jer7440

You're not pissing me off . I hate working with substandard equipment. I was just trying to suggest ways to make that saw work for you. I didn't realize you had broken the casting on one of them.

I'm with you I think rigid tools are pretty sweet. That sander you have, is that the one that is an oscilating spindle sander with a belt sanding attatchment? I saw that a the home depot by me an it was like $199.99 if you got it for $120.00 you got a good deal

Is maple burl like that a PIA to carve?

Hey man,

I don't think the Delta saw is necesarily a bad value, I just think the work you are trying to do with it is pushing to its limits. What kind of problems are you having with it? Are you breaking blades? When you are trying to cut 1 1/2 thick guitar bodies or necks on a small saw like this, you really need to go slow and let the blade do the work. If you try to push it too fast you'll blow the blade every time.

Another thing you might look into is getting a good quality blade. These low end tools tend to come with low end blades that don't cut so good. A good blade makes all the difference in the world!

This work can be done on small tools like yours (Drak does his bodies on a scroll saw). You just need to get a feel for what you saw can handle.

Dude, that last one by A M looks awsome!

dude nice selection of outlines! What needs to happen to get them into a dxf format?

Lots of guys here use car paint on their guitars, it looks great.

Hey,

If you get a paper drawing with some basic dimesions on it I can make a CAD drawing of it. Let me know

A$$talker... that's all ya need to say... A$$talker...

Actually, the blade they sent me clearly states "Made in U.S.A" on the package.. It was night and day compared to the original one.

The package was for sure made in the USA I bought some boots for work one time and the box said made in the USA. But when I got home and looked at the bottom of the boot , it said Made In China. So unless it was stamped into the blade, I wouldn't be so sure.

What's everyones beef with Ed Roman? Just curious, I read alot of ER bashing around here and I just wondered why.

If you use a hammer make sure the chuck jaws are all the way open, and put a piece of scrap wood between the chuck and the hammer so you don't peen over the metal of the chuck.

Cool, glad you got it. Rock on

Be sure to read the label on the loctite if you decide to go this way! The red variety is considered permanent and the only way to break it loose is to apply heat. I'm sure this would cure your problem, but if you ever want to get the chuck out of your drill press...

If you are spreading CA with your finger, wrap your finger in one of those cheap plastic sandwich bags. The kind you fold over to close. I used to do this when I built rc planes. Works like a million bucks. The CA doesn't stick to that kind of plastic.

Most varieties of stainless steel are non-magnetic (some of the 400 series are), but like Devon, all of the steel alloys I have encountered have been magnetic.

We will need some more info to help you. What kind of guitar are you trying to restring? Fixed bridge or trem? If it is a fixed bridge, do the strings seem to go into or through the body? Maybe a picture would help.

I had the behringer midi foot controller for a while, but I wasn't using it with another Behringer product. This is very powerful and versatile, but you need to be willing to spend some time learning how to set it up to do what you want. It would also help to have some understanding of midi and how it works.

I never really got much farther with it than using it to change presets on my Peavey tubfex, and using one of the foot pedals as a volume control. But it was capable of doing so much more. I was hoping for something a little more plug and play, but I'm just a slacker that way.

I know the 2 foot pedals and all the switches are assignable, meaning you can program them to do different things depending on preset and such. It is also capable of channel switching on an amp, say between clean and crunch. The part I wasn't patient enough with was figuring out how to program the pedal to tell my effect unit what to do, in a way that my effect unit liked.

I bought and sold my unit through Ebay, and it seemed like I bought it and sold it for around $100-$125. If you go this route, one question to ask is what is the firmware revision level of the unit. I know Behringer improved the firmware several times in these units and you will want to get the highest revision level. It seems like I was reading the reviews of this unit on harmony central and I found a Behringer forum or something where they had a whole section just for this unit. There was alot of talk on there about revision levels and what improvements went with them, as well as how to program different things. I remember several people saying they had purchased their pedals from retail stores and had recieved old firmware, or revision levels in their "brand new" units.

Try and find that forum (sorry I can't remember what it was, but check the reviews at harmony central) it will be a big help. This really was a great pedal, and I bet if you use it with another Behringer product it will be much easier going

I think Drak is trying to be the first member to win GOTM for 1 year straight! Nice work.

I think a big variable in bridge material would have to be, how hard is the material. If you take a piece of zinc diecast and hit the corner of it with a file, the file will cut into the material very easily, indicating a soft material. If you try the same test on a piece of steel, the steel will resist the file more than the diecast, indicating a harder material. Try this on a piece of hardened tool steel and the file won't even touch it, this is a very hard material. I would think that the softer a bridge material was, the more likely it would be to absorb vibration. Another way to look at this concept is this, If you hit a lead pipe ( assuming you could find one) with a hammer it makes a thud kind of noise and the pipe caves in. Lead is soft. If you hit a steel pipe with the same hammer, the hammer will ricochet (sp?) off leaving no mark on the pipe, and the pipe will ring and vibrate like a bell.

All of this is not to say that one material is better than the other, its just my explanation for the tonal variance.

DaveQ,

Will this technique work on a LP style guitar? My concern was being able to get the pickup close enough to the strings.

I thought about that as I was checking out, but I figured the discount was just on the bid price and not the shipping. That would have only been 0.50 and I figured it wasn't worth trying to email you and wait for a response and then go back to check out. I still feel like I got a great deal.

Thanks again

so when I put the old stuff (Washburn passive pickups) back, I substituted a 500k push/pull volume pot that I got from Stewmac months ago for the original factory push/pull pot.

He wasn't reusing the pot .

I don't think there is such a thing as a T connector for fiberoptics. If you want to light your fret markers with a fiber optic wire you will need one wire per marker you wish to light, if I'm not mistaken. if you look in the tutorial section there is a great tutorial on putting leds in a fretboard.

Check out this link

LED turorial

Dude,

I bought the black LP bridge from you. I got a great deal, and you shipped super fast .

Thanks alot

Most pencils use graphite instead of lead, so you can imagine the consistency of the solid graphite. In the injection molding business they use graphite to create electrodes. I've seen the mess this stuff makes when you machine it, imagine crushing a pencil "lead" into a fine powder and then blowing all around the room. I think when things are made of graphite like guitar necks, golf club shafts and what not, It is more of a composite than pure graphite.