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rick_here

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Posts posted by rick_here

  1. SkiBum-

    We know...."You had to be there!!"

    For what it's worth I saw "Satch" on the 1997 G-3-Tour in Memphis, TN featuring: Robert Fripp opening (solo/ with his "Frippertronics"), then Kenny Wayne Shephard, next came Steve Vai (with Mike Keneally on keys & guitar)...then Satch (w/ Stu Hamm on bass!)....

    Guess you had to be there....

    :D

    PS-

    Good For You!!!

  2. I've been doing some reading & research---What Y'all have said/ been saying---and like well, at a whole bunch of other places (including @ ReRanch, how Ppl have done Nitro finishes, (DaveQ's) Tru-Oil Method, how this other guy used some Tinted Tung Oil Stuff that can be mixed with Poly, a "Preval" Option )...and the such-likes & so-on's.

    So, (as I keep on saying "thanx")....Thanx!

    It's gonna be about a month before I actually get to the finishing part of this project (basically my 1st, unless I could count the Carvin Bolt-On I "made")....

    I've found pics, not here @ PG, of what Matt (GF's) been saying about how Ash doesn't absorb stain (or much of anything else very well). Point well taken; I'm Advized! So I don't think I'll wind up doing anything Really-Stupid, thanx to all of your help (I won't just yet anywayz)......LoL.

    I'll get my camera ta goin, post some pics and run what I've come up with by y'all again...here in a couple, three weeks or so.

    PS, DaveQ-

    I've got two other bodies for future-future projects (after this one). I'd like to hear how that Tru-Oil went either here or if you have a link to another thread (?). Feel free to message me here (or on Yahoo, though I'm ususally "invisible" when online) or just whenever you find the time, if ya do.

    Thanxalot everybody!

    rick

    ><>

  3. Bus Bob-

    As we reminisce...(not to hi-jack the thread or anything)....

    I mean, all things Prog-Rock are (still) "open to this thread!"

    But.

    Following-up on our sub-topic, Bus Bob; I can't remember who the backup bands were for this one (back then they usually had two of em).

    Ooops, I saw DP twice within a year's time. Once (the one mentioned above) it was Fleetwood Mac opening.

    The other time I was in the 3rd row (and the seats went right up to the stage)...and was talking with Jon Lord (keyboardist) between songs. Ian Gillan was yapping with us too (off-mike, joking around & stuff). In any event, all's I can recall about Ritchie Blackmore in this show was that he, ummm, "Roared!" and was moving around a whole lot. One disadvantage was that they had the sound-system set up in "stereo" and this made it hard to hear Richie....even though I was close to him (but on the opposite side of where he was on the stage). He was playing that Olde White Strat of his....(not sure how the pups were set-up/ if it was his "signature, 2 pups" version?).

    ZZ Top opening for Ted Nugent? Had to be their "early years." I saw the Eagles open up for Ten Years After....(same thing---before they (Eagles) made it Real Big).

    So, sorry (any one else) if Mr. Bus Bob & I are talking (too much) about our "Glory Daze"....

    Now back to: Yer Regularly Scheduled Thread.

    :D

  4. Actually, if you look at where someone has sanded near the pickguard & control plate (near the bridge too)....it looks like the brown has been sanded off. But most of the black (most likely a black grain-filler)---it is still "there." This was why---originally---I thought the correct order would be: (1) Fill the grain with StewMac Black Epoxy; (2) Sand-That-Down & Stain it Gray; (3) Apply the clear-coats (without any tinting in them).

    Matt-

    I can't see why if your wanting a very light gray tint to your wood you couldn't mix it with lacquer or whatever you was gonna use and spray it on. With ash spraying it on still looks the best in my opinion. Have you tried the Miniwax stuff before?

    Due to the weather and the fact that I don't have any spraying equipment (and just got fired, so prolly won't be buying any anytime soon---but nevermind that)....I'm gonna hafta do this inside (in my bathroom!!!) using the Wipe-On-Method.

    My cousin works as a "Home Improvement Person" for a company that has lots of real estate here, locally. (Aka, she's an interior decorator). Among her other assignments, she re-finishes old kitchen cabinets and other wood-stuff all the time. Over the years she's been doing this she's tried several different finishes. For the last 3 years or so; the only finish she ever uses has been Minwax Wipe-On Poly...and both she, her boss and the folks who later live in the apartments or homes; they really-like how the Wipe-On Poly looks.

