Cracked

One question.

Is he bigger than you?

Thanks Man! I always thought there was some technical reason behind it like dead spots on the neck. I must've read that somewhere and have seen the same thing on PRS's. Good to know that one could countour the heel right up to where it meets the body without loosing anything.

How does that saying go? If you want something done right, do it yourself?!!

Great job, I'm really digging the sound hole inlay.

Just wondering why you didn't contour the heel all the way up to where it meets the body? I've seen alot of guitars like that and have always wondered what the technical reason is, especially if you have that deep tenon.

I myself saw heaven when I first layed eyes upon the Fernandes Vertigo. Except for the headstock...

Sorry, don't know the specifics but you could try scouring their site (or emailing) to see if they actually say what it's made of, but if they don't and this is a $150 guitar, I'd just assume the worst...

Try taking the pickups out and if they haven't used any shielding paint you could possibly see a cross section of what it's made of. Same thing with the control cavity. If it is painted, I don't think scraping away a bit of the paint in a cavity would hurt the value . Good luck!

Whoa, I did think twice about posting the Zachary pic but I thought he might have been onto something because if I remember correctly, what I read said the prs heel was supposed to prevent dead spots high up on the neck and was wondering why he had that scoopy piece when he could've just had major access (if that makes sense!).

Anyways, thanks Setch

As for Zachary guitars, my jury is still mostly out. I think his string tension idea is great and his fretwork looks excellent but there are a few things that even I, not experienced hardly at all, kind of question.

I was wondering why a PRS has that huge heel (http://www.edromanguitars.com/resources/images/heelhell.jpg)?

I read somewhere that it was to reduce the chance of any dead spots up the fretboard. Could this be true? If it is does anyone know the theory behind it?

So if true, a heel-less neck could possibly be more suseptable to dead spots? And if so is this possibly why Zachary guitars has this http://www.zacharyguitars.com/170606_30.JPG instead of just this http://www.iwantguitars.com/imagedb/jet_21...7-950x331-1.jpg?

Thanks!!

Thanks Marksound! I love that song.

Ya, you probably won't be finding any really good instructional vids but it was cool just finding these - for the vibe ya know?

Pretty cool video. Can someone please tell me the name of the song in the intro?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6kbJFP-GUI

I found some more luthier type vids on there:

Gourmet guitars pt 1+2:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDcr3lyV47I

Mostly Acoustic:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvZgZZ7q8QM

Gary Cooper:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8zxz56

Beautiful work!!!

Did you have any major problems with the fret dressing? Do you mind if I ask how long that part took?

I havent tried the arbor/caul method yet but I think I need to start. I've only fretted 2 necks, hammered in both times and neither one is done still...

Back to you now I love that burst and binding, you set out to do something very detailed after not building much in the past and did it!

I on the other hand shot for the moon and still have to leave this atmosphere!

Hi, just wondering if mother nature put some kind of separation layer between the sapwood and the 'normal' wood? If that makes sense that is!

Thanks.

In theory it would only be better than rounded wire for intonation if left as a sharp point. In practise, you'd level the frets, then probably tart up the tops with the same file that you'd crown normal wire with. Unless, of course you used a fine cut triangular file to shape the wire to a point.

That would result, I imagine, in pretty uncomfortable fret ends, and reduced string life.

I didn't think that far you're right, unluss I used a 3 corner file instead of a fretfile, which I don't think I'm ready for just yet!

Anyone use this yet? To me it would seem easier to level and have less of a flat surface, allowing better intonation no?

Thanks mikhailgtrski!

I feel really smart now haha... but then again ya can't learn without asking I guess.

Hi, I'm looking at some neck inserts that have an internal thread of 10/32. I can oly find wood screws that state their size in #'s. So would say, a #8 screw fit a 10/32" insert? I tried Googling size converters but couldn't find any.

Thanks!

Hi, did a search on brass screws but didn't find my question answered.

I'm just wondering if brass screws, because brass seems to always be mentioned, would be better for a bolt on rather than stainless steel screws.

I thought Brass wasn't as strong as stainless. Maybe it's just that Brass is mentioned for nuts, bridges etc. and inserts? Could someone straighten me out?

Hi, been looking online and can't find one. I'm meaning the molded looking kind, like this Hipshot.

http://www.stewmac.com/catalog/images_1lg/3550_1lg.jpg

I swear I saw one somewhere, looks like their Vs100 tremolo but, non trem obviously

I just wanted to bump this up a bit.

Personal preference. To me, both feel fine, great, when oiled and/or french polished (my two favourite neck finishes). I never grain-fill the mahogany, and I can't say they feel like they 'drag' much, or at all.

Thanks!

Hi, I've never played a neck with just an oil finish and am about to build one. I was just wondering though, what would feel faster/smoother? I'm thinking that the maple would but then again, would the tung oil finish make them both feel the same or is it not that big a deal?

Thanks!

Hi, been looking online and can't find one. I'm meaning the molded looking kind, like this Hipshot.

http://www.stewmac.com/catalog/images_1lg/3550_1lg.jpg

I swear I saw one somewhere, looks like their Vs100 tremolo but, non trem obviously

I'm slowly starting to become a member of this guy's cult.

http://www.zacharyguitars.com/090506pics.htm

Thanks everyone! It all made sense believe it or not.

Hi, I have a beautiful piece of mahogany 3/4" thick. I'd like to use it as a top and a piece of Western Maple (non figured) for the bottom. I've read about how different tops/bottoms will sound different, even if it's the same combo of wood. Is this just more voodoo talk or will a Mahogany topped guitar with Maple on the bottom sound different than a Maple top Mahogany bottom??

Thanks!

I just read the dangers of not disposing of properly a linseed oil rag, just wondering if Tung oil has the same danger?

http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/George/FTT_0299.htm

Hi, I have a line on a crapload of PAcific Yew. I couldn't find anything doing a search here but googled some acoustic guitars using this wood.

Anyone know anything else about it as an electric tonewood? Or even if it's strong enough for a neck?