jer7440

What kind of wood are you sunbursting? This video is a pretty nice tutorial on bursting with wipe on dye.

bursting with dye

okay! I guess it'll be the colour you had on your testpiece. It's going to look awesome!

Yes...that's the color I'm shooting for. Hopefully it will turn out good!

The body is all cut except for drilling the holes for the bridge post, string through holes and the hole for the output jack. I also needs a final sanding.

Here is an update.

the neck is done and fretted...just needs some truoil.

another neck pic

this was my first attempt...practicing the dye job. What do you think?

I need to mount the bridge and drill the string through and output jack holes. Finish sand and hopefully be ready to start finishing by the 4th of july!

Oh!...here is the truss rod cover

This pic sucks....but, oh well.

That guitar looks great! 2 days...man that movin. Looks like you have quite a nice stash of black limba leaning in the background there. I can't wait to see what thats for!

The little gap at the end shouldn't be a big deal, as long as the rest of the joint is nice and tight. Like you said the pick up with cover it.

For Mahogany, do most of you guys (a/o gals) just oil the necks, or is there some tried-&-tried way to pore fill and then oil for a super slick/fast neck? I am fine with just oiling it (or Waterlox or whatever). Just garnering opinions.

A lot of people here are using a product called Tru-Oil. It is made by the Birchwood Casey company and is intended to be a gun stock oil. From what I have read a common practice is to apply several coats of the oil with the appropriate drying time between coats. Then you wet sand, using the truoil as your lubricant. The resulting "slurry" is forced into the pores of the wood. Wipe away the excess and allow to dry. Apply several more coats of the truoil, polish and you're good to go.

Don't stop now! I think all Rich was saying was that there is a potential for failure, not a guarantee. Finisher her up and see what you get. Plus, what a great place to learn about binding and neck joints and all of that.

i have no idea what most of that is, but thanks. i am completly blind when it comes to that stuff. i wish i had/new about recording stuff.

here is my puppets video i did with one of those backing tracks, you can barley here it, but o well. and the guitar was so loud over the backing, i really couldnt keep perfect time with it, and messed up a few times. but o well.

puppets

Nice job.

Thanks a lot everyone. Plenty to think about. I will do some more experiments and report back.

Perry, any chance of getting a close up picture of those bridge pieces? Like you said, they don't seem to be too readily available. I was hoping I could machine something similar for myself. I was just wondering how the intonation was adjusted? Great guitar man. Thanks for all the videos and info.

Jeremy

Check this out.

black 3 way switch

If you click on my picture you can see the "quilted" patches are the really dark areas. Then there are some sort of wavy grain lines that run mostly vertical in the picture. They seem to stay brown when I would expect them to just be darker blue. Maybe my expectations are incorrect.

I did pre-wet the wood... and to be honest this test piece is not sanded very good. I just grabbed a piece and threw some dye on it to illustrate the problem.

hey Rich, I will try to explain as my lousy camera won't give me a good picture of it. The wood has the "quilt" type grain, but it also has "straight grain lines running through it. The straight grain lines don't seem to dye well. Here is a picture after all...a little blurry but...it shows my problem

see how the vertical running grain lines stay woody looking and not dyed? Is this normal and I'm just not seeing it? Do I just need to add more dye?

I've had this trouble several times with quilted maple. There seem to be areas of grain that just don't want to take dye. I am usind aniline dyes dissolved in water. I'm wiping directly onto the maple. Am I missing something? Do I just need to keep adding more dye until these areas take some color? Thanks.

Lookin good! What did you use to glue on the tolex?

That fretboard is very....ah...perky!

Hey check this out. AX84 theory document Look about 1/3 of the way down the main section of this page to where is says "Current Materials". The first item is the P1 theory document. Click on this and download the PDF file. This will get you started on how a very basic tube amp works. After you read this...check out the rest of the site....lots of good amp projects going on there.

Lmii has gold fretwire... supposed to be gold colored all the way through I believe.

Nice work. That's a pretty cool lookin pile of amps there as well

I had to counter bore the bridge post bushings on my LP also. I thought I was going to have to grind off the underside of the bridge itself...but it all worked out.

Very nice Daniel! I love the black line below your fretboard binding and the black line in your scarf joint. Very cool.

You should check out this guys web site. Hotley planes The planes with the steel bottoms dovetailed to the brass sides are very cool looking!

I agree the prices are high, and I could never justify such a tool, but for hand made quality like that I don't think the price is out of line. Precision metal work like that takes time.

Bosch makes routers for Craftsman? I didn't know that. I'm gonna have to see if my Craftsman router (which is my first router, my workhorse and just generally awesome) is one of them.

Yeah about all craftsman does is put their name on the tools these days. My buddy works for a company the designs and manufactures power tools and they are always pitching new stuff to craftsman and other companies. His company comes up with a design, and they make up some prototype, appearance model kind of stuff. Then they go and pitch it to the various tool companies. If the company buys the design, it will be on the store shelves in 6 months.