86barettaguy

In about 20 days I will no longer have access to the internet in the same way I have now. More than likely I will have to stop visiting all these wonderful forums. But before I go I was hoping to get some help with the re-building of my first guitar.

1) does anyone have some good drawings of a strat body? I need to know the position of the trem rout.

2) need some drawings for a strat neck. just basic drawings so that I can get all the dimensions correct (it's a shame that there aren't any affordable necks with 21 jumbo frets and a 12" radius). so maybe the nut-to-heel length along with fullsize drawings of the headstock (large late 60´s/70´s headstock) and the heel. And if anyone has an YJM neck it would be nice if you could trace the contour and check the depth of the scallops for me.

It's really a shame that I destroyed it like I did. that trem-to-hardtail tutorial showed me how I could repair the damage though. maybe this site will prove more useful than I thought

Just wondering how you go about installing strat-style jackplates on guitars that haven't been routed for them. How do you rout the cavity?

hey, nice tutorial! this will come in handy when fixing that mess I made when I thought I could do a floyd conversion

I don't think you'll find anything better than a floyd.

first thing you need to know is what you want in your trem. certain tonal qualities? simplicity? tuning stability?

If you're looking for tuning stability and simplicity I'd suggest the Floyd Rose. contrary to what people say it's not hard to re-string or set-up (seems to me that most guys who complain about it being a pain in the arse are the ones sending their guitars with vintage-style fender trems to a tech to have it intonated...)

how about the locking nut area? it just came to me that putting finish here might result in the locking nut being slightly out of place... but since it's an all maple neck it would probably need to be finished in this area as well, right?

I don't think you'll find any aerosol clear that will work well on aluminum.

Couldn't car paint be used? high-gloss alkyd maybe?

I figured I would need to remove the locking nut and possibly the string retainer when I finish my neck. unless I want clear on them for some weird reason... but, the truss rod won't be going anywhere. do I need to mask it off? and the holes for the string retainer and the tuners. should I be maskng those off or just pray that everything will work out fine?

in short: what do I need to mask off and what can be left as is?

I think that would be a good idea. it would allow you to check the drill bit size for the posts without taking any chances with the body. I don' think you'll be damaging the wood when pulling the bushings back out. they're press-fit, so they're not supposed to be stuck in there, they're just supposed to sit pretty tight.

sounds ok to me. is the 570 rear-routed? I'd use a digital camera to get some pics of the control cavity and wiring, just in case.

oh, I suppose you're going to take the strings off first, right?

Where did you get the Jack Daniels decal or is that a label

it was on there when I bought the body... I have no idea where the previous owner found it, but I think I'm gonna leave it there

here's a link to a pic of my project so far. I have all the parts (except maybe for the tuners) now but I need to figure a few things out before I bolt them all together. anyway, this will give you a pretty good idea of how the finished guitar will look like.

http://www.snyggast.se/?1227864

stratocaster. but... it would have to be something special for me to want to play it for the rest of my life... an YJM strat maybe?

the main reason would be that a strat is the only guitar I could picture myself playing when I'm 60...

uhm...

I have to start planning for another guitar...

Used to practice shotokan karate. had to give it up when I moved and haven't taken it up due to the lack of a suitable club around here. it's a shame though. there are times when I'm really in the mood for some kumite...

and another Jem I saw on this forum (I can't remember who was holding her),

that had green pick-ups, and green swirl over black.

sounds pretty much like a standard JEM77GMC. those are beautiful (the DNA and other multi-color swirls just seem a bit... you know... they look like popsicles)

As far as the neck: I used boiled linseed oil.

Just remember to occassionally (every three months or so) put on some new oil.

Ok... so... I've seen/heard people say that boiled linseed oil is the one to use. so far only one person has told me that cold-pressed/raw linseed oil (of the highest quality I can find) should be used. So, is there any difference between them as far as using them for necks is concerned?

yeah, a brand name would probably be useless to me. I'm just looking for the "I asked for a high-quality oil" or "I just took the cheapest one I could find" kind of comment

guessing the "oil every now and then" thing is why warmoth don't want people to use oil finishes on their necks.

talk to the guy in charge of the wood shop at the school you went to. maybe he'll let you in?

tsl: I would be interested in getting more info on how you finished your neck. considering using linseed oil for my project neck but haven't found all that much information on finishing necks with oils. *thinking out loud* maybe a tutorial on this subject would be worth considering?

what kind of linseed oil did you use? raw? boiled? what quality? manufacturer?

after you applied the oil, did you wax or something?

is it as durable as normal lacquer?

my project is really starting to bug me. finishing a neck isn't as simple as I first thought

maybe this is slightly off topic (if it is, could someone just move it to where it should be?)...

I have a DiMarzio Dual Sound I got a while back. Problem is that the previous owner enlarged the holes for the screws so that it now has to be mounted without the pickup ring. The body of my project guitar was made for a pickup using a pickup ring. so how do I go about using the Dual Sound in my guitar body?

how much oil would be needed for a neck?

would 1 spraycan of clear lacquer be enough?

starting to wish I had gotten a pre-finished neck instead...

I'm guessing you're talking about people trying to recreate a specific artwork?

ok, about putting a couple of layers of clear on it instead of oiling it... I suppose I could walk into the nearest store and buy a spray can of some clear lacquer, but are there any kinds of lacquers I should be avoiding?

oh, and I already know about cellulose and I want to know what my other options are.

butchers wax is a brand and a type

yeah i would wear rubber gloves and sand the neck prior to oiling it, this is incase any dirt or oils from your skin get on the wood .if you wear the gloves it will prevent that. i use latex doctor gloves.

ive never used linseed oil but it will probably work. id try it o a scrap piece of the same type of wood first. just to see what type of finish it gives and if its duarable.

hmm... I do have a left-over maple headstock

could (cold-pressed) linseed oil be used instead of tung oil? just a thought as it seems more readily available around here...

how about translating specific words into swedish, german, italian, hungarian, etc.? for those of us who know english but have no idea of what the hell a "reamer" etc. is...

tung oil, is a nice finish

sand the neck to 320, then rub the oil on and buf it off in like five to ten min.

then i do this thre times over two days. then i use a peice of 000 steel wool, and dip it in the tung oil and rub it on the neck, do this about twice. make sure no steel wool fragments are left on the neck betwen coats, then buf that baby will some butchers wax when its dry, polish it up reel good and you will love the finish!

is it necessary to sand the neck? or is it just something you do to speed up the process? just curious...

anyone know what grade allparts sand their necks to?