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peterbrown

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Posts posted by peterbrown

  1. Nice,

    I didn't realise you could do all that with free software. I guess the limit is your imagination. One tip I would add. Always plot with a scale bar or a line of a known length. Measure it before you cut to check that the print hasn't been scaled anywhere along the process. You can make an error in the scale from the design itself to the viewport scale to the export to pdf, tiff or whatever, and then resized accidentally when you press print, especially if you get someone else to print it. Some people just click "scale to fit page" which even if it's only something like 98%.. thats still a 2% error.

    I've been using CAD for a while now, and whilst it does cost a bit. I would list it very highly on my "most valued tools list" Worth the money I think. But I do like the paint story. if in doubt try paint.

    Cheers,

    Peter

  2. Hi,

    I call this one the "Star Single Cutaway"

    Neck - Laminated New Guinea Rosewood the maple stringers

    Fretboard - Santos Rosewood with custom "Star" MOP inlay.

    Headstock veneer - fiddle-back blackwood with hand engraved MOP "dragonfly" inlay

    Body - Chambered Blackwood

    Top - Carved Bookmatched Fiddle-back blackwood.

    Pickups - Seymour Duncan 59 in the neck and custom custom in the bridge. Both coil tapped

    Hardware- Gotoh

    Cheers,

    Peter

    P8170288.jpg

    P8170302.jpg

    P8090280.jpg

    P8170303.jpg

    http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/si.../neckfinish.jpg

    http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/si...ey/P8170301.jpg

  3. Thanks for the comments.

    Wenge is one of my favourite timbers at the moment. It is a beautiful timber to leave unfinished due to it's oily nature and opened grained pores, it feels realy nice to play and has realy low friction, which makes it feel faster. The only disadvantage is that it is heavier than most traditional neck woods, however the extra sustain and resonance makes up for it twice fold I think.

    Here are some pics of carving the top. Still a few blemishes to sand out.

    Cheers,

    Peter

    501-29.jpg

    501-30.jpg

    501-31.jpg

    501-32.jpg

  4. Thanks Decadantjon and Xanthus. The carve will be grdualated for the body and sharper around the horn. The line on the plans is more like a control line as a guide. i won't be chambering this particular build, however I have made up the template for future builds.

    Some more progress pics below.

    Gluing on the fretboard

    501-18.jpg

    The neck blank with the fretboard on.

    501-19.jpg

    The fretboard radiused and a lick of linseed oil ready for fretting.

    501-20.jpg

    The neck roughly shaped. Still need a bit of shaping.

    501-22.jpg

    Cheers,

    Peter

  5. Hi,

    I have a project to share with you all. It is a new design I have been working on for a while, and what better way to test it than to build it.

    Firstly the CAD.

    cad2.jpg

    The specs for this build are:

    Fretboard: Ebony. with gold MOP inlays

    Neck: 1 piece quartersawn wenge

    Body: Fijian Mahogany (Honduras)

    Top: figured maple

    Cheers,

    Peter

    501-09.jpg

    501-04.jpg

    501-05.jpg

  6. Fantastic! In my opinion this is the best "project guitar" guitar in a long time. I like your take on the traditional single-cut's set-neck the most, was there a reason for this method? It looks great.

    Thanks,

    I assume you mean how the bottom of the heel meets flush with the back of the guitar? The main reason for this was due to the body being thinner than average (36mm at the edge, 47mm at the centre) and I wanted the neck heel to remain the standard depth (if there is a "standard"), so I made it the full depth of the body, which also looks good too, I think.

    Cheers,

    Peter

  7. Hey guys,

    thanks for the feedback. If I was to do it again, I probably would consider a different pickup colour other than black. I was thinking silver rings, or no rings at all? Or even timber rings maybe? I just picked up a large billet of the blackwood for more tops and I think I'll trial a few options for the next blackwood guitar I make. The finish is waterbased colortone from Stewmac with a thin coat of blond shelac underneath. I love the WB colortone, is much better on the old lungs and environment than the trad solvent based.

    Thanks again,

    Peter

  8. Thanks for the feedback fellas,

    Sorry Xanthus, didn't quite get what you meant by the Dave Myka comment.

    The neck to body join was purely intentional. I'm building this for my sister who is small and finds her current Les Paul copy heavy and awkward to play and asked for a shorter, lighter instrument. She rarely sits high on the fretboard, so positioning the joint slightly higher, gets a slightly shorter overall instrument and maintain a standard scale length. The 22nd fret is still quite accessible. The body is about 90% of a standard Less paul size, and Geo you are correct in it being thinner than normal. 35mm at the edge and 47mm at the centre, which makes for a very playable instrument. Quite light too with the chambering and the slightly shorter neek maintains excellent balance.

    The wood wheels are centrally placed and just screwed in for each individual guitar, however the offset cam is a very good idea.. mmm... might steal that idea.

    Cheers,

    Peter

    P4270019.jpg

    P4270008.jpg

    Thanks Again

  9. What have you got to do to earn your right to "sell" a guitar? It's just a hunk of wood anyway. I've seen guitars for sale in a music shop for $80 that I recon would make better fire wood than instruments. No one questioned their integrity! Some opinions should be taken with a grain of salt.

    By the way. I would love to see this body through to the finished product, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do,

    Cheers

    Peter

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