    I'll have to ask her if she has ever "tinted" it. But as far as I know she always applies it over stains.

    I've never used Minwax Wipe-On Poly myself. But here at PG (and elsewhere) I've read about how folks have (on their guitars) and are totally happy with it. "Rock Hard!" and really great looking! (as the reviews have gone).

    Hope this helps, as y'all are helping me!!!

    thanx, some more

    rick

    ><>

  5. DaveQ-

    Thanks for the yer-interested! Here's a pic of a 1971 Telecaster (that had been modded over the years) I saw on an eBay-auction:

    71tele01t.jpg

    As you can see the grain is filled & "highlighted." And the color for this guitar is some shade of "brown" (or a dark tan). But not only are the deep grains filled, the lighter or smaller ones also have their grains "highlighted." You can see basically "all of the wood's grains"....what the body's wood (itself) actually looks like.

    In a nutshell, this is just about exactly how I want mine to look...but in Gray (and hopefully minus all those dreaded mistakes)!

    :D

  6. StratDudeDan-

    I hear ya. I mean, "know what you mean." How good you are, how good you'd like to get and who thinks you are already "great."

    I guess it depends on who's listening and what the context is.

    One "audience" we guitar-pickers always have are ourselves as far as that may go (???).

    :D

  7. VanKirk & everyone-

    I'll have to add "I second that" (to what CurtisP just said to you, as in Sorry To Hear That)...

    Yet I think I may know what VanKirk meant by how he was using the term "vibrato." Basically, if yer nerves are "on edge." Who needs a Whammy-Bar? when you (which includes: your hands) are Super-Charged With Adrenalin???

    I experienced something similar to this (on a lesser scale of intensity, I'm sure) when I first "soloed" in a band. My hands were all jumpy-like. And I could get plenty of "extra movement" beyond any doubt! Each & every screw-up I made was immediately covered by...seemingly, flashes-of-lightning (Zap!) going thru my body.

    I have to salute VanKirk, give tribute. If I had been in that situation....(knowing me)....it would have been That Olde Peter Townsend thing (you know, destroying the guitar). A thing I only did once long ago on a cheap (pawn shop) model. Since then I've managed to gain more control over my emotions and a drinking problem that was really-bad back then.

    anywayz

  8. 'Been busy with some other stuff....

    OK.

    Between what Matt ("Guitarfrenzy") and Fender4me (nice meeting you, btw) have added...I think I've come up with a game plan. It's a "modified version" of what I've learned on this thread and what I already had in mind.

    Since I'm going to do everything by the wipe-on method, spraying anything won't be done. That rules out the "Voodoo look" which wasn't what I was thinking anyway. (Yet it is another possible future option on other guitars = Thanx!). And just like Fender4me; I want all of the grain to show thru. Which rules out tinting any spray-on finishes with the chosen color I want (as I won't be spraying to begin with). Though Matt's Strat looks Great! I don't want any of the grain to be "blurred" (for lack of vocab.) "by the tint" of a transparent-tinted-finish on this project. But, once again, it's a Cool-Idea...for something-future.

    Here's my current plan (for the "gray" body, that would be):

    (1) I'll stain the bare wood with Minwax Pastels Stain probably with the "Slate Gray" color. I'll apply it liberally and/or use extra coats to allow for deep absorption into the wood.

    (2) Following that with one (or two) of Matt's "StewMac Black Epoxy Grain-Filling Method," as needed.

    (3) Final coatings (the finishing of the finishing) with (clear) Minwax Wipe-On Poly as many as it takes/ I like.

    I'm figuring as long the stain sufficiently & evenly penetrates into the wood the "gray" will be preserved after sanding-down the Epoxy Grain-Filler. Also, I wouldn't mind some of the non-deeper-grains (the whiter, non-grainy, parts of the Ash) to also have some of their finer grains "highlighted" in black by the Black-Epoxy. After final-coatings (and the last coat) of the Wipe-On Poly what I should have would be: A Gray colored Ash body with all grains (both deep and more surface-ish) standing-out in black. It'll be gray and every single grain will be clearly highlighted.

    Make sense to you?

    (It does to me)....

    :D

  9. frank falbo-

    This is the same Mighty Mite Tele-style neck that you advized me about a week or so ago (re: the neck heel width is slightly too big for the Musikraft body I have). That dark spot by the nut is a small knot (which I knew about) and bought the neck anyway. It's the only slight-defect in the neck's wood itself.

