imott

Nice! Are you painting in the shower?

What did you use for teh stand it is on? Chairs are just too short...I did see a parts stand on wheels at Menards for like $50 that could be used. I also found my dock guy can get me a Winch Wheel for around $30. I'm going to check one out and see if it is sturdy enough. Then I'll be up and running.

I like your jig however!

Yup.

KTM-9 in the shower anytime!!!!

I am wheelchair bound and spraying anything upright is a pain. So this is how I do it.

Roll in shower makes it easy!

That is one of them drum machine stands.

I just found an old rotisserie motor from an old grill...Maybe I will integrate it into this design!!!

I will be adding an overspray collector soon.

Introducing...

The Guitar Rotisserie!!!

wouldnt they cancel eachother out? im confused

To control separate pickups.

Ok... I kindof did the math this way and I think it should work out ok...

Scale length divided by the difference of the 21st fret from the nut and the total scale length would equal the approximate ratio of where on the scale the neck must be placed...

So, I ran a few tests...

25.5 (scale length) - 17.919 (distance of 21st to nut) = 7.581/25.5 = 3.363

24 (scale length) - 16.865 (distance of 21st fret to nut) = 7.135/24 = 3.363

24.75 - 17.392 = 7.358/24.75 = 3.363

28 - 19.676 = 8.324/28 = 3.363

Doesn't this mean that if the heal of the neck of a 21 fret guitar (regardless of the scale length) will most likely bolt into the same place?

Hey Mike,

Not 100% sure I've figure this out yet, I mean your post. What my mind keeps telling me is that number you keep getting is just like a ratio of where the 21st fret is in the scale used. I can't find any way to give it any meaning in terms of this repair, but maybe I'm just not seeing it. I'm tired, so I'm probably missing something important here. But if it is what I think, it really doesn't translate because it remains constant and where you put the heal can be changed in many ways like having an overhang on the fretboard and such, the ratio will remain, but wouldn't be correct.

One issue I'd verify before buying here is fretboard overhang, because if the fretboard has an overhang, then the distance to the bridge is going to be shorten even more, making your problem even worse and I think Rick has it the right idea here, you need to get that nut 25.5" inches away from that bridge period and if you just bolted it up now you'd still be short as Rick pointed out, .446 or .45 rounded as Rick said. If you can move up the heal just less than a half inch, then you'd be fine. If anything, maybe you can just fill the neck pocket and reroute it a .446 of an inch shorter, hopefully you'd still be able to use the same holes in the back of the guitar for bolting on the neck. I just wouldn't want to leave a half inch gap at the end of the neck and the neck pocket, but maybe you can just glue in a small half inch piece to the bottom of the pocket to fill it, instead of filling the whole thing. But I think that's the solution you'll have to use to decide, can you move the neck up .446". It may require more surgery than may be worth it or maybe you can find some other solution. Best of luck and keep us posted. Good to see you around Mike, hope all is going well for you in the job. Jason

The fret spacing on the neck is fixed at what ever scale it was cut. PERIOD.

Fret spacing is a a function of scale length. And, therefore, might not take well to being messed with...

I have a customer who has a 24" scale guitar with a 21 fret neck installed, but he wants it to have a 25.5" scale 21 fret neck installed instead. Before I order the neck and end up with a headache in the shop trying to make this work, is this a possibility?

Go to stewmac.com and find the fret calculator.

Reaper

www.reaper.fm

Loads of free plugins.

generally this is associated with a parametric equalizer...so pretty much as borge describes but often interacting with another control...basically it boosts or cuts in the mid frequencies creating a kind of hump. So if it is thicker it is a more midrange kind of effect like HBs or a santana type of full midrange effect. The ooposite "scooped" effect is more associated with metal...to me it can sound like a be in a jar...but it has it's uses. Interestingly, it can also be a bit like a set wha pedal...the so called "half cocked" wha sound that has been used a lot over the years...

good to see someone exploring what their amp has to offer in terms of tone shaping instead of relying so much on the punny little filter cut tone controls in the average guitar, pickup replacements or preset digital models...remember that a setting that works well with one guitar may work badly for another.

It also highlights the potential so neglected with guitars to have some of this tone shaping potential on board with active electronics...and yes, the only way to get boosts and this kind of control is to put a battery in the guitar, but typically these things draw very little power (unlike a sustainer for instance) and have become quite popular on the bass scene...for some reason guitar players don't bother...but, there's no real need I suppose with so much tone shaping available in effects and amps particularly.

Go man go!!!

So many types of guitar amp/settings. No matter how granular!

FYI...

This IS an accurate description of Tiger.

TIGER

I worked for Jerry a few times as an employee of Bill Graham. I was fortunate enough thrice to be close enough to Tiger to be asked to hand 'her' over 'here'. I was quick enough back then to take a gander at the build. So I KNOW!

You are doing GREAT work so far...

Just not really a Tiger.

PEACE

BTW...I own the #8 Alembic Tribute!!!

Got lucky on a one-time deal!

Nice axe!!! Just what I was thinking about!!!

What are the fretboard dimensions?

And what bridge did you use?

Thanks!

dare i?

no epoxy makes a terrible finsih; it doesnt buff to a sheen and it feels very sticky to the touch, i remember another forum member who did an epoxy finish on a guitar and if i remember correctly he said he was refinishing it

As an undercoat, it is great. Gives the body that extra hardness to protect against dents. Put a coat of KTM-9 or some other clearcoat over it.

