JustinD

I was looking on our forum about two months ago and I saw a link about a guitar building seminar that someone had done that was a three day seminar. The guy posted links of his build as he progressed. I've spent the past few days searching for it, but can't find it. Let me know if anyone knows what I am talking about...

I did try the search function and most of prep stuff im coming up with is showing for paint a solid color. I wanting a natural look but having problems with grain and stuff...Just needed to know if I need to sand,seal,then dye...

try searching. there is plenty of info. no one is just going to tell you and give you specific info thats already on here.

After reading some posts and doing some research, I am doing the same thing you are doing. Same top, same mahogany body, just a different color.

If the top has sanding sealer don't sand through it, you'll expose it....this is what I've found by looking at other posts if the wood is unfinished maple:

lightly sand with 220 in direction of grain, wet the maple to raise it ,sand with 220 again lightly then shoot it with a vinyl sanding sealer. Stain the wood, shoot with sanding sealer, stain wood again to desired color, shoot with sanding sealer again......then 10+ coats of Nitro clear coat. This is very simplified of course

The pro would be on the headstock...there should also be a "japan" written on the back of the headstock.If I recall correctly,the serial # on those is at the end of the fretboard,below the 24th fret.

Yes you got a good deal,even for a japan model...those are the "mid level" jacksons ...just one step below the usa models...they really are very nice,just not my thing.

It is also a better guitar than a les paul,though some will argue...I say you should keep it...but I am sure you could get $200 for it...

Yes they are almost $700 new...at least last time I checked...but thanks to ebay,the used guitar market is saturated...the depreciation is very significant.You are better off keeping it or trading it straight up for a used lp studio...if your heart is set on an lp.

But I think you will be hard pressed to find someone willing to trade the lp...even though the jackson IS a better guitar,the Gibson name keeps the dollar value of the lp higher.

The serial number is listed on the back of the neck plat and it says # 9774373...what does that mean?

You could easily trade that straight up for an epiphone...though why you would want to is beyond me...

That's like trading treasure for trash.You lose access to at least 5 frets,a pickup position,and proper balance.Not to mention the serious loss of a straighter neck.

As you can tell I am new at the guitar thing and comparing apples to oranges is not my strongpoint ie. comparing Epiphone Lp's and Jackson Dinky, pickups, frets, etc... Never put the two against each other. Thanks for the clarification.

You guys rock !!! Thanks for the feedback. I think I will see if someone wants to trade, maybe for an Epiphone. I think this guitar is beautiful, but for some reason there is something so appealing about a Gibson/Epiphone LP... Maybe it's just a case of "grass is always greener"....

Those pics are less than great,but it looks like a dinky....Probably a "pro" series...Does it say "pro" on the headstock?You also need to research the serial # if you really want to find out the year and all.

Pro series guitars are made in Japan,are very good quality(though not quite as good as U.S.A.),usually are made from poplar with maple necks(mostly flatsawn from what I have seen,but very straight grained)and can come equipped with the duncan pups...But if it IS a pro series,it is not likely to have a real floyd...more likely a floyd "liscensed" model...

I would use the trem until it starts to go out of tune,then try to find a floyd or schaller to fit the rout and drop it in...

I had one (a soloist)...I did not like it.

I did not see PRO anywhere on it and I recall seeing a serial number on it, just not sure right now I'm away from home.

I am considering selling it and buying a piece of unfinished mahogany LP style. Any idea what a used Jackson Dinky or Pro would go for? It came with hard shell case, do you think I got an ok deal for $179.00?

Hey I just posted a pic of my jackson at the same time you did yours. Any chance you know what type of Jackosn that is?

I bought this Jackson guitar from a pawn shop. I am not all that familiar with guitars and I was wondering if you guys could tell me what type of Jackson this is and how much they go for new?

I know it has Seymour Duncan pickups, shark inlays a maple neck, rosewood fingerboard and a Floyd Rose Bridge.

Here

I agree with Xanthus 100%. $200-$300 would buy you a better guitar from a shop than you'd ever be able to build with a kit. A pawnshop I was in yesterday had an Ibanez Iceman for $199 and an Epiphone SG for $350. IIRC, the Carvin kit goes for +/- $350, then add shipping to be around $400. That would actually make you a really nice strat for the money.

In all honesty - without being an experienced builder or spending probably 6 months in research, you wouldn't even be able to make an ax from scratch for under what you're wanting to spend. (That's without taking tools into consideration.)

If you're only in a position to make a kit right now, or if that's what you have your mind set on, or whatever other reason you have for making another kit, my advice is save your money and buy a better kit. If a quality LP kit a completely unavailable, buy the parts individually and assemble it. Just do your research. Regardless of which path you choose, investigate the avenue thoroughly. Be an informed hobbyist and consumer.

That's exactly what i have been researching..I've found a few good sights with unfinished LP's.....I will take all of your insightful ideas, get a better LP body and great parts..

Thanks guys, this helps a bunch and my next guitar after this one will be store bought!!

I just finished my first Saga strat kit and it came out "ok"....I had a problem that most others had, getting through the sanding sealer. I did a search for other kit comanies and found BYOGuitar.com

Why would you want to sand through the sanding sealer? That seems to me to be the only advantage to buying a kit --having the sanding sealer already done (it's the most important part of finishing to get right).

I agree, I've never seen a good reason to build an electric from a kit. An acoustic maybe, but not a solidbody.

I was green, didn't know what the sealer was, didn't do much research for the project. I thought i could "wing" it and wound up making a sub-par looking guitar.

I'd like to try a Carvin, but I really want to build a Les paul.

As far as why I'd like to do another kit, well, I am less than a year into playing guitars and my untrained ear can't tell the difference between a $30 or $300 pickup So, the BYO kit is a mahogany body (which after doing some research, doing more this time around, is what some of the LP's are made of), and it has a maple veneer flame top on it, which I'd like to try and finish...my plan is to upgrade the tuners immediately, and then the pickups over time.

What else would you guys suggest I do?

Thanks for all of your feedback.

Hey everyone...newbie here.

I just finished my first Saga strat kit and it came out "ok"....I had a problem that most others had, getting through the sanding sealer. I did a search for other kit comanies and found BYOGuitar.com

has anybody ever done any of their projects?

Apparently, their kits are all unfinished......ie. without sanding sealer!!!!!!! So, for anyone who lacks the space or funds to spend money on woodworking tools, BYO looks like a better idea for a kit than Saga. The difference in price doesn't appear to be that different. I plan on getting their Les Paul kit when the taxes come back..