    Given all the feedback you & DannoG have given me; I've decided to leave the neck as is. At least for now. Though I still don't really like the slight orangish color of the grain-swirls; it probably wouldn't be worth all the work I'd have to do to stain (refinish) them another color. Though I'm still undecided how I want to finish the body...and may be able to "match" the neck's existing colors some way.

    I just got (from PG's "own" Universal_Jems) a: "Luthier's Best Friend" (head worn luthier's goggles/ magnifying glasses. And used them too take a closer look at the finish on this neck. Peeking at the (above) machinehead holes, I can now see that the finish is "thicker" than I had thought. I can see some penetration of the wood and/or the finish's thickness. It looks adequate enuf as I'm comparing it to the only other neck finishing I've done---on a Carvin Bolt-On Kit neck I did about 4 years ago.

    Iow, his neck looks "sealed" well-enuf and the finish appears thick-enuf to be just fine as it is. Unless I decide I can't do the current color of these "neck-swirls"....Will inform when I get this Project actually-to-going (as I'm still getting other parts, etc.).

    Thanx again!

  10. DannoG-

    I hope I'm not breaking any of the PG "Rules" in posting this pic (as it shows who I bought it from on eBay). It's all I have to offer, right now.

    7e_1_b.JPG

    Here you can see how the "quasi-bird's-eye" has an orangish color. The neck was advertised as: "L'IL Flaming Maple Tele Neck"....

    And I can't remember where I read (or heard) that Maple doesn't accept stain very well. I just heard it someplace.

    Btw, thanx!

  11. Bus Bob-

    So we're the same chronological age then. Hmmmm....

    That being so, I think I'm following what-all yer sayin.

    I mean, Black Sabbath were "originally" in a technical sense of meaning "progressive rock" as they were doing something basically, new. But today they would be sort of the "fathers of metal"...a style/genre that has become "set" if you will.

    Actually, I like all kinds of music. And sometime around the "Metallica" years...I kinda quit foilowing the New Stuff though I'd listen to metal radio-stations to keep up with what new bands, etc. I also subsribed to Guitar Player (mag) for current updates.

    A lot could be said about Prog-Rock...a lot more.

    But, check this out!

    I saw Deep Purple in concert just after they went (what we called) "commercial." In other words, Smoke On The Water (Machinehead album). We had "known" Deep Purple's music for a few years before then....listening to them and other "progressive" bands on a couple FM college radio stations. "Deep Purple In Rock" was awesome!

    In any event, their backup band was: Fleetwod Mac! (pre-Stevie Nicks/ post Peter Green). Guitarists: Bob Welch! and Bob Weston---who was really good! (Danny Kirwin had just left the band, btw). It was their: "Penguin/Mystery to Me" tour, both released in '73. With Savoy Brown's old vocalist....(Dave Brown, I do believe he was).

    Nostalgia.....

    :D

    PS-

    I sort of just "got turned on to" Dream Theater. A younger guy from work (about 35) found out I liked King Crimson & said, "Check out DT." So, after somewhat coincidentally hearing them on Delicious Agony...a couple days later...I went out & bought a couple of their cd's. Great stuff! (Especially what's not on the (regular ol) radio).....go figure.

  12. bluespresence-

    The link looks great but I can't get it to play sad.gif Keeps telling me to refresh, page not available - I get the page but no sound. I'll keep trying!!!

    Are you at 56K? or "on dial-up?" (I am).

    'A couple of things here.

    First, to "initiate" Delicious Agony (get it going) you have to click on one of the "listen" links in the upper left hand column. I use the "listen at 24K" one even though my modem speed is (supposedly) 56K. The best I ever get is only about 50K so I use the 24K. Next, you have to have some kind of (online) Radio/mp3, etc., Player. Delicious Agony recommends WinAmp but my computer doesn't have enuf "power" to use it! I have RealPlayer (version 10)...which works just fine. Btw, WindowsMedia is not recommended by "DA."

    So if I were you I'd download RealPlayer10 & then retry the "listen at 24K." Should work out OK. But if your computer has enuf "power" (it meets all of the WinAmp system requirements, I'd definately go with it)!

    One more thing. The "DA" page continually "reloads" at once per minute, I think. You can adjust the loading-speeds to optimize yer listening & the "menu page"...Delicious Agony.

    Lemme know if yer having any problems.

  13. Hello again, jch4v!

    I can see you have been busy.