That's an awesome find, I bookmarked the page, gonna read through the whole thing later, but that looks like a cool idea.

I suggest printing it out. The actual URL at the MIMF was dead and I had to hunt it down! I just printed it and downloaded the plan JPEG just incase!!!

I think if you look at most situations in instrument building, adding a pin over your router is the wrong way to go.

You would be better off with a shopfox overarm router base ($$$) or use the plans provided in the MIMF forums. This way you can see what your doing since the pattern goes under your work.

MIMF forums...Where? Been searching.

Thx

Here it is:

Popular Mechanics Pin Router Plans

So far, i've read about and watched a few ways to do it:

Spokeshav, which is my personal favorite

Router template, which to me looks like a circus ride

Belt Sander, which looks like it'll do a good job, but seems time consuming and doesn't really get into all those little areas

Orbital Sander, which seems to work okay

Chizel, which worked for me, but i think its kinda iffy, as much more wood can come off due to grain shape, inner faults, etc.

and

Microplane, which is the newest one i learned about just surfing around in this forum.

I'm sure there's lots of other ways, but which way do you like the most?

ShopBot CNC Router.

Haas VF-3 VMC

Touche!

You probably have a higher RPM spindle than I do...

18,000 RPM variable

So far, i've read about and watched a few ways to do it:

Spokeshav, which is my personal favorite

Router template, which to me looks like a circus ride

Belt Sander, which looks like it'll do a good job, but seems time consuming and doesn't really get into all those little areas

Orbital Sander, which seems to work okay

Chizel, which worked for me, but i think its kinda iffy, as much more wood can come off due to grain shape, inner faults, etc.

and

Microplane, which is the newest one i learned about just surfing around in this forum.

I'm sure there's lots of other ways, but which way do you like the most?

ShopBot CNC Router.

Haas VF-3 VMC

Touche!

So far, i've read about and watched a few ways to do it:

Spokeshav, which is my personal favorite

Router template, which to me looks like a circus ride

Belt Sander, which looks like it'll do a good job, but seems time consuming and doesn't really get into all those little areas

Orbital Sander, which seems to work okay

Chizel, which worked for me, but i think its kinda iffy, as much more wood can come off due to grain shape, inner faults, etc.

and

Microplane, which is the newest one i learned about just surfing around in this forum.

I'm sure there's lots of other ways, but which way do you like the most?

ShopBot CNC Router.

I have made a simple router table and I am sliding the neck blank slowly along a fence, just a few centimetres at a time then backing off and going again, just using fingertip pressure,

I hope you mean MILLIMETERS. A few CENTIMETERS is an INCH!

Your cuts should be no more than 1/8 inch deep at a time for a 1/4 inch bit.

I used an angle grinder with a standard metal cutting disc, bit quicker than a dremel I'd say.

Yep, I guess that's what I'll do too, thanks

I clamped the part of the file I wanted to keep in a bench vise and smacked it with a hammer. Nice and clean!

Ok my question is about all kinds of electric solid body guitars, tuneomatics, trems, and hardtail etc. Does it matter how far the bridge is away from the neck for proper playability?

Yes! The distance between the nut and the bridge are ABSOLUTELY critical. THis is what is called the scale length.

DON'T LOWER the chuck onto the table to push it back in place. The table is cast iron and not designed to handle that kind of stress. Ask me how I know.

-John

What's a replacement drill press table going for these days?

Well the string length is not the issue. It almost was and I thought I'd share that tidbit to others who are planning on using the ferrules with a TOM to consider the length of a string when figuring out where to put the ferrules on the top and back.

In your original post you said, "Make sure the strings can actually cover the distance they need to! From my high E string on the 6 in line headstock to the ferrule on the back of the guitar is about 2" short of a new string's length. A near miss."

Sounds like you were saying that the string was 2" too short. Pix?

It's recessed already...

Newb stepping in here...Thinking "Out-of-the-Box"...

Maybe recess the ferrules on the back bringing them closer to the front. Therefore, requiring less string.

PEACE

i

I agree that the neck angle is too much and as a result you will have a very tall bridge/saddle height. While this won't necessarily make it unplayable what it will do is add some extra rotational force to the soundboard via the bridge. Over time this will deform the top of the guitar more easily than a lower bridge height will. How much so depends on your bracing. If you have heavy bracing you will get more life out of it. If you braced it lightly you could find that the top deforms radically and within a short period of time. This will affect the tone of the guitar and it will ultimately affect playability when the top starts to dip and pulls the neck up. It's all about leverage and the higher string height equates to more leverage (pulling/rotating force on the bridge).

But the short answer is no it won't make it unplayable in the short term. In the long term you might have some more serious structural issues to deal with. So you just might end up resetting the neck in a couple of years anyway. It is not that difficult to remove a neck and if you plan to have this guitar for years you might want to just go ahead and do it right. Check out this article from Frank Ford. It might be easier than you think.

For what it's worth I shoot for a 1/2" bridge height when the guitar is complete. 5/8" seems too high but I have seen guitars like this. Not sure how they look after a few years though.

~David

This is what I am talking about!!!

PEACE

i

PS...Them in the mail!!! Thx Bro!!!

scale length on the padauk fretboard? I might be interested in it if it's 25.5"

Looks like he said it was 34" scale.

Yah, I read the post twice and overlooked it both time! Please excuse my stupidity!

I know...I read it 3 times before I caught it!!! If I was building a bass, I'd grab 'em!!!

scale length on the padauk fretboard? I might be interested in it if it's 25.5"

Looks like he said it was 34" scale.