Ragasguitars

Its very possible to do and very difficult, but the end result is more amazing than anything in my experience. The only thing you lose out on is being able to use combinations of woods for different tones but I tell you what, I don't think that you would care once you hear a guitar built out of one piece of wood. Here is on that I did, I have posted this link a bunch but here it is again. One piece guitar

Don't have the pics up that shoe the one piece mahogany neck and body but it is one piece of wood, If you want maybe I can put it on my site again for you. It is harder to do and there are things you need to do different. There are a lot of ways to do things, A few of them I tried to do the quick way, got lucky on some of them but trust me, take the time and do it right. You need to make jigs for several parts and processes, they dont have to be immaculate, just need to get the job done. I can help you out more with specific questions if you decide to do this in the future.

Let me clarify more for you then. Some companies I am sure don't care about quality or playibility, they just care about selling their guitars to people who are just learning how to play so it doesn't matter to them. Their fret slots could be wrong, and so could 100 other things be wrong, but for companies that do care about quality and playability and providing inexpensive guitars that play and sound better that take the time to do a proper set up would be able to save money. The selling price of the guitar is not the issue, its the quantity produced to the quality and playability of the guitar that will determine whether a zero fret is cost saving or not. If a company has their procedures and tolerances set so perfect that they can slap on a nut without any extra setup time then thats great for them. More than likely there will be a considerable amount of time spent slotting a nut properly. Its only relative to the type of company. Quality and cost are not always have to be related in the same way. Besides in order for a pre slotted nut to just get put on a guitar even if they are all the exact same size, other things will have to be perfect. Every fretboard would have to be the same exact size, at the same radius as the nut, every fret would have to be seated the exact same way every time, etc... If a company is taking the time to check all the measurments on these things for every guitar only to slap on a presized nut then they are wasting even more time and money. Do you see my point?

I think the "cheaper" idea for this debate is not being understood by some. If you build one guitar every other day, it really can't be factored into the cost and doesn't make a difference in cost, but if you want to just take a pre slotted nut and slap it on a guitar and just leave it like that, you shouldn't be building guitars. There are enough minute variables and tolerances that will make a pre slotted nut only make matters worse if you don't do a proper set up. I was a tooling engineer for CA Guitars, not that it is saying much but I quit, the company was run by a bunch of idiots adn the place sucks. Anyway, each guitar was set up with a pre slotted nut, but all that did was give a guidline as to where the slots needed to be, each one had to be filed to a specified set up depending on the model and the string gauge used. All frets were leveled and polished before the guitar went out, but you dont get that kind of work at a mass production factory, as in 50-100 guitars being sent out a day. This is where the zero fret becomes a much cheaper method of production, not from a guitar building sense but a manufacturing sense. If you don't understand production and manufacturing at all you won't understand this. Simple things save money. Unauthorized cigarette breaks by a couple hundred emloyess every day costs a lot of money, its simple and may seem minute but in the long run and on a large scale it costs companies lots of money, just like a zero fret would save companies a lot of money. If you have ever used a capo, you have used a zero fret so it doesn't matter either way, they function the same way but overall production, zero frets are cheaper and give better results for efficiency.

That is the most clear post on this topic Southpa. As far as zero frets being easier to do, yes it is easier and the same as a nut. Think about this, a company that makes inexpensive beginner guitars that makes 100 a day, takes about 15 minutes on average to properly slot a nut, multiplied by 100 is 25 hours. It would take 3 people a day to do 100 guitars a day at this rate. Put a zero fret, you have one person adding a nut for string spacing every minute or less. With a zero fret it takes one guy 2 hours tops to add the nut for string spacing. Say at 6 dollars an hour, this company would save close to $150 a day, thats about $30,000 a year. Thats why zero frets are seen on more cheaper guitars, it makes them able to sell them even cheaper and the quantity is more important. So why don't most campanies use zero frets, I don't know, it's a great way to save costs without changing anything. It's like trying to build a lot of guitars with only a chisel when a belt sander is available.

First off the only thing that affects the string tension is the tuning gears. The tension of the string is set by the scale length and the tuning, not the headstock angle or anything else. Zero frets are usually seen on cheaper guitars so they are associated with cheaper guitars and therefore are understood to be a cheaper method. Actually it is a more efficient method of production which makes less expensive guitars cost even less. Nuts are traditional, so people assume that its the only way to do things. A zero fret is quicker, and also gives you the most accurate string height possible. If you use a capo, you are basically using a zero fret. Its all just preference or lack of information that fuels the debate. Anyway, since you are using a zero fret, you still need a nut or some sort of string guide to space the strings properly. People do stupid things without knowing it, as an example, I used to work for an acoustic guitar company. Many of the bluegrass players we endorsed wanted a bone nut for their guitar because they just had to have one, then they would use a capo which makes the bone nut obselete. Knowledge is the key.

talking about both, wondering if some of the ones I have found for under 50 bucks are any good or if there are some awesome ones out there that are worth the price that I should know about.

