Natman

"if you whack the lever so that each time it skips the middle position, it will work."

That's what I was hoping! I'll give it a go and report back. Thanks a million Ivs

That's fantastic! I happen to have DPDT 3-way mini toggles and 3-Pole mini toggles (3PDT) so I'll go for the first one (which is what I was thinking of anyway). Now I noticed my DPDT's are on-on-on but my 3PDT's are on-off-on. Does that change anything for me? I'm *this close* to wiring this sucker up.

Oh one more thing, is that the hot lead coming off the top left lug on the first switch?

Hi all,

I'm not a total newb at wiring, but for some reason I can't seem to find the right wiring diagram for what I'm after in the usual places. The Duncan site definitely doesn't have it (not like this anyway).

Here's what I need:

For a 4-conductor humbucker (new Duncan P-Rails) I want to be able to get ALL 4 SOUNDS out of each pickup. If I got this right, I should be able to do it wit 2 mini switches (one on-on-on and one on-off-on). Because the coils are so different I want to be able to get all the sounds.

If I am not mistaken, I need: split (n coil) - series - split (s coil) wired on a on-on-on switch and the second switch (on-off-on) to choose series or parallel when the first switch is in the middle.

Can you help me? I'd love to get this wired up this weekend!

Thank you so much

Brilliant! I kept trying to figure out how to clamp it from the inside without gluing or screws, but that's a great compromise. Now to decide what to use. Maybe a little spring mechanism with foam pads.... I like I like! Thanks

I have to figure out a way to get 2 mini switches on my Hamer Newport and I would really prefer not to drill into it. So I thought there might be a way to get them mounted on something that would fit inside the guitar, with the switches sticking out of the f-hole. Does anyone have an idea how I might pull this off?

Hey Rich, thanks for your help! Here are pics of 4 pieces, the worst are the top one and the bottom, though it's hard to tell from the pics. The top one has a knot which is shrinking away (and the fungus/rot around it is advanced) the bottom one has worm holes. They vary in thickness from about 7/8" to the thickest at 2 1/4" (2nd down). So I should emphasize that the top & bottom ones couldn't be cut without falling apart! It's VERY soft and even the middle 2 pieces can be dented with my finger nail. It's hard to tell where the defects are in these pictures, they just blend into the pattern

Post a picture of the wood. I have always resawn my spalt with no stabalizing. Then I stabalize after it is sawn. If the spalt is so soft it cannot be resaw, I am not sure I would use it (mind you I have resaw pretty soft spalt with no major problems). You always get a bit of "fallout" when sawing, but you resaw spalted wood a little thicker than it will be when you use it. That way you are able to clean up the surface a bit after it has been stabalized.

I have never used vac. and pressure to draw out air and help force CA or Epoxy deeper. Thinned slow set Epoxy, or thin CA has always been fine for me (if more was required I would probably opt. not to use that wood. I would hate to sneeze and lose a chunk of my guitars top).

CA does heat up when you use a lot of it. Vapors are nasty nasty stuff also. Use it outside preferably away from doors and windows, on a breezy day.

Peace,Rich

Hi all, total newb here, 1st post. I registered because I found useful information about stabilizing spalted maple in some Google searches. I have about 5-6 pieces of heavily spalted maple which needs to be bookmatched. The problem is, the wood is so punky, I can't cut it without first stabilizing somehow.

I have read about the CA method and the epoxy method, and I'm leaning towards the CA because I think it will finish nicer, maybe cure harder (?). However, a luthier friend of mine says that the CA will become hot enough to burn the wood if I use a large quantity! And I really need good penetration; all my boards are about 1" thick.

So here are my questions:

1) Has anyone here tried applying pressure to force the CA into the pores?

2) Can I slow down the curing to allow the CA to penetrate better? Maybe in a cold ice bath? Maybe add acetone or other solvent to dilute the CA?

All of my pieces are fairly big and REALLY soft. There are even a couple of cracks in some pieces but the black ink lines look incredible. I have been trying to inform myself for over a year now since I really can't afford professional stabilizing (which all uses pressure chambers).

Thank you so much and sorry if this topic has been discussed to death! It's just that my pieces are pretty unique and I don't want to destroy them.