jer7440

I think what you are suggesting is definitely possible, but what is your plan for tuners.

I agree with you about the steinberger tuners they really look goofy to me.

Dreamlandguitars is no more. Krazyderek posted that in the announcement section.

The machinest rule just has finer graduations. The machinest rule I have in front of me right now has 32nds and 64ths on one side and 50ths and 100ths on the other.

I think the black ink is actually a burn, and I assume that is the damage. Right?

MikeB,

Sweet playing man. You build great looking guitars and you can play them as well. Nice job.

Powder coat will be a good durable finish. You will have to break the trem down into all of its pieces and then you will want to strip of the original coating and clean up the rust.

One thing to watch out for with powdercoating is that it will fill up the threads in your screw holes. You should find some way to plug them or be ready to chase the threads out with the appropriate tap.

I wouldn't want to be anywhere around someone cutting glass in a milling machine. Way to brittle. And to echo what someone said above, with the flex of a guitar neck, glass would be a very poor choice.

Yeah better pic!

Does the trem acutally travel far enough to cause enough rotation in the pot. I may be wrong, but it seems to me that if the trem moves 1/4" to 3/8" that would be pretty extreme. I don't know if that little bit of travel can be translated into enough rotary motion for the pot? I could be completely full of it as well. Just thinking out loud.

I was able to get access to Solid Works. It is definitely not the end all for 3D guitar design. It is very powerful software, but the learning curve seems a little steep.

I tried to use it to redesign the neck for my LP project, and I was doing alright, but I can not get it to round over the back of the neck. I have tried everything imaginable to me and it just won't work. I was trying to add a volute to my current neck design. I gave up on solid works and went back to creating individual surfaces in mastercam.

I was asking this question as I wasn't sure how easy it is to position the CNC on/in the fretboard.

Meaning....if I have a pre-radiused pre-slotted fretboard.......somehow I have to make sure the CNC cuts rights were I want it to. Meaning CNC in relation to fretslots.

The other way around.....I could place fretboard in CNC machine.....center everything......but have some room to manouver up or down the board.....

And then with nicely routed vine....I could position fretslots in right place by hand.

If you are going to cnc this you will need to have it all laid out in a cad drawing. When you do your cad you will have all you fret slots and your inlay design in the drawing. At this point you will be able to make all of you placement adjustments for your inlay.

If you buy a preradiused, preslotted board from stewmac or something, make sure you do your cnc work before you taper the board. This will make it much easier to set the board up square to the travels of the cnc machine.

Once your board is setup square to the machine travels, all of the cnc programming will be based from one corner of the board, most likely on the nut edge as thats where all the fret measurments are taken from. So if you fret placement in you cad drawing is accurate to your preslotted board everything should come out dandy.

I don't know if I answered your question very well, if not let me know and I will try to clarify.

Do you have a cnc? If not who is doing this for you? Just curious. Please keep us posted on your progress with this.

Have any pics of your sample?

If you do a good job of the setup the cnc will give you perfectly spaced fret slots. It's an awfully small cutter though.

100% better than the first one. Sounds pretty good considering you plugged your guitar processor into the mic input of your computer.

Congrats you 2! Great stuff!

It seems to me that to get the correct angle for the headstock using a compound miter saw, you would have to hold you stock perpendicular to the fence of the saw. That being said, if you made a jig to clamp the work to and you know your saw is cutting straight, I don't see why it would not work.

What is MEK? Is it hazardous? Why are the MEK dyes 1/2 the cost of the water soluable dyes?

I agree with guitar maestro, if you are going to bump your own thread you could at least answer the questions people asked you.

I am trying to get a neck model I like, to use for programing a CNC. I had one model that i created in mastercam, but after I cut a prototype on my cnc I realized it was to thin at the headstock joint. That's when I started trying to do it in SW. I like the volute I have so far, I just wish I could get the back of the neck right.

You could also sand a radius on the end of the neck to fit the radius your router bit leaves.

Just use a good sharp chisel.

Man, Solid Works is kicking my a$$! Here are some pics of the neck I am trying to model for my LP.

I for my life cant get that stupid thing to roung over the back of the neck. I am starting to get a little frustrated.

Seems like a pretty cool program. My GNX3 has a learn a lick thing on it, but that is only good for like a 10 or 15 second clip. It's cool to be able to slow down the whole song.

Lookin' very cool. Can't wait to see it done.

Dude,

That is frickin gorgeous! What is that finish? I can't wait to get my hands on some sweet wood like that.