Been wondering if anyone here has ever used any specific moisture meters or if any of them are even worth getting. Someone mentioned on an earlier post that cheap ones aren't any good. I live in southeast Louisiana and the outside humidity is quite often 80% and higher and I really need something precise to make sure this is not affecting my wood too much. So far I have been lucky. Any other advice on maintaining a stable environment will also be appreciated.

Also if you are worried about getting dry wood, you might want to just shop at lumber yards, ask around, many places have good instrument quality woods that are already dried to a proper moisture content. Of course you should still give it time to acclamate to your own shop conditions if they are kept under good control but you should find out these things from a trusted supplier. But like Drak said, if you are willing to wait a year to build with the wood you are buying from ebay then you should just to be sure. Also depends on the wood, but here is my experience on the other end of the waiting spectrum. I bought some buckeye burl, 3/8" thick, bookmatched set. It was basically cut and sent to me after sitting out in the sun for a day or so. This stuff is really pourous and soft and by the time I got it it was very dry, almost too dry but that's the nature of it, and it was used as a top wood for looks. I still waited a few weeks before using it and it didn;t seem to change much in that time though. Most lumber facilities have kilns that they dry their wood in and if you ask around at several places you might even be able to have them personally dry the wood you want to a specific moisture content if they don't already dry it to a proper moisture content for doing instruments.

Those are very unique designs. I like what he's doing, very similar to some of the work I have done in the sense that the carving has a lot to do with the design. If you haven't seen my work check it out My work

Let that guy know there are others who share the same eccentricities as him and the non traditional approach to guitar building.

you understand what i'm saying, that's the exact reason I said it might not look too good, your grain would not run in the same direction and would have seams that start at random spots on the top. But it could work.

It would probably not look as good but it might be possible to veneer over compound curves. Here's the concept: Take a sheet of paper and place it over the top of the guitar, as you try to lay it down to fit exactly on the top you will have to fold it or wrinkle it to get it pretty smooth. Take the paper off and cut the folds off. use this as a template to cut your veneer. This way you don't have to have your veneer roll up on you. Of course there would be crazy issues with actual gluing probably and you would have to have the veneer cut perfect but it could possibly work. Just a thought. Of course I would try it with cheap scrap first. If more explanation is necessary let me know.

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Thanks guys. Digideus, buckeye burl has no real acoustical qualities as far as I know. It is very soft and brittle, mostly used for an exotic look. As far as working with it it is very easy to work with since it is very very soft, but it is also what makes it hard to work with, you have to be very careful with it. A bookmatched set with about a 3/8" thickness is about $100. It is very very pourous, I used a 2 ton epoxy as a sealer, had to even coat it 3 times to get it smooth and completely sealed. The guitar is all out of one piece of honduran mahogany, no glue joints expect for the fretboard, and the buckeye.

METAL

LAY TO WASTE

This is some Brutal Metal

I agree with Drak also, Teachers need to take on the good with the bad, and thats what most experienced people here are on this forum, teachers. You have to be willing to hear the same question over and over, its part of the unknown and unwanted responsibility of the teachers, or the mods in this case, and Brian does a wonderful job.

Most new and several experienced guitar builders have probably never been on a forum before so you also have to take that into account.

On the topic of stupid questions, yes there are some questions that deserve stupid answers, like, "I've never seen a red strat, is it alright to paint a strat red?" Not a real question asked here but not too far from the truth of many questions asked here, just don't want to single anybody out. So yes, common sense is dying, and not just on the web, be careful in the real world to, there are idiots everywhere.

Don't know about that guitar but if you like artistic guitars check out these

My Webpage

Mine are not as extravagant, but I haven't been comissioned to do anything like that yet, but mine are along that line.

Check these out too, Exotic Guitars

What is so hard about just ignoring the post. Happens to me all the time, I post a topic and a message and 90% of the replies don't even reply about what I was asking or posting. Instead of people worrying about forum etiquette, which is basically subjective, just ignore it. If someone breaks a rule, delete the post. I see people ask REALLY STUPID questions, and yes there is such a thing as a stupid question, and I just laugh to myself and ignore it. If someone wants to answer it, let them, otherwise leave it alone. I understand that as a mod you all have a lot to worry about on this forum but you gotta understand that most of you have been working with guitars for years, at some point in time you were new also so if the burden that comes with experience of hearing the same question over and over, or having to listen to the voice of inexperience really gets to you then you shouldn't be a mod. Not to take any sides in this matter, but some of the people on this forum sometimes make me feel like they only want experienced guitar builders in here. But you have to realize that to be a teacher, which is what the forum is all about, you need to accept the responsibility and teach. This is just about the general way this forum is. I check this forum everyday so don't take what I am saying to be a bad thing, just a difference in opinion on how things are sometimes on forums.

