Jump to content

MrDanger

Established Member
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by MrDanger

  1. LOL Thanks Prostheta! Ugh Too much work is making me inattentive. Right now its a just in the most basic of planning stages but I was thinking about having the 5th fret be the perpendicular fret. My string spacing at the nut is going to be in the ball park of 37mm at the nut and 54mm at the bridge. Am I making sense? LOL

  2. Hey Eric! Is this still going on? I'm fairly certain there's a $100 upcharge to multi-scale fretboard slotting but I was wondering if its possible to get a scale length that isn't included on your order form without an upcharge (that is if its even possible in the first place lol). Thanks!

  3. Welcome to the forum :D

    Read up on neck angles in the Melvyn Hiscock book if you have it.... if the bridge is high enough then Yes, you'll need a neck angle, it really depends on the height of the bridge saddles. If your trem bridge has the same saddle height as a standard strat bridge, then you probably won't need one as long as your fretboard height (above the body) is the same.

    You basically want to remove most of the material in the cavities with forstner bits on a drill press first, and just use the router bits to clean up the edges of the cavities. Having said that, you can certainly remove everything with the router but it's easier and less scary this way and extends the life of your router bits.

    Definitely make yourself some templates for this, out of 1/2" or thicker MDF or high-quality plywood (the kind with no voids inside). I'll either make them from scratch, or purchase a set of pickup routing templates from StewMac, then use them to make your "working templates" out of MDF/plywood....this way if you rout one of them by mistake, you can always go back and make a new one from the StewMac "masters".

    Since you've made your own neck from scratch, you'll need to make your own neck pocket template that will fit it.

    Making templates is good practice for routing the real cavities, shape the edges with files and sanding sticks until you're happy with the quality. Then attach the templates, trace out the cavities, hog out with the forstners, and clean up with the router.

    Thank you very much! I'm ordering that book now...I took it out from the library a while back but its probably a good idea to actually own it. The tips for the tools is much appreciated too!

  4. Let me begin by saying that I'm new to building guitars and this is my first real project. I've already got all the parts for this and the neck is done but I'm a little cautious (read: nervous) about routing the neck cavity and the bridge. Its going to be a bolt in guitar with a Hipshot trem (http://www.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=187). Firstly, do I need to have a neck pitch if I have a trem? I know that a lot of Floyd guitars don't need it but would I need it for a Strat style trem? Secondly, when I route the cavity for the trem, where is the best place to start? Lastly, what tools are best for the job? If anyone can answer these questions for me and provide me with any further advice or instruction, it will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

  5. I'm planning an Ibanez DT-400 build. I have read that the lawsuit era Destroyers have a nut width of 1-5/8". Do all the Destroyers use that nut width?

    Not all of them had that nut width. In fact, most of them actually had the 1-11/16" nut width. I'm fairly sure that the early (lawsuit era) Destroyers had the smaller width but the post-lawsuit DTs used the wider 1-11/16" nut.

×
×
  • Create New...