SonofaMesa

Bookmatching isnt perfect becasue one has to cut, sand, and plane the veneer down. As such, the two sides diverge from the point at which they would match. Look at a piece of wood. Is the grain exactly the same on one side as the other? No. Thats why bookmatching isnt perfect.

My theory is that a guitar is meant to be viewed from a distance. Say 4 ft at least. At that distance, you really cant tell.

Figured woods have bvery active grain, so it may seem like they match less. Something like cherry with fine grain may be less noticeable.

Well, in new, I mean I just built it. I know it could be anything, but I was wonderingif the characteristics give any indication of whether I have a "master problem"

Here is a thought: The switch is a pit different that what I am used to. It only has three lugs and I dont see an obvious ground lug. It is a three way, and there are two on one side and a middle one on eht other, but no obvious ground any suggestions?

Hello all.

I am having a problem with setting up a new guitar. When I take me hands off the guitar, it is staticy from not being grounded, when I touch the strings, this goes away. Still, there is no sound coming from the pups. It doesnt even make noise when the strings touch the magnets. Any ideas on where I should start?

I dont think my arms are long enough.

For a good metal sound, you could use a maple neck thru and basswood wings. basswood dents a bit easy for me but beyond that itll mellow the maple a bit. Go for it.

Damn dude. How does someone actually go about playing a 6 string bass?

Correct.

Very expensive. Same goes for stuff like Black Locust. Its just not economically viable.

Another thing to consider is that bandsaws rarely cut straight. In that I mean that the blade is not setup perfectly and one typically has to hold the piece being cut at an angle for the cut itself to be straight.

Im thinking of making a jig for the tablesaw for my next guitar.

The only time Id use basswood is on a neck through with a maple neck.

Glue is fine for the actual body pieces, but if you are doing a neck through, Id highly reccomend a spline.

I didnt think a shim would work, as you did not say that you ran out of travel on your bridge. Id reccomend some sort of fret leveling or radiusing. That sounds like its your problem to me. That or deal with it. Higheractions tend to sound better and lots of god playres have used them.

In my experience, Ebony and Rosewood glue easy enough. With cocobolo, you just need to wipe it down with acetone before hand and itll work with titebond.

Hey all. Just thought Id throw i my .02.

First, if you are using wood for a guitar, dont bother with Titebond II and III. II is a little thin and II isnt worth the extra price. II isnt and stronger than I.

Secondly, a couple splines would be even better for joining the body. Then again, if you dont want to have to buy any hardwood...

Hold on there buddy. Noone said he was the most skilled. But King? Yes.

Im currently using 6/4 with a neck thru for a guitar. If you cant find the dimensions, a nck thru may be the answer. Oddly enough, I have access to a 12" wide board...

Abve:

Looks good. Ill pot my own pics once I gt all the finishing work done. Im currently sanding all the tearout from a cherry crotchwood veneer.

Ha! I use my fingernails.

Titebond isnt as good most everything else. Its better. Seriously though, it works awesome in my experience and I remember reading a strength of bond test where it was among the best. Titebond II is a little thin and Titebond III is waterproof and what not.

If it is cherry, its sapwood.

Interesting thing though. Cherrys about as stable as maple. Structurally, theyre pretty similar. All this and cherry is about 2/3 as hard.

My current project is a Walnut-Cherry neck with a walnut body and a cherry crotchwood veneer. Yum!

Spokeshaves are for pansies. Use a drawing knife. I think thats whats its called. Anyway... Use it.

You need to run the numbers for neck angle before you can tell. Im not familiar with the height of a Floyd, so I cant say. There are threads here and there are resources online. Use them and see if you can get your guitar without a neck angle. It may be difficult or simply not worth it to recess, depending on your situation. Its ok to have the neck too thick and have to chop some off. Whn you are shaping the neck, youll appreciate the lee-way. At least I did. Overall, my guess is that 1.25 is too small.

Itd be thicker than a SG. Me thinks about as thick as a Les Paul. On the other hand, you may want to take measures to limit the neck angle. As I recall, I took .5 in off of my most recent project. That plus about an inch for neck thickness leaves about nothing. If you are good that may be enough. Still, Id probably consider using a fender bridge or recessing a tune o matic.

MDF is more dimensionally stable than plywood, in tha it doesnt flex too well, but over time it can creep and failures tend to be a bit more catastrophic.

Did mine on a jointer. Me spoiled. Took 5 min. I spent more time marking and drawing than I did working.

I dont have the bucks to buy all new stuff. Id like to just switch from one to another. Im going to see if the musicstore will sell me the bushings alone.

Hey all. I dont want to tear my current guitar apart and I was wondering how the tuneomatic bridge and a suitable stop tailpiece would be installed. From looking at my guitar (Epiphone G-400) it looks like they are both post and bushings. To move these, one would just have to buy new bushings and glue them in. Correct? Any advice welcome. Thanks.