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nollock

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Posts posted by nollock

  1. Fret Caul Idea / Question

    in Tools and Shop Chat

    Posted · Edited by nollock

    Brilliant Jay! Hehe, should of read the stew mac info, it didn't occur to me that I could use a bench drill. Anyway after reading the other thread I just found those cheap arbor presses in the uk, so might get one of them anyway. It was the price of the arbor press that was putting me off tbh.

    cheers

    chris

  3. My New Router Discovery --too Late!

    in Tools and Shop Chat

    Posted

    idch: As you're in France I assume ordering form the UK would be no problem?

    couple of uk retail sites:

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/category.asp?cat_id=207673

    http://www.mackay.co.uk/acatalog/Routers__...ccessories.html

    couple of manufacturer sites: Mabey find out if what you're after is avaible from the big brands?

    http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/profinder/

    http://www.freud-tools.com/routerbits.html

    I think Southpa's advice is the best though. Try and find a 1/4 inch collet for your router. (Using 8mm router bits is going to narrow your options a hell of alot.) Axminster's techincal dept is very good in this respect, tell them what you want and they will usualy find it for you. I managed to get a replacment collet for my old Makita router, its been discontinued for around 12 years so I wasn't hopefull, but they found me one. Wasn't cheap but still a fraction of the cost of buying a new router.

    chris

  4. Fret Caul Idea / Question

    in Tools and Shop Chat

    Posted

    Hi, i dont realy want to fork out for a fret press but have read its the best way to get the frets well beded in. So couldn't i just order a caul, make a small caul holder / arbor type thing that I could use to hammer the frets in with? Like this...

    http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...sing_Arbor.html

    Ie, rest it on the fret and tap it with a hammer?

    Should be better than just using a fret hammer shouldn't it? (At least for a newb like me)

    cheers,

    chris

  5. Hey Kevan...do You Give Everyone Such A...

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted · Edited by nollock

    Imo Kevan could have been a bit more diplomatic. I mean the guy opens with "I am sure this has been asked a million times" which is not a statment of belief its just one of those things you say, tentetive steps into a new forum, an ice breaker. And Kevan beats him over the head with it. If he is so easily angered then he should not be a moderator. It was the guys first post, and perhaps now also his penultimate. Of course the newsbies need to be told the rules but if its done in a way which scares them off then its a bad thing imo. Give them chance ffs.

    chris

  6. Whats The Compromise?

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    IMHO it's all nonsense. A vibrating string has a bunch of harmonics, plenty more than the first 10 are still audible. So a conservative example of 10 harmonics all with differant wavelengths, each one has an equal number of nodes to its harmonic number, so the fundamental has no nodes, the 1st harmonic has 1, the 2nd harmonic has 2, ect... By the time you get to the 10th harmonic, there is already a total of 55 nodes on the string, i guess around 35 individual nodes as some will be on the same spots as other nodes. So asuming a roughly even spread thats 1 for every 3/4 inch. Where ever you put the pick up and fret the string there will be a node over the pickup. And thats not even counting the fact that the magnet field of the pickup is probably an inch or two wide. Which anyway will counteract the effect of the nodes.

    If you measured the string vibration at the exact point of one of these nodes you would indeed find that the harmonic the node belongs to is absent from the sound. But a pickup is not a single point, it is a wide field, and that node is going to move about depending one where you fret the string.

    So there may well be people who swear that they have experienced the effect of these nodes but all I have ever seen is subjective opinion. They may well have experinced some differances from pickup placement, but that could be for a whole bunch of other reasons. The node placment theory doesn't stand up to even basic scrutiny, it has more holes than a Phlagarian Multiwhore from the planet Bonk.

    just my 2c :D

    chris

  9. String Tension

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    IMO it's the trem. On the LP the strings are seperatly fixed to a solid bridge, therefore any increase in tension is almost all taken up by the string itself. On a strat the strings are fixed to a floating bridge. Increase the tension on a single string and some of that extra load will be balanced out. You will still need the same tension to hit a specific note but the strings will feel less tight as you have to move them further to achieve that extra load. Some of the load is lost via the springs and other strings. My bet is that it is of greater effect than an extra 1/2" of scale length.

