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ZMB psyks

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Posts posted by ZMB psyks

  1. I've heard that to get good intonation on a tunomatic you need to set the bass side 10mm back from the treble. But drawing out my plans now, I see that (using a compass) the bass side moves 1mm towards the treble side. Am I meant to move the whole thing 0/5 mm towards the bass side or is it not that important?

  2. 6.jpg

    here's the guitar I'd be interested in learning about. I have it by the way so if there's any questions about anything just ask.

    I've seen the tutorials for swirling with the vat of water and borax etc, but this is something different. You can see it's made up of 3 colours, green blue and purple. These colours melt into eachother, are very slightly transparant (I think). Maybe dyes were involved, but I still don't understand how the swirl was achieved.

    Any ideas?

  3. IM000973.jpg

    I was reading the thread about magnets instead of screws or whatever and I looked at this photo. It's obvious that the cavity cover was made from the same piece of wood as was covering the cavity before there was a cavity... if that makes sense.

    But how the hell? is there something I'm missing. Sorry but this seems impossible to me or maybe it's really obvious and I'm just blind.

    cheers

    ZMB psyks

  4. guitarfinalbevels2dx5.jpg

    I considered bevels so I already had this image ready, although I updated it with and the components etc.

    I think it looks alright, although I was considering doing a binding around the whole thing, which could possible be a bit put off by the bevels =P

    In the original picture I drew on the sloping for the armrest and body shape. It's the slightly darker shade of colour on both pictures.

  5. Thanks

    and I've sorted the pickup problem, the Dimebucker is black with white blades and the D-activator X is white with black blades. The opposite colours would look awesome.

    I've also decided to go for a tailpiece

    could anyone tell me what this is. The picture that says "more tone made more affordable" I want a bridge like that. is it a tunomatic? if so, I'd like an ID on it cos it looks awesome.

    And if possible, would I need to recess it to rid the need of a neck angle? it looks quite low sitting as it is.

  6. guitarfinalnx4.png

    well... there it is. I like to think of it as completely original, although I did design it around an already existing guitar however, it looks nothing like that now. This is the guitar I based it on, with next to no other inspiration

    I want a Seymore duncan dimebucker in the bridge and a DiMarzio D-activator X in the neck. My a happy coincidence they both look very nearly the same except for the colour of the magnet. The dimebucker is chrome whereas the D-activator is white. Is there anyway I can get them both to be the same colour, preferably chrome. I don't remember seeing the option on the DiMarzio site.

    The other thing I'm not happy with is the pickguard, I want it to be short, but I don't want to have an ugly cover on the back, essentially ruining the mahogany. This is more of a design question than a technical one, so if anyone has any thoughts on the pickguard shape, they'd be much appreciated.

    The strap buttons aren't going to be where they are on the picture, I'm going to cross that bridge when I come to it, and preferably the bridge will help me decide the best point of balance.

    I'm not sure whether to go with a tailpiece or string through, which is why I left both examples on the picture.

    Anyway, here's the specs:

    Laminated mahogany neck thru design

    Mahogany wings

    Black stained ebony fretboard

    24 frets

    B/W/B pickguard

    One volume, maybe two or One volume One tone

    Killswitch on the lower horn like morello

    scale length of 25-1/2"

    Thanks

    ZMB psyks

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