boundsteelblues

Does anyone have pics of what the 3D method yields?

that is amazing work

You are a project machine.

I got it to work. I'm not sure what was going on last night.

I can't get a photo to upload on my profile. Pic is sized right and correct format. It gets halfway loaded and just hangs up. Any help?

I used a router with a edge guide. I learned on my test pieces to buy a differnt router next time. I have to take my hand off the handle to reach the off switch. Not good when trying to hold a running router steady. Second lesson is be sure to wait until it stops before lifting the router out of the groove.

I just made my first neck. I was going to use a flush trim router bit with the neck as the guide, but lost my nerve. I used a block and sanded and all went well.

Only three words...paragraphs and good luck.

Let me ask the question another way, would you glue this shim on the bottom or, if everything seems tight, not do so?

impressed

your fine if it was a 16th I'd put a shim under it but a 32nd I wouldn't worry about

For reference, how would you shim it, by the way? I have some maple veener that is probably the right thickness.

Yes, I mean deeper. Thanks, that is good news. This first guitar is also my first experience with a router.

I routed my first truss rod channel. The truss rod is a Stew Mac Hot Rod with the 1/8 allen. I put the nut at the heel. I'm not sure how I managed to do this, but checking my depth I found that the last 3 inches is 1/32" lower than the rest, which is spot on 7/16". What impact is this going to have? Do I need to try to correct it?

Can you anyone tell me the widest measurement for a LP Double Cutaway body? I was looking at ordering a template set, but want to make sure the wood I was intending to use was wide enough.

Try this when sanding:

Take a soft pencil and scribble all over the surface you are sanding. Run your sanding block over the surface once or twice and note if the pencil marks disappear uniformly else the marks on the high spots will be removed first. Keep sanding till all marks are removed then repeat, you should then have a flat board.

Keith

That's a simple and great trick. Why hadn't I thought of that before? Thanks

Can you share your process for filling them in?

Should I be concerned about the wormhole comment in a description on e-bay for a black limba board that I would use for a neck? You can't tell anything from the picture.

"Nice piece of wood with great figure, color and grain. Kiln dried, surfaced, flat, and solid Has a waxy feel to it. Has a few wormholes. Finishes well. Good for furniture, boxes, calls, musical instruments, turnings, bowls, guitars. Quartersawn"

Thanks, he'll be excited about that. He purchased it for $250 in 1978.

Thanks for those links. Serial number was 157116 and has the F on the neckplate so it looks like it is from 1966. It is Fiesta Red.

Anybody know how I edit the typo I made in the topic name?

I have a friend that has an all original 1962 Fender Precision Bass and it wonderig what it is worth. I've been trying to search it online, but it is harder than I thought it would be. Anyone have ideas on its value? I'd say it is in excellent condition for a player's instrument and nothign ever changed.

Sligthly off topic, but I read a thread on a bass forum where the maker of wood covers said they sound warmer. Anyone have thought on that? I've been thinking about making some myself every time I eye my scraps.

I've decided to get the bit, but not through stew-mac. I have a neighbor that sells into the furniture making industry and can get it for me much cheaper. I appreciate the input. I kind of didn't expect the different opinions. Personally, I just don't want to go to all the work I have to get a truss rod rattling in there and it is so hard to fix.

Whats a timecaster?

Something to do with the Muppets

http://muppet.wikia.com/wiki/Timecaster

yep. might rattle though. its only 1/32" smaller.

A bit of packing will cure that.

The instructions say a spot or two along the rods of silicone sealer is ok. I guess you just have to be careful how far you take it.

Is their custom router bit a necessity or can you get away with 1/4" .25 versus .225