    The only thing is though, When I was gluing the maple together, I must have gotten some dirt in the join. So, the join mark is really dark. MY question is, do you guys know of any way of lightening that dark line... Bleach perhaps? Then I can just draw a new centerline.
    First off, no, I don't know how to lighten that line. I have something similar on a LP-style body that I got off eBay from a guy who got it off eBay. (Iow, this (now my) 2-piece body doesn't exactly "match" having a similar "line" that your Maple Veneer has). But this won't be a problem for me as I'm gonna paint it a solid color.

    From your pics it's hard to see just what the Veneer looks like. Are you sure that's (some kind of) "dirt" in the line? If that is what it is I would think it could be sanded off. And I'm assuming that both bookmatches are "level" (flush & flat) to one another; that the "line" isn't due to them not matching (or lining up with each other).

    I've never used bleach in guitar-making, as I'm basically new to "building"...Iow, bleaching guitar woods is new to me.

    Hope this helps get the conversation going & what-not.

    rick

    ><>

  14. Yo dudes....and this is gonna have to be brief (for now).

    I got fired today but that's beside the point....

    As to growing up I meant it in the sense of "when I was still getting taller all the time in an earier chronological setting."

    Dream Theater???

    (oh yeah...them)!!!

    Latah,

    rick

    ><>

  15. Wasn't sure where to post this so I picked Player's Corner. I mean, if you don't already like guitar music b/c you listened to it already...you'd prolly have never thought about playing it, right? You know---Air Guitar.

    I consider myself "real lucky" to have grown-up (meaning when I was in high school & stuff) alongside the Advent of Progressive Rock Music. I'm 48 & we're talking the mid-late 60's & early 70's....

    I can remember when we were listening to "underground radio" hearing Pink Floyd & Deep Purple before anyone else had even (ever) heard of them. And bands like: Hawkwind, McKendree Spring, Enerson/Lake & Palmer. GrinderSwitch, Gentle Giant, King Crimson (who are still around, btw) and others who have left their legacies. Oh yeah, did I mention: Yes? (no).

    During this roughly 10 year window of the mid-60's to mid-70's some of the best "rock"music (of the best rock music) Came Out. It was progressive music of the rock-variety. Add to the mix the Rock/Jazz-Fusion "movement," shall I say? where new groups emerged mixing rock 'n roll and Miles Davis!! Groups like: Weather Report, Oregon, Chick Corea's Return To Forever & John McGlaughlin's Mahavishnu Orchestra. (see Carlos Santana's recording: "Caravanseri")....

    Yes & ELP were doing more of a Eurpopean/"Classical" Rock as others were blending in that and jazz motifs. Not to mention African time signatures...and new musical instruments being added in the soup.

    Anyways, here's A Link to a decent Online-Prog-Rock Radio Station.

    DA-Logo.gif

    Enjoy,

    rick

    ><>

  16. I got one off eBay at a seller's "buy it now" price. If I had it to do over (which I don't) I may not have gotten it. But I got it. And am gonna go ahead and use it for my first Tele-Project.

    If any of you are familiar with Mighty Mite Necks especially with regard to their finishes, I have a couple questions.

    (1) This neck was listed as a "satin" finish and that's what it looks like. But it seems really on the "thin" side of things. Like it's more of a basic sealer....almost bare wood. Would I do well to sand it down & apply more finish?

    (2) And if I were to do so, what should I use? (I forgot to mention that it's a one-piece---with no fretboard---Maple). Actually it's a very good looking chunk of wood! with a semi-bird's-eye swirl (as my digital camera needs to get downloaded & running, sorry)!

    *Bonus Questions*

    (3) I'm Newbie at all this, btw. Theoretically speaking, from all I've been reading, Maple (especially of the Northern Hard variety, which this neck is) doesn't accept any kinds of stains. Q: Is there anything I could use to "enhance" those Xtra-cool quasi-bird's-eyes in the wood's grain? I ask this as these "swirls/bird's-eyes" are almost an Orange in color that I'm not so fond of and won't match my other guitar color schemes.

    (4) I'd actually like to put some real-hard (well-sealing) finish on it. Glossy, shiny & thick. So given all of the above stuff, what do you think???

