boundsteelblues

I know someone will say search the forum, but I've searched and read so much online I'm getting lost. I just need some clear advice. I dyed my guitar body with an aniline dye made by BASF in their Basantol line. I used it reduce with a 50/50 alcohol/lacquer thinner mixture.

Can I finish it with tru-oil? I know the tru-oil will impart an amber tint, but I tested on a scrap piece and the color is still ok.

I don't want dye rubbing off later. Will the tru-oil be enough or do I need to seal? What do I seal with? What seal can I use tru-oil over?

My plan had been to use tru-oil and then creamed beeswax. I had read this formula somewhere online - dye/tru-oil/beeswax. However, it seems like I can read just as much saying this is a bad idea? I used Tru-oil on the neck natural and was really happy.

If not tru-oil, what would you suggest?

I appreciate the feedback.

My youngest is about to graduate from high school so when I say congrats I know what I am talking about. The best thing ever to happen to you.

Man. that looks uncomfortable to me.

Hopefully the 2 clamps will be good enough. I also got new tools!!

I would have used cauls to protect the wood and distribute pressure.

I do all my guitar necks with lightly rubbed-on coats of tung oil. In between coats, I use 0000 steel wool to give it a very smooth, natural, and soft finish. It also brings out a satin-like luster in the wood. IMO, this produces the best finish on maple necks, but it works on any type of neck/wood.

Here's a neck I just finished cleaning up for my current project. Nothin' but tung oil and lots of love with 0000. The picture doesn't do it justice at all, but I thought I'd share.

-Roger

How many coats of tung oil do you apply?

I second the hatred of the ryobi 9" bandsaw...by far the worst I have ever attempted to use...the body of the bandsaw flexes so it's impossible to get proper tension,and the motor is weak as hell...

The Delta 9" is a decent machine...but recently I really have been getting irritated at the lack of room...a 14" with a riser I think would be just the trick for most guitar work.

Mine is a Ryobi 0". I probably would not have picked it, but I got it for $25 from a neighbor's brother so I can't complain.

Bandsaw has made a big difference for me. You have so much more control. The body may be something you can overcome in other ways with a jigsaw, but you can't cut off extra neck material before you flush rout it to the template. With the bandsaw, I've been able to make my own control cavity covers and pickup rings.

I shape, crown, 320 grit over a rubber eraser and use 0000 to polish.

Just choose one with the on/off by the handle. You don't want to have to let go with one hand to stop the router. Lesson learned.

I had just gotten to the point of cutting my string slots and noticed it when I was putting the on the body. I had not applied any finish yet. I could even sand it lightly.

I had a thought a minute ago. I had made 2 radiused stand-like blocks for the neck to set on when I wasn't working on it. They are a 2 x 4 with a piece of carpet superglued in the curve. I noticed that the color is about where it sat in the front block. Nothing at the point of the second, but the neck was also going into the heel so less contact. I wonder if the carpet is pulling something out.

I am not sure it is clear in the picture, but that is some red to the discoloration.

This discoloration has appeared on the neck I made from tiger maple. Neck is still unfinished. What is causing it?

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/b...es/DSC01579.jpg

spooky

The Nighthawk looks similar, but it's COMPLETELY different. The Nighthawk has this meek and shy look on it's face, whilst yours is very aggresive.

Maybe because your bridge p'up is slanted the other way...

Yours is very aesthetically pleasing, especially from an 80's metal standpoint

I agree.

For me, the straight pickup adds a mid-point of balance before the shift in line direction.

a friend of mine built an all black limba guitar (apart from the fretboard for which I don't remember what he used). it sounded fantastic. the only problem was that because this wood is not very strong the headstock seemed a bit fragile, so he added a headplate on the back of it (again, I don't remember which wood it was).

personally I love the looks and tone this wood gives.

WARNING: thread Hijacking follows:

Is white and black limba the same species?

http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woo...act%20sheet.htm

Everything went well drilling the pin holes for my tuners except for one. It was offline. I must have measured wrong. I enlarged the hole to what brings the tuner back in line, but should I expect problems from the freeplay? Should I fill the hole and drill again? The fix wouldn't be visible once the tuner is in, but neither is the larger hole. I'd leave well enough alone, but I'd rather fix it than have problems from it later.

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb188/b...es/DSC04318.jpg

Great use for odd pieces. Beautiful work all around.

C

Tendon

Tenon, not tendon.

Must be why it was so hard to search on google.

Edited

I forgot the headstock shot.

Headstock

I came into these 3 unfinished Gibson necks. I'm not sure which model they are for. I'd appreciate any feedback on what needs to be done to them next. Notice the binding above the fret ends. I've not seen that in building information before. What about the tendon type? Thanks for the input.

Side View

Necks

Tendon

Actually they are pearl. I got to start proof-reading. I meant to write ivory-pearl. Gold pearl is probably a more usual description. How do you edit that title again?

How flush do I want them with the neck? Should I leave them slightly proud and sand back. That was my first thought.

It would be cool to do a Brian Moore deeper cut on it. It asks for depth.

minstrel banjo like to me