) - it would be easier to do than binding too Then again installing the binding would be good experience.

By the way - if you still like the idea of a design on the top, have a look at the fabric top tutorial. I've seen some nice stuff done with Origami paper on the reranch.com forums too.

Good on you for actually getting it done and not being put off by the comments made by a few people.

By the way - the star grounding thing refers to the way the ground wires are arranged, in star grounding they all ground to a single point. Google for "guitar star grounding" and you should get the idea.

Thanks Hexa,

I think I said this earlier on but I'm on a long holiday on Europe and I wanted to have a "test" set up before I left to see how it sounded. I changed my mind about binding ages ago and decided to bevel just as you said.

Ill be back in 6 weeks as soon as I get back Ill take it a part and start shaping, scraping, sanding the body then finishing it.

You need to look up (search) threads on the black ice and strawberry ice...but you may well be very disappointed...depends what you expect from it...it does not do a lot or useful... It is a bit of a gimmick.

The afterburner is +20dB active preamp, so you will need a battery in the guitar...

With real EMG pickups with preamps that already have a battery in there...such an add on makes some sense...or to turn a passive guitar into an active low impedance with active boost...but the same or similar effect can be had with a preamp stomp box or active volume pedal...

It depends a lot what kind of amplifier you are running into...if a valve amp, the extra power cam produce a nice breakup...with transistors amp, often a grainy bad distortion or head cutting highs...with a digital system or computer...possibly very nasty digital distortion where the A/D converters are overloaded...

There are a number of preamps and onboard distortions and such around (artec, GFS) but some add noise and certainly, any noise in the guitar may well be amplified as well by such devices (another reason they work well with low noise active EMG pickups besides having already, on board power...

just a few thoughts...

If I dide use the After Burner I would use it in conjuction with Passive EMG H4 pickups (equivalent of 81)

I've been looking around on the internet at some different things I could add to my guitars bag of tricks and two things have popped out at me: The EMG After Burner and Black Ice.

If anyone out there has used a guitar with either of these or Installed either could you tell me what you thought of each (mainly the sound but how well they work as well) and which you prefer?

Thanks

Here is a pic of the wiring. You can see ive used a push pull pot for a coil tap:

Is your first guitar and is good that you can design, build and finish your projects. But I have some advices for your guitar :

1) Isolate your control cavity and connect it to ground.

2) Avoid the ground loops connecting all the grounds forming a star and only one wire from this star to the ground of the output connector.

In this way your guitar will be very quiet.

Thanks Andronico.

I was wondering if you could explain what your saying in depth a bit more because I'm a beginner with the electronics business.

I'm not sure what you mean by "connect them in star", im assuming u mean the pots which are connected in a pentagon but connecting in a star still uses same amount of wire. And also not sure about how to isolate the control cavity.

Zeb.

Doesnt anyone want to comment