A neighbor of mine had a very old les paul, don't know exactly what year but he has had it forever, but he has moved within the last year so i can't ask him for sure, from my recollection, the body was smaller, very noticably smaller, and it was heavy as hell. Might not be tha same year les paul but i can at least tell you that yes, there is a certain les paul that is smaller, dont know what year but I have played on one. Hope that helps. As far as getting dimensions, I don;t know that answer.

sorry this reply is kinda late, been on my honeymoon. www.angelfire.com/la3/powerguitar/Glassman.html

This last guitar I built is made out of one piece of quatersawn honduran mahogany. It can be done, Its not wasteful if you know how to recycle and use scraps to make other things, and yes it is the most difficult way to build a guitar especially by hand. I have to say one thing though, the guy i built it for ABSOLUTELY LOVED THE WAY IT SOUNDED, as did I. You can try to plane the whole top surface of the wood, but it was really pointless for the way I was building this guitar, I took a "shortcut" which really saved me time and a lot of pain in the ass work with no loss of quality(yes I got lucky this time but don't take shortcuts, I found a way to make it work this time). What i did was very much a pain in the ass since it was the first one piece I ever built, had to make every little tool, or jig as I went along. I would need more information as to whether or not you are using a top wood. Neck angle is not a problem, don't put one, unless you are willing to spend more time making a jig to cut a neck angle in the wood than on the guitar itself. And if the bridge you get is too tall which it probably will be, just route a recess in the body to drop it to the right height. As far as the headstock angle, a 2" thick piece of wood might be a problem for acheiving a good headstock angle. Might need string retainers or a Strat style headstock. The guitar I did has no neck angle with a recessed bridge, and a low headstock angle with a string retainer, sounds better than any guitar I own or have ever played on, and everyone who has played it or heard it says the same. If you have more specific questions feel free to email me, my address is ragasguitars@cox.net Maybe we can compile a list of things after you are done and have worked out all your kinks and can post a tutorial section on building one piece guitars. Sorry this is all the info I have but there are a lot of answers I have just need the right questions, can't answer everything now but I am sure you will encounter some of the same road blocks I encountered. Also don't be afraid to get familiar with a hammer and chisel.

Silencio

They are blue reusable plugs, they work great and are hand washable with soap and warm water. I have been using the same pair for over a year like 3 times a week, wash them frequently and they still work great.

Earplugshttp://www.wholesalehunter.com/product/silencio/siledes/earplugs.htm

Last ones at the bottom.

I don't think you should worry about people telling you don't do something, to me it seems more like their own fears that they are incapable of doing something, trying to figure out a way to do it, or just scared of unconventional thought. I have had several replies about my work on posts and everyone on this forum who creams his pants when they see a "custom" guitar that looks like every other instrument in the world are the ones who say they hate my work, say it "looks like it was hard to make" or "not my style" but they would never dream of being able to build one. I do very non-traditional designs and it sets me apart more than anything. I have also never seen any guitars that are made out of one piece of wood, or that have hand cut steel inlays, or many with complicated carvings. Did that stop me, no. Its more expensive and harder to do but the end result is worth it. If you screw up, try again, don't give up and don't ask for opinions on designs for a guitar for yourself. You are the only critic you need. Instead of people telling you not to do something, they should offer good advice on possible things to look out for. Look at the last post, that guy has acoustic V guitars, not a bass but whose to say you won't be one of the first.

Just wondering if anyone here has ever played on a CA guitar or any type of composite acoustic guitar and what your opinion is of them, especially the CA guitars.

Not to seem like an ass or anything but isn't this poll about who is you favorite not who is the best? There is a difference, althought most people seem to think their favorite is the best. By the way, Chuck Shuldiner is my favorite. There is no such thing as the best. There are too many categories you could vote on, just doesn't make sense to declare a best. I can do things that none of the guitar players on the list can do, but that doesn't make me better, just different, just as they have skills I don't. Sorry to be so longwinded, just get aggravated when this type of topic comes up and people seem confused about it.

You might jsut have to test a few things out. Sometimes just adding clear coat or an oil finish can bring out all the grain including the flame depending on how the particular piece of wood you have reacts. I am not that familiar with every type of finish there is but most of the time whatever I used changed the look of the wood drastically in a good way. take a look at this guitar I recently finished Guitar

look at the before and after pics of the buckeye burl. The first one is the natural unfinished wood and the second one is after I applied an epoxy sealer. I had to use a thick epoxy since the buckeye was very soft and porous. thats what the wood wiil look like when clear coated. Also there was a lot of quilt in the mahagony in the rest of the guitar that I did not see until the sealer was put on. If you can try out a few things, you never know what might show up.

when using steel, i found that CA glue worked best, especially with the stainless, first of all it was a pain in the ass to sand, then it heated up too much and softened the epoxy and came loose, so CA glue works best. I used a drill for dots in ebony, and dremel downcut bits too. On that guitar I had the link to, the logo was done with an exacto knife, the buckeye I used is super soft and the exacto blade worked perfectly epecially for all those thin points. Thanks