javacody

OK first of all, this thread has been growing sillier since page 1. Prime example of written words not coming across as the author may have meant them (and it would be obvious if your were speaking to them in person). No offense to anyone involved, but I think it may be time to let er rest.

I think we can all agree that compensated nuts rock and zero frets suck. LOL.

I think a dremel could be used. Don't use a bit, use those metal saw blades for dremel type tools that Grizzly sells. If you are going to do it, make it so you can set the radius. Now that would be friggen cool!

If I were building a non-fender type guitar, I would go Warmoth all the way. But for Fender type stuff? USACG is the best, IMHO. Warmoth ain't bad either.

Those sound like pretty good tips. Thanks guys!

Tommy at USA Custom Guitars will sell you a neck through. I believe the starting price is about $300. It's not listed on the site, you have to call him.

Gang,

I was installing a new nut last night and it was way too high, so I took to filing and sanding it down. The bottom came out much less than perfect. It had a pretty good slant to it. I'm disappointed in how in turned out. Any tips for keeping stuff like this flush and straight?

It will work. Tommy has his own forum and many members over there have done just what you are asking about. Also, keep an eye on the USACG site, because occasionally there are web specials (I got an alder strat body for $95 a year ago).

When you call in your neck order, tell Tommy its for a Warmoth body and see if there's anything he feels needs to be done to adapt. There probably isn't.

Xeromus, I agree with you on their necks, they rock. I've got two of their necks and two of their bodies. I also prefer USA CG bodies for Strats and tele's because I can call and ask Tommy for exactly what I want tonally, and he delivers. On my first strat body I ordered, we talked about the tone I wanted and he called me back 30 minutes later very excited and said he found the perfect piece of alder for me. He delivered on the tone I was looking for. He's a great guy and knows what he's doing (not that the Warmoth folks don't also).

I think many people will agree that old guitars with their natural wear patterns look really cool. Unfortunately, most of us cannot afford a 61 strat in any condition. I say if it makes someone happy, why not? Some folks act like someone buying a relic or making a relic is as bad as killing a baby. Live and let live for crying out loud! I don't come and tell you that your floyd roses make me want to puke. I don't complain about you wacko's who start adding extra strings to an otherwise good guitar. Lighten up man.

Green cat, I make mine out of pvc pipe. I still don't have circular breathing down. Any suggestions? (and sorry for the hijack!)

Didn't Fender make basses out of Ash?

At any rate, I would base the decision on the tap tone and weight of the wood (and maybe the type of finish you are going to apply).

Isn't there a kind of ash that grows native to Australia? Might check that out. Isn't that what the Aborigines make didjeridoo's (sp) out of?

If you are looking for a wrap-around type, my friend Steve Rowen at Pigtail Music makes an intonatable wrap around (quite a bit like the tone-pros one, which Steve designed for tone-pros, but with several improvements) that allows for little to no neck angle. It's pretty cool, but a little on the pricey side compared to Mighty Mite stuff (being made in the USA and all).

Actually, a modern squier would 1 of three things:

Plywood (only the current bullet series)

Alder (Affinity series sold in the US, Chinese made)

Agathis (Standard series, these are made in Indonesia)

Some have been made of ash in the past too (the protone series).

At any rate, I've never heard of a poplar squier.

I have however, heard that sometimes asian made guitars do not use wood that is dry enough. I wonder if that could have something to do with this?

An interesting choice eh? Be a spoiled brat whiner or be a person of patience and kindness.

Drak, this is great. It's nice to know that you feel this way, becuase I know a lot of the knuckleheads complaining probably look up to you.

I also wanted to say thanks to everyone here who has helped someone. It shows the true spirit of generosity and wisdom.

If you drill out your cavities before routing (like many tutorials recommend), then I wouldn't think it would be too big of an issue.

I wouldn't sweat it. I've seen production guitars from big companies with larger gaps.

This is a very loaded question. You'll find bolt-ons with great sustain with a huge gap on one side or the other and you'll find bolt-ons with a tight neck pocket with no sustain.

The generally held belief is that the tighter the neck pocket, the better. My USA Custom Guitars Strat body and neck fit together very tightly (this is unfinished mind you) and I could hold the whole thing by the neck with no screws in place.

As far as the gap is concerned, can you either take a picture or draw us a diagram of what we're looking at?

First, Alder does not soak up a lot of finish. Depending on the piece, grain filling may not even be needed.

Second, the alder bodies I've seen tend to have a reddish tint. I myself tried dying one yellow and it came out a nice amber/honey color. Not even close to yellow though!

Third, the finish you choose as your clear could also end up darkening the color you choose. I highly recommend that you get some scraps and test, test, test!

I believe that some classical violin makers used pearwood on occasion (stradivari certainly did on occasion), I'm not sure what parts pearwood were used for, but it was used.

I know nothing about using elm.

Yew was used for Bows (i.e. Bows and Arrows) in medieval times. Apparently, yew is very bendable and very strong.

go to guitarbuild.com, they have cad templates and even free cad software to view the cad files with.

OK, his username is durawoods

I don't know, I've read about a lot of Nitro finish jobs that took over a month to pass the fingernail test, depending on the conditions when the nitro was applied, the manufacture of the Nitro, and the experience level of the person doing it.

Not harden very well? LOL Are you talking about Nitro or KTM9? I thought Nitro took years to fully cure?

Is that his real username, because I did a search on it and came up with an ebay id with zero feedback and no auctions?

Some of you guys come off like real pricks, no offense.

If your stuff is organized, its easier to lay your hands on something right when you need it. How many times have you maroons had to hunt for a tool that you misplaced?

I for one look up to anyone who has the DISCIPLINE to get and stay organized. It is a real sign of professionalism. Knocking someone who is organized is a sign of IMMATURITY. I bet you make fun of people who are smarter than you are too (which is probably quite a few people).