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boundsteelblues

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Posts posted by boundsteelblues

  1. I was paging through the build/assembly pics on Joe Bochar's webstite to understand what was revolutionary about the neck pocket. I was puzzled by the truss rod access hole. I don't have that many builds under my belt or maybe this would be more self-evident to me. How do they cut this access channel? I just don't get it. Kind of looks like a drill bit got them down to the depth. How did they drill through to the truss channel? I am sure it is simple, but I'm not seeing it.

    http://www.jbguitars.com/mm.html

  2. Thanks for the nice words Wez! :D

    Actually John, let me explain in more detail...

    They're all getting pretty close to finishing stage.

    I let the earlier ones slow down, and get the newer ones caught up to them,

    so they all go into finishing at about the same time, and those will be the 'batch' for the year.

    I actually was getting ready to post some updates on 2 of the others,

    as I just bleached them this weekend in prep for the dying process coming up very soon.

    Thanks for the nice words! (and your dragon inlay rocks as well :D )

    And actually, I screwed up the book by about 1/4", but oh well...

    If you missed the book, you can't tell it is off becuase of the lines that meet at the bottom. Even the heavy red v at the top meets. I see the one below it that looks off.

  3. Hello friends

    This is the uglyest guitar i ever seen. Its builded wrong to the first steps.The European oak is not the same whit red or white american oak and is not good for building guitars. Second it is builded like to the foot. And its ugly.The tunomatic is in wrong pozition.And the hand work its krapy. The neck hell its wrong make it and the neck is on air.

    So the guitar is an mess. This is not an guitar this is an pcs of wood for make house work around .

    Its look like crapy.

    This is the most ignorant post I have ever read.

  4. I decided to get the board. I want to use it for a top as well. Here is some online info on the wood.

    Range: Mexico and Central America

    Other Names: Black Poison Wood

    Color ranges from amber to dark brown, often with a range of colors and contrasting streaks. This wood is quite hard, dense, and tight-grained. With care, a beautiful, lustrous finish can be obtained. Slightly oily, but not as much as teak. An excellent furniture-making wood that is suitable for a variety of other applications. Very rot resistant.

    The Wood: I have always liked this wood, even though it has a foreboding name. I find the problem to be in the liquid sap that oozes from the cambium layer of the fresh log. This tree and wood quality can really vary from area to area. I have seen some drier locals that produce very dark lumber with a tendency to cup and bow. The trees tend to hollow in the center as they get larger in diameter.

    Other areas produce a informally richly colored Chechen with demarque grain patterns. This is where we go to select our inventory. Occasionally we will get some "flame" grain pattern in. Now that is something to covet.

  5. I finished my first build. I choose a simple custom design rather than a traditional project. This was a learning curve and not a dream guitar. I decided to have fun with it. Possibly a more formal set of specifications would have helped. A short list of lessons learned would include “Mechanical design shouldn't be done as an afterthought.” and “Having the right tools is invaluable.” But the whole building experience was really enjoyable and I gained a lot of necessary knowledge and background for the next project.

    The design began with a conversation with my son about guitar shapes and his like of this guitar design with a mandolin type body.

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/b..._d89ce0cc2a.jpg

    Someday I hope to build that guitar, but to keep a little more flexibility I wanted an asymmetrical body shape. I also wanted to make a simple bolt on neck with a straight headstock. I noodled around with designs for awhile not getting anywhere. The F style mandolin shape just didn’t engage my enthusiasm. One day I said to my son, forgetting the mandolin idea, what kind of shape would you want? He said make it a spaceship space. I Goggled “spaceship shape” and this was the first image.

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/b...ceshipShape.jpg

    The Driver was born. So to the pantheon of funky guitar shapes I commit it. The wood is tiger (fitting, isn't it) maple, body and neck, with a rosewood fretboard.

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/b...blues/Front.jpg

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/b...s/Frontbody.jpg

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/b...tfulllength.jpg

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/b...kfulllength.jpg

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/b...es/Backbody.jpg

    http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/b...s/Headstock.jpg

    We all are at different skill and experience levels. This is where I am at, I guess. I was hesitant to post about my first build because of the degree of quality of the builds on the forum. You guys are good! Overall, I’m pretty damned pleased, though. It was a good start. I know my commitment, perseverance and enthusiasm for the next build is really high and that should say it all. Let me know if the links don't work. I am new at posting.

  6. Thanks for the comment. These dyes are like Transtints from what I have read.

    In one place, I read to do 3 coats of Tru-oil before sanding back lightly with 4/0 steel wool. They used 9 coats of Tru-oil and sanded back after every other coat from 3 to the end. My assumption was that waiting to sand back was to not lift color, but to build up a coat first. Any thoughts on this method from anyone?

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