Ki swordsman

i could attach a wire from the shielding on the wood to the electronics on the pg though?

how close to the controls does it have to be? what's the physics behind shielding?

you could just put it around the inside on the wood though right?

and would it still work under a layer of paint?

(i'm thinking of putting a clear PG over front routed guitar....)

pretty cool, only thing i'd suggest is to bring the guitar out a bit more in the mix,

and the drums are a bit dodge....

jemsite occasionally, nintheye(music/general), LD4all(lucid dreaming and other), artoftheninja(ninjutsu).....and err bangslam?!

oh, and an xbox hacking forum..

'the answer is the length of a piece of string'

(ie. no definitive answer)

yeah, he was just saying it's more efficiant to learn how to create them

for instance modes, harmonic modes, and pentatonic together, you can learn 19 scales...

or if you know the theory you only need to learn 3... and you pretty much know the rest

scales intervals theory thread here

it needs a bump anyway

Rotfl!!!

does the neck have fretboard hangover or a solid end?

(what's the proper name for that? )

actually Vai uses the G-force which is even more advanced

HOLY.>JEEEEYT JJEEETT!! (foams at mouth)

wicked idea man!!!!!

now i want to try it with electrics......

it'll be tight

i assume your b is around .013? and not a 7th string?

remember a heavy e is .011 (i think)

i'd tune it to a D or something and just play differently for a little bit

if it's a floating trem your setup will go out

if not i wouldn't worry but i wouldn't tune all the way to E if it feels like it's getting really tight...

how much would shipping be for the neck to 7050 tasmania, Australia?

i'm refinishing a friends axe and he asked me to look out for replacement necks

i know it's too late but another option would have been to get them to sign a blank transfer, then you could worry about it later, and you could put it wherever you want

looks great so far!

basically you can put a whole amp setup in a rack for efficiancy, choice(you can always swap one piece out, like a preamp..etc), and you can often get better sounds for less, a used pre/power is gonna be cheaper usually than a used 2000$ head and you could equal the sound..

each rack piece usually has it's own power cable

here's the rack i want to put together at the moment

(6 spaces)

Gmajor effects-1 space

midi switcher(ground control) so i can control everything from the one unit- 1 space

egnater IE4 preamp- 2 spaces

Peavey classic 50/50- 2 spaces

it means you don't have to worry about carrying, controlling, or seting up heaps of pedals, and you have great freedom with preamp and poweramp choice

go the can! it's only like 150 bucks and then you can tell us if it's actually decent!

just go with whatever you want

as far as i know harder woods will get you bright and pluck sounds nicely like yer good ol maple and ebony

softer woods get warmer smoother tones like good ol rosewood

just depends what your after

just did a bit more, the sponge is kicking ass today but i need one that keeps it's grit for longer...

i came down to a rather thick clear coat over the wood, must've been used as a sealer, there'd be no need to sand through that right?

except a 7 string RG (just in case you came across one)

nice work as usual jer(whether it's tuts, guitars, bikes, planes....lol)

is it posible to paint tuners,tunomatic bridge and a stop tailpiece? Has anyone done this before and how has it turned out?

you'd probably be better off making a new topic for this

hey im redoing my bass is it a bad ideal to use spray paint and then go over with clear coat

no, that's the general idea with refinishing... could you elaborate?

you might want to make a seperate topic too

i don't think finger grooves will be a problem with just a little care, it's not like you sand in one spot for ages

i'll have to see if i can get some better sponges, cos they're ingenious!!

well, i did the front and back no probs with an electric sander,

and did half the sides tonight by hand, i tried the sponge(which is great for certain contours) but paper in hand seems more efficiant,

though the sponge would kick ass if it was coarser...

i don't see how you could get finger grooves though, how big do you mean? i see no evidence of any at the moment, is it the sort of thing that might only show through the finish?

at the moment i'm sanding to wood

notice what?