    Signed with a thanx-in-advance,

    rick

    ><>

  17. Dear Matt "Mr. GuitarFrenzy" Vinson-

    :D

    First off, I used the black slow setting epoxy that StewMac sells simply because I wanted to really see the grain show through the burst.
    On page 13 of your Making of a Strat (picto-tutorial) I got a tad thrown off by the pics. The can of StewMac Color Tone sitting behind the epoxy bottles; I didn't know if you had used it to pre-mix the 2-part epoxies black (or what?). So, I'll go with the Slow-Set, Black then.
    First off dying Ash isn't a good thing, the color always seems to be blotchy and uneven no matter how I applied and sanded. All you have to do is get a test piece of ash and try it yourself, then you'll know what I'm talking about.
    I'll do however much testing I'll need to do in the Pup-Routes b/c I don't have any other Ash available. Also, dying is out of the question, I've learned.
    So basically, the best way to apply any color is by using a mixed paint that will dry transparent. I'm not sure what kind of paint your wanting to use, but you will need a spray gun to pull this off.
    Once again, I apologize for how I (mis-)worded this thread's title. Thoh I really like how your Strat looked! it's just not what I'm going for, this round anyway (Round One).

    IOW, I want the standing-out (black) grain to show out a lot, just like you did. A transparent or "transcluscent/tinted" finish---I don't wanna have that. I want just a plain ol' clear one. So you can see the exact definitions of the grain! Yet I may want to have the body "colored" in a shade of Gray. (Depends on what it looks like after sanding). Question: could I stain the wood after "sanding down" the Black-Epoxy/Grain-Filler?

    So here is what steps we took:

    1. Applied slow setting epoxy in sections by using a plastic squeegee to press the epoxy deep into the grains moving with the grain holding it at a 45°.

    2. Let it dry overnight.

    3. Sand level, until the pores are the same height as the rest of the wood.

    4. Repeat steps 1-3

    5. Sand guitar completely smooth with 220 grit.

    Gotcha, & thanx some more (some more).
    6. Spray the transparent blue.

    7. Spray the black burst.

    8. Spray clear coats

    9. Sand, buff and done

    Hope this helps....

    Every little bit helps!

    In summary; I don't want to use "transparent paint" but will use Wipe-On Poly (clear). It won't get bursted. So how to get it "colored Gray" is my only remaining question (if I decide to do that after seeing how it looks "in the natural").

    Thanks, thanks, thanks!

    rick

    ><>

  18. It's a kind of "niche" in the history of guitar playing; that crossover between Jazz & Rock 'n Roll....Huh? (you must be saying).

    It's simple enuf that a Beginner just beyond the beginning stages can understand it, at least in theory. I haven't mastered any of what follows but am (I think) an "intermediate" level guitarist....someone who can't speed-read regular notation but who can "jam" with just about anyone. I can (very slowly) transcribe from piano to guitar but "sight-reading" is well beyond my ability.

    The 70's Jazz-Rock-Fusion band Steely Dan kind of utililized (very well) certain basic guitar "chord-shapes" to create their unique sounds. Jimi Hendrix, I would say, also employed similar guitar-playing methodologies. He did that "best/better" than anyone else thus far, (imo-again) within the Purely-Rock-Music-Realm (but, let's see how he did that/ theory-wise)???

    ...I still wonder if he knew if he really-contemplated his music, "theory-wise"....

    Here's a Link:

    Mickey Baker's Jazz Guitar, Book One

    This Link was an interjection, btw. I have both books (One & Two) but haven't been playing much for a while....just now getting back into it. What we have here is Mickey Baker's books which are essentially, ummmm, just Great! for anyone who plays rock or jazz guitar today regardless of what style or genre' yer into (yer age & so-forth).

    Book One begins with "tab" (and also standard) notation on How To: Do (Jazz) Chord-Substitutes. Playing standard guitar chords "jazzy-diff-Cooley" so to speak. Variety would be the Key-Word here. But I never really got thru (even) Book One all the way so I'll leave it at that (6 bucks, each book/ Be Advised!!!)....

    From my understanding the members of Steely Dan (band-members, writers, guitarists/musicians) became & were familiar with what Mickey Baker was into and embellished on that from others who were hip to what was Happenin...that "Scene," as we used to say Back In The Day. I've read article/interviews with Walter Becker, Steely Dan's guitarist, recalling that he followed-up with this musical-situation, finding a teacher who could show him this stuff.

    Getting back to simplicity (just over the horizon of Rank-Beginner); what Steely Dan illlustrated oh-so-very-well was the "alternate-root" for any given chord. Playing a C-chord with a D-root (or we could say, the "bass" (lowest) note).

    Mickey Baker's books covers this, plus other stuff.

