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Bryan316

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Posts posted by Bryan316

  1. Okay, really cool idea to flare out a King V. But the points are never gonna last. I'm prepping you for miniature tragedies when the corners of the points get chipped off, because it WILL happen.

    However, if you can spare some rework, try to round over the points a bit. Maybe a 1/4" radius to the point will make the inevitable paint chips more bearable.

  2. Oh maaaaaan... engraving the dragonfly was KEY! It looks so much better, just by adding that little detail!!!

    What could you do with the center of the star? What kind of creativity could you come up with inside it?

    And that's definitely a guitar screaming to be played on a stage! Beautiful! Show that puppy off everywhere you can, man!

    What kind of output jack did you use? It looks far better than a lot of axes I've seen. And recessing it looks sharp.

  3. This guitar looks so good.

    My personal request would be a slightly lighter shade of blue. I'd want it to look just like the blue on my brother's '70 Mustang, so it would reveal a bit more of the wood grain beneath it. With this deep blue, it's kinda hard to see the grain. I'd want it to pop a bit more.

    BUT... having said that, I also would really need to see your blue under some stage lighting and see how it reacts! That would really be the decision maker.

    Excellent guitar, my man. If it was at a store, it'd be bought. And I'm a bass player!

  4. Now.... can you match the exposed-veneer-line technique you have on the headstock, with the bottom horn? Realyl round over and sculpt back the edge to get the white line of the body wood to show when looking flat at the body? That would seriously tie the whole design together.

    MAN this is getting better and better.

  5. Dunlop makes an excellent guitar cleaning kit. My brother and I use this exclusively on all our axes now:

    http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Dun...-Kit?sku=425269

    Has the cleaner/prep for getting rid of the gunk buildup, the conditioner to keep the wood oiled and in good shape, the polish, the caranuba wax, and the string saver (which we don't think makes much of a difference.)

    Also, they have just the bottles of prep/cleaner and conditioner, which will probably be good enough for you:

    http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Dun...-Kit?sku=425271

    But it is not recommended for maple fretboards.

    Another thing... you may want to clean and polish those frets to get them shiny and smooth again. There's an excellent tutorial on that on the web here:

    http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/sevenstri...board-care.html

  6. One word: Utilitarian.

    This is gonna be a playing guitar. Not a work of art, not some fancy decoration to hang on the wall and leave alone. This is destined for the stage, with a very loud amplifier behind it, to be played to death!

    \m/ \m/

    Dare I ask where the final destination of this axe may lie? Your personal axe? For sale? Already consigned for an owner?

    GAWD that is one comfy looking design. If it doesn't play like buttah, somebody must have sabotaged it!

  7. Mmm, most definitely Rich. I hear what you're saying, especially when comparing the cost of wood to the rest of the build. I was mainly thumbing my nose at the "expensive/exotic wood is a tonal improvement" crowd :D

    I don't look at exotic woods for their tonal characteristics, more for their structural superiority. I'm sick of rosewood for fretboards because of how filthy they get from players' hands. I want nice exotic woods with tighter grain for fretboards. Yeah, wenge is considered an exotic wood, but it sucks when it gets filthy and the open grain packed with dirt and oil.

    I'd LOVE to build a legit bass out of pine just for that open porous deep tone. Then give it some grain hardener to make it a little more dent resistant. But I'd make the neck with a maple or walnut skunk stripe for structural integrity cuz I know pine wouldn't stay straight and untwisted after tension is applied.

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