Ar-Pharazon

Thanks curtisa, that looks like the best solution so far

Not sure how you are measuring, and it is not easy to be extreamly accurate with most rules, you can easily be off 1 mm( the fret itself is 2 mm wide and your string may very well not break dead on center). 1mm will not put you 1/2 step out(unless you meant 1/2 cent). From what you say, your action is a little on the high side. This should require a little extra length on the strings to comp. Which would bring your extra length that you have measured closer to being correct. What you are describing is not making sense(is what I am getting at).

A full accurate set up would be a good idea. Nut height, check fret level, set relief, action(I am not sure how high you have it set, but very high action will cost in tuning accuracy), and a fresh set of strings. If you do not have the proper tools or are not confident. You would be best served taking it to a professional.

Peace,Rich

I understand all of what you are saying, but to be honest I think it will take more than simple set-up. As I have said before, the nut is not the issue here, as capo'ing the 1st fret gives 'exactly' the same intonation problems, down to the same tuner reading. As it is currently set up, the action is now the lowest it will go without buzzing, the neck is close to straight (0.38mm [rounded] between the bass string on the 7th fret and the fret when the string is depressed at fret 24) all to make sure that the string distance is not the issue. I know it doesn't make sense, unless its the bridge that is the problem...

Oh, and I was wrong about the intonation being worse.. checked it again using a proper tuner this time and its still out but its only 1-1 1/2%... still annoying though....

Following up on the "manufacturer's defect" theme--

What is the measurement from the nut to the 12th fret, and then from the 12th fret to the high E saddle (fully forward)?

the total length is 64.7cm or 647 mm, and to the middle of 12th is 32.25 (322.5mm) by my reckoning that means that I am about 1mm lacking... which is a pain. At the moment I am seriously considering a visit to the city, to a luthier, because, after redoing the relief on the neck, the intonation actually got slightly worse.

You'll have a hell of time doing that...the speakers are usually "voiced" in combo amps to colour the sound and add character. You'd be better off with a keyboard amp!

Yeah I know, I just thought someone might have had some sort of inside info on the thing...I managed to get the full notes the the recording sessions from master of puppets by asking similar questions about Lars drums mic'ing elsewhere on the net. Fleming Rasmussen was the one who eventually posted up the records he had kept of the sessions...

anyhoo... the search continues...

You'd be better off not worrying about things like that. You should be more concerned with making it sound good, regardless of frequency response or amp/pedal settings.

Well if you can get a good mesa boogie mark IV sound out of a bandit I'd like to hear it...obviously I'm be facetious there but what you don't seem to get is that I already have my good sound... I switch between a Marshall JCM 800 sound, a Fender twin reverb sound and a Mark IV sound during the set. I can't take all these amps around with me and my Bandit is the most portable amp I have so I figured until I get my Atomic amp I would still try and play. Our band is anything but one dimensional and part of this is to do with the guitar sound. Any purist knows that your not going to play any funk or blues with a Mark IV and in the next song you are certainly not going to be attempting palm muted power chords with a fender twin. Compromise is not an option.

What I am trying to do is make it sound transparent... because good depends on what type of music you are playing... if you are playing a kyuss song it hardly calls for sparkling treble refinement.

This sounds pretty straightforward. All I want it to reproduce the sound that my zoom g2 is producing through my amp... yes I know there are better amps on the market for this (I am looking at buying an Atomic Reactor 50w soon), but that doesn't help me with present gigging. Does anyone know what the entire frequency response of the Peavey Bandit 112 is?

I am already aware of the power amp input at the back of the amp, that bypasses the preamp... but the speaker is EQing just as much. If someone knows exactly how each of the following is shaping my sound, I would be most appreciative:

-the preamp with knobs either at 0 or at 12 o'clock

-the power amp

-the Sheffield 1230 speaker

You should put a capo on the first fret, than tune and do your intonation checking. That way you can see if it's the nut or not.

Good thing you mentioned that... just tried it there and both B and E are still half a note out... I also noticed that it looks like the bridge is pointing towards the tailpiece just slightly... could it be that it somehow managed to get bent?

seems like the real culprit isn't the nut, even though it may be part of the problem.

Thanks both of you for your time... I suspected it might be the nut before I posted because I did search before asking...but I thought I would ask anyway, which means its off to mr luthier...

yeah its basically sharp up to 12 and flat past 12. The guitar is new so there is no fretwear at all (they are still polished and shiny) and I just put on new strings to see if that would help.

Intonation issues are caused by pressing the string down to the fret, which can pull the string sharp. Compensating at the bridge makes up for it. But the bottom line is that with higher action you are more at risk of pulling the string too sharp. Since TOM bridges don't have as much "travel" as some other styles of bridges, it might not be able to sufficiently compensate.

I have 2 TOM guitars, with medium action and "light" (10-52) strings, and no compensation issues. So it's not necessarily JUST the bridge, but it CAN be a contributing factor depending on the rest of your setup.

How would you describe your specific intonation problems? IOW, how have you identified that there's a problem? During the intonating process, or while you're playing chords?

Ok sorry for not being clear... it certainly isn't to do with pulling sharp... the intonation is actually flat at fret 12 and the bridge intonation insert is as far forward as the screw will allow... I use 10-52 strings and I can get all but the high B and E correctly intonated. Hope that gives you a clear picture.

