zeegeit

Allright... maybe I'll check 'em out

I'm not that far from the Hague

I thought spruce was vurenhout? Pine was spar..at least that's what I thought, but whatever

hey Phil! Yes I'm from the netherlands...

I'll look into those wood shops. I actually bought the wood at Gamma..it's meranti multiplex (I didn't find any solid hardwoods.. the only thing they had was pine (18 mm thick) and that wasn't even in stock.)

If I were to go for a totally low-budget router, what would I probably have to spend?

Well here's another pic of the guitar body as it is now

I really like building this guitar (even though it'll probably sound like sh*t ), and for my next project I'll use hardwood, mommy

Hey

Wow, lots of replies ! tnx

There is a more important issue than access to the 15th fret, and that is the distance from the 12th fret to the bridge. If it is not the same as from the nut to the 12th fret, the intonation will be off.

The distance from the 12th fret to the bridge is the same as the distance from the 12th fret to the nut...I know it looks different, but the guitar is tilted in that picture.

It measures up to a 25.5 inch scale length (same as the original guitar)

that and the control route....why did you cut it from both???

why get 2 covers??? what do you plan to screw them into???

that and the knot on the back is just itching to cause you trouble

We cut the control (with the jigsaw) from both sides because we couldn't cut say 8 mm in the lower board(no router), and if we only cut it out of the top layer, it would be to shallow to put the electronics in...that's basically the reason.

The knot isn't actually a knot..it's a hole where the cables can fit through

typically plywood is used for templates not as the actual body, unless your lookin for a cheap strat knock off, save urself some trouble by thinkin bout starting over with a piece of alder ull prolly end up happier with the end results

I know I would probably end up more satisfied with a piece of alder, but to work with alder i'd need a router ..at least that's what I thought And I wanted to try this with the tools we had in stock...just to see whether it could be pulled off, that's why I used the multi-plyboard ; it was only about 8 euro..

for the pickup routes (on a pickguaurd less guitar especially), you should have gotten templates, they're only like 4 bucks from stewmac, and it makes the routes veryneat. also whats the point of routing the control cavity all the way through  , . also if the bridge is a tremelo, where is the spring cavity, if its not, why the through body route where the briddge is....

also with the pickup routes, if they are for huimbuckers (are they?), they have tabs at the side for the mountings screws, and all this other stuff, it looks like the routes are too small (unless they are sc's), so you might want to invest in the templates and re route to the correct shape.

I know the pickup cavities are rough, but the plan is to glue another layer onto this body, to suspend the pickups. I actually did have sort of templates...but we're sawing these out with a jigsaw instead of with a router, and the saw's blade isn't very thin. These cavities are actually ment for single coils, and they actually tuck in quite nice

it seems like thats what he wanted, but you still need the springs or the edge of the bridge will dig into the front of the guitar and screw with action, intonation, sustain, and others

indeed the bridge is actually a trem without the springs etc., but I didn't know you'd need the springs even if you don't plan to use it as a trem, but now that you mention it, it seems natural..i'll look into that... thanks for mentioning that

For my next project I will use hardwood But , again, this is just a test.

Hope that gives you the answers you wanted

Well, another update on my project; it's now the end of day 2. We've switched the plans from a semi-acoustic guitar to a solidbody(first project, trying to keep things as easy as possible ) but work's going on just fine. Here's a pic of how the body parts look now

And , since I couldn't resist putting on the neck , here's a picture of the body with the neck on it

I know they may look a bit sloppy, but I don't care

well, that's all I have to say now, so go ahead, post some replies and make my day

Hey people! Well.. don't start laughing at me immediately because I'm going to build a guitar out of multi plyboard; it's just to try it out =D I don't know if this is the right forum to post it, but since it's more like a solid-body guitar than a hollow-body, I thought "Whatever!" .

Ok down to the point. I'm creating this guitar out of multiplyboard (I'll call it multiplex ok?) It's going to be a Les Paul Junior style semi-acoustic ( ) My plan is this: Sandwich two layers of multiplex(18 mm thick) between 2 layers of triplex (3.6 mm) . I've created a website where you can see my daily progress.

Semi-Acoustic guitar out of Multi-ply board

Hope you like it..it's my first project ever

BTW..half of the parts come from a strat-clone which i bought from my brother =D

Hi people

Just wondering, I saw a tutorial for a lap-steel guitar this afternoon ; http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/lapsteel/

And since I don't know where from, and don't have the money to, get woods like Alder and maple, I was wondering if spruce is a good material to buy a simple lap steel out of. I found some spruce at the local hardware store, it has some knots in it..is that a bad thing? The size of the wood is 59 millimeters high, 156 mm wide and 1 meter in length..do you think it is a good idea to use this material?

BTW..using teak as veneer strips to cover the control cavity..would that be a good idea? or teak for the whole body?