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deshibs

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Posts posted by deshibs

  1. Although I am a huge PRS fan and I realy like the Wolfgangs too, I have to say, the best guitar for the least money has got to be the Fender or Gibson. You can get them for $500.00 to $800.00 and have a nice guitar that plays and soungs great. With the Wolfgang it will be minimum ttwice that and the PRS will be 4 times that. I haven't played nor priced a soloist, so I don't know about that one. Deans quality is on the rise, but so is their price tag! Anyway, I for one would consider what tone you are looking for and go from there!

  2. I would do a strat first, yes there will be some carving, but if you do the routing proprly, you can have all of the electronics assembled in the pick guard and just put on the body, at the same time you can get a Fender neck for cheap and bolt it right up, obviously it's a little more involved than that, but it's the easiest one to do in my opinion! Good Luck! :D

    deshibs

  3. I don't think that all PRS's are machine cut etc... But if they were, so what? I have a PRS and a Gibson Les Paul and I play my PRS more than the Les Paul! I like the feel of the PRS more! I have even considered selling my Les Paul so that I could purchase another PRS. I guess it's all in the players hands so-to-speak. I have owned lots of guitars over the years, Kramer, Les Pauls, Hamer, Strats.... the list goes on, but in my 20 years of playing, I have never felt more comfortable on any of them as much as I am on my PRS, I have heard friends say the same about their SG or their Strat, so it's all in the individuals taste. If you can pick up a PRS and tell yourself that you don't like the feel and playability of it, than you just saved yourself thousands of dollars and kudo's to you, but if you sit down and try one out.... watch out, you may fall in love with it!

    P.S... If I sold PRS's in a store, I think that I would push them too. And if you were to order a PRS, It can take anywhere from 10 to 12 months to get it! Believe me, I know!

    Oh and by the way, have you ever replaced a set or through body neck, There are advantages to the alternatives!

  4. I may have to drill them out on a press, if I take my time with it, I should be able to drill them out with little or no problem, I have considered the issue of over sizing the existing bridge post holes and I have decided that I could refill the holes with a hard drying apoxy and then re-drill the holes, this will limit my options some, I will then have to put on a veneer or paint the body, I will lose the staining option unless I top the guitar body with a veneer.

  5. I had considered the Inset of the Opal also, as with inlay, the surface of the inlay is exposed, but I was thinking that I would have to route a little deeper and set the Opal and the follow up with some sort of protective transparant cover for it, is it possible to use laquer or something similar? I am concerned that what ever I use to fill, will scratch over time. I know that I could use it in the headstock etc... without worry, but I wanted to use it at the 12th fret.

    If I have a 1 or 2 mill space from the surface of the Opal to the surface of the fret board, I would think that would be enough fill to protect the Opal and still allow the beauty of the Opal to show, but now I will have to protect the filler, if it's too soft it will scrath when doing bends etc.... I thought about glass, but I am not sure if I can get glass that thin. Hmmm.... Maybe I will just have to forgat about it, but I will give it a bit more time for discussion, perhaps someone will have an idea. :D

  6. Just curious if anyone has heard of someone using Opal for inlay on their fret boards. I have a nice Piece that is flat on top and not too thick, I was considering using it on the 12th Fret as a marker. Opal is kind of delicate and can crack easily under certain conditions, but it may work on an ebony neck. Anyway... Just an idea! Anyone hear of this? Maybe I will be the first? (doubtful)! :D

  7. Hey.... Anybody out there ever refinish a guitar that had a Tune-O-Matic Bridge or something similar that had non-threaded posts set into the body? I want to refinish an old B.C. Rich Warlock and it's got the posts, they are the last thing that I need to remove before I can begin to strip the paint off of it, I want to try and remove them without damaging the body of course! Any suggestions? :D

  8. I'm a newb at necks and am wanting some info in regards to neck radius measurements, the PRS that I own has a 10" Radius neck, exactly what does the spec refer to when it says that, what would be the difference between a 10" radius and say a 16" radius besides the obvious dimension.

    deshibs

  9. I would do some testing before go into the actual application of your color. I made sure that when I purchased my Veneer that I had extra to test my colors on, and I am happy that I did, I learned a few things about using black and sanding back, I have experimented with bursting etc.... Good Luck!

    deshibs

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