Personally, I think it should be ok as long as you make sure that the tuning is going to remain stable. You might want to try flipping the strings so that the ball ends are at the tguner end.. that way, as long as you have trimmed the strings to a suitable length, you should have very little in the way of string slip on the tuners.

http://www.cs.auckland.ac.nz/~shane/rockgu...s/floydrose.jpg

I got myself a reissue 84 BC Rich NJ Classic Bich (please no comments on my taste in guitars)... anyhoo, I like the action pretty high for the sake of the dynamics and tone, but I have found that the intonation on this thing is almost impossible to get right. Given that I have never owned a non-trem guitar before, is this a standard gripe with this type of bridge (given that the nut is also variable compared to a locking floyd)? given that I am not going to touch the nut, is there anything I can do about this, or should I just find a good luthier (hard to come by in Brisbane).

wow more aussies are springing up every day....

might i suggest you measure a little more presicly than cm's, millimetres perhaps, even then you get 647.7 mm scale lengths, so i recon your best be would be to go imperial ibanez use a 25.5 inch scale and AFAIK BC Rich is the same, all that varies is the neck pocket and bridge location, depending on which has the longer bit where will determine whether you need to take some of the neck or indeed add some. if you arent confident doing this get a cabinet maker to do it for ya ive found some to be more than happy to do smal things like that.

thats my 2c

luke

Maybe you didn't pickup how lazy I am... I just rounded in my head because it was easier to type... now thats lazy... anyhoo this was one of those 'least work require' questions, because in all honesty, I could have just gone and tried it myself and found out all this info that has been posted.

I think someone better close this thread befor it turns form an odd question into inane drivel.

If you need to move it up, you can also even cut the end of the neck heel off.

Carefully, of course, without disturbing the fretboard, but I did that once.

Just trying to make you aware that you don't always have to move the bridge, that the neck also can be moved/altered to suit the intonation.

Removing wood from the heel would make it even more neccesary to move the bridge. At the moment the full string length overshoots the bridge by about an inch(its roughly 64 cm give or take intonation). That is what I meant earlier. I would have to add wood to the neck to get the right distance if I were to only alter the neck.

It really is too much effort... I think I will just get hold of another bc rich neck on ebay, they aren't that hard to find.

Thanks for "being clear" but I do realise that... I have built 4 guitars since I joined this forum... I'm not a complete newbie. This was more about where the neck would attach and how much give the floyd rose intonation would allow. In this case, it would not be enough without blocking up the route and repositioning the whole bridge.

Well, I suppose that answers my question then... its a good inch out. thanks for putting up with my ineptitude

As to the whole overhang issue, I worked out that the distance would have been right had it been an RG 320DX neck; solid all the way up. Thats why I was baffled by your reply, Nitefly.

Thats what i was worried about to begin with... by big overhang, how long do you mean? this one is 28mm from where the base ends = last 2 frets (from an RG-550 of some kind... letter looks like an R or P)

I know this is going to sound like sacrilege, but I got hold of a BC Rich Bich body with routing for an original floyd, and given that I already have a spare Wizard neck lying around, I thought I might match them up.

I know that the Bich has a different neck scale to all the RGs (this is a neck with a fretboard overhang of frets 23 & 24), but what are people’s thoughts on the likelihood of this working?

I don't want to bang on about one product, but I have found Selleys Plasti-bond to be the best filler for guitar things, as it can be stained to almost the same colour as the surrounding wood; and it is drillable and strong. I only say this because the task of plugs and inserts is always a fiddly one and it is not easy to make a tight fitting plug that is redrillable, especially as using even the same kind of wood results in 'drill guiding'.

My Washburn MG44tremolo anchors are pulling up out of the guitar body when I tighten the screws. I've been doing this with the guitar strung. Is this wrong?

More importantly, how do I re-anchor them? They're not leaning, and they don't just pull out by hand. Can I pull them out and glue them in? How would I get them out safely, if so? Any help is really appreciated, since this is my only guitar at the moment.

try here: previous forum post on inserts

Gluing them in may be an option, or it may not be. That will depend on the state of the holes from which the inserts came. If they are too worn, just fill them in with the correct sized dowel or some of that plastic filler that you can drill (called Plasti-bond in Australia) and then redrill. pretty simple really.

Love it! My first build (10th grade shop) was a Bich

Nice, did it turn out well?

I like woodgrain way more than a paint job and your brother did a fine burn job for you. Just curious how many wood burner tips did he go through? I had a friend do some burning for me on a bass http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...topic=15615&hl= He went through so many tips we had to start making our own, we ground the heads of screws down to a point and used them.

I actually don't know what he used... I think they may have been similar to a simple soldering iron type tip as the lines are not uniform in width...

"Shouldn't the Floyd be parallell to the body or haven't you set it up yet?"

Yeah, got the local guitar shop to set it up and got it back like that... won't be doing that again

To marksound: I'm sorry but I've not been keeping up with rule changes since I joined (2004)... plus they were supposed to be offsite links... but they didn't come out right... sorry I'm not a forum geek.

To aidlook: it not supposed to be particularly pretty, the main aim was to get a functional guitar out of it... plus, all I had was a router, a chisel and a hand-drill, so I think it went pretty well (I have no workshop to work in and I'm on a student budget... the only reason I got the Evos is because they were going for AU$70 for the pair...so all up the guitar had cost about AU$120... not exactly luxury)