    For example, if you tuned the whole guitar up 1 whole tone you would expect the trem to lift somewhat, you would actualy need to have turned your tuners a bit further than if the trem had stayed solid. In respect to string bending that extra movement would be felt as less tension.

    chris

  12. Online Cad / Cnc

    in Tools and Shop Chat

    Posted

    Figure some folks might find this usefull...

    Basicly you download their cad software, design what you want and it gives you a quote! Software is pretty easy to use (do the tutorial first) and while it is obvioulsy expensive for small quanitys is quite cheap (brass & aluminium is anyway) for large quantitys. You can get your parts chromed and stuff aswell. Seems like a briliant idea!!

    http://www.emachineshop.com/

    chris

  13. Tite Bond Question

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    Hi, I glued up a body blank of mahogany back and a black limba top. When i cut out the body shape i was fidling with a small offcut and breaking it up in my fingers and it split apart at the glue join. So I tested another offcut, and it is fairly solid but but if forced apart with a chisell it does pull off some bits of either wood here and there but mostly follows the glue join (about 60% of the time). I aint to worried about the body falling to bits but I am wondering if my glueing technique is dodgy cause previous woodworking errors when I have had to split apart a PVA woodglue join has resulted in splintering the wood to bits, no nice split at the join.

    Might I be clamping the wood too tight?

    Should the glue be left on the wood for a few minutes before clamping?

    cheers,

    chris

  19. Bolt On Neck

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    Hi, from what I can tell "bolt on necks" are actualy "screw on necks". Do any manufacturers actualy use bolts? Couldnt the neck be attached with bolts thru the actual neck and body? Mabey if a small plate was fitted under the fingerboard with the bolts in, then the nuts could be fitted at the back of the body? (ok not ideal but bear me out) A screw is going to pull much more at the poiint where it goes into the wood. And where it actualy penetrates the wood it may cause a slight buldge which will affect the contact area. Where as having the neck and body sandwitched between two plates will result in more even presure across the join. Hence better contact and better sustain?

    Anyone tried this?

    Or is it a daft idea :D ?

    chris

  23. Carved top body

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    Hi, whats the best way to carve the top? I tried out a few ideas on an old bit of wood and found a spokeshave to be the easiest to use. Just need to be carefull to alwasy go with the grain. I tried an angled jig with a router which was good for getting a consistent angle but not for geting a smooth contour. To much moving and angle adjusting seems to be required. Very fidly.

    Anyway, the bit of wood I tested out on had been previosly painted and I found the paint incredibly helpfull in that i could see clearly where the end of the carve was. I had a strong paint edge contour to work to. Kind of like if you were carving plywood you would see the contours through the seperate splices of the ply.

    So i was wondering if there is anyway to use this to carve a body? Is there somthing that could be aplied to the wood that wouldnt soak in but would act in a similar way?

    Mabey its a daft idea but i did find it realy helpfull.

    Any sugestions or do most people just us a spokshave and patience?

    chris

  25. fretboard binding

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    Hi, i am putting an ebony fretboard on my geetar. I dont want binding, or at least visible binding. I also dont want to see the bit of the fret that is pushed into the fretboard. (Whats that called?) So i figure i can do it 3 ways...

    1. Do the frets as you would when you pre bind the fretboard, then fill the end of the slots with black wood filler of some sort.

    2. Bind the fretboard with ebony. Maybe buy a second fretboard blank and make my own binding strips?

    3. Bind the fretboard with black binding. Maybe find some plastic binding that looks like ebony?

    any comments or sugestions of which will be the best option?

    cheers,

    chris

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