    Whether you like Steely Dan (have even heard of them, or not); I'd recommend getting some of their "guitar books" as they have all chords in Diagram (or Tab) form, noting each & every step. Ya might need some of their "best of/ greatest hits" cd's too....if yer an essential: By-Ear-Player (as I am).

    The possibilities are virtually endless....and applicable to any style of music!!!

  19. Gorecki added-

    If a traditional chord fingering doesn't work for you, find an alternate fingering or an inversion of the same chord you can reach more readily.

    Call em voicings, chord-shapes-formulas, inversions, just what: "That sounds good!", or anything else....

    Most of all, have fun.

    If "Guitar" gets too boring, I have some holes down in the basement that I haven't finished digging up yet. Talk about: depression!!!

    ....why God invented: The Guitar, I'm thinkin....

    :D

  20. skibum-

    Plz excuse me....(I was editing out typos/details).

    So, you want to:

    fill the grain with black epoxy

    dye the wood gray

    use clear (completely, untinted clear) wipe on poly

    More or less....I mean, Definately-(Maybe)......

    See, I have an Ash Body (swamp? or yankee-fied?) that has those Swirly-Grains that hafta get filled up. I want them to be Black when & after I do that. As in, the final product/picture....

    "Grain-Fillers" (of the guitar grain fillers variety) are stuff that I've never managed to hafta encounter thus far in my 48 & 3/4th's Life. But now, I Yam.

    Mr. Guitar Frenzy made his pictorial that had an Ash Body. I read & looked at it, taking notes. At one point he said he was gonna use "StewMac's Grain Filler later" after the Black Epoxy as-his-chosen-grain-filler-scenario....At which point I got "lost" again b/c he never mentioned using that afterwards....

    Surely enuf, I'd be glad to "dye" the remaining not-swirly-lines (those black, lower-level, epoxy-grain-filled) wood-things in the tint/shade/color of: US Navy Ship's's "Haze Gray."

    But whether it's dye---actual dye---or just a regular ol' wood stain, I'm thinking; all's I wanna do is Do-This! So, no I wouldn't be all that interested in (literally) "dying" the wood as I can get a proximally-colored wood stain to fit the billet. Stated another way, I don't wanna hafta buy several "wood tints" from StewMac to achieve the correct wood-dye-shade-Gray-color. On accounta, I can do it easier at Walmart's (or Lowe's), etc. They have Wood Stains that are gonna be close-enuf!!!

    The sanding-down after the Black-Epoxy-(Project Guitar "Tip"/StewMac)-Grain-Filler will reveal: Fresh Wood, unstained/tinted/dyed/colored or what have you. I want that to be: gray.

    My plan, thus far.......

  21. Y'all have been "real good sports" (tolerating me, a newbie at all this stuff)....ty!!! 'Not quite sure how to put this but; I've learned a whole lot more on this thread than you "veterans" probably realize.

    First, you have the ol' "linguistics" (what words are, what they mean. etc.). Not to get all philosophical about it or anything....

    Next, I've found out that the thread's name didn't really reflect what I was thinking at the time---what I "really meant to say," IOW, it would have been better-called: "Ash Body, Gray, with Clear Topcoats" because that's what I had (had) in mind when I posted it.

    This reminds me of when I bought my 1st computer & got online (just 5 years ago). As most of you (or probably just about everyone) knows; ya gotta "be online" for a while to figure Exactly What all that Internet-Lingo means...especially if yer Self-Taught, as in my case-scenario.

    You guys are so more advanced than I am that we may continue to have communication mix-ups. But it wouldn't really be anyone's fault, per se. (When in doubt, blame the newbie/ I know!!!)....

    Ok then.

    I re-read & viewed GuitarFrenzy's Pictorial; actually taking notes. A "tinted clear finish" isn't what I had/have in mind...(and Sorry About That). A Gray tinted as in "gray color (the color gray/shade/tint) " body is what I'm going for. His Strat looks great! But I'm all-for having the grain standng-out as it actually "is." By "grain" I mean the "swirls" or what-have-you---the "those lines" things that stand out from the lighter parts of the wood. IOW, the grain that needs to Get-Filled Since I'm also going for a flat(ened) final finish.....Making any sense thus far, this round? I hope so!

    From my notes both right-here & @ GF's Ash Strat I'm learning things related and continue to be confused at the same time. (Except I'm not blaming anybody for the confusion, outside of my own inexperience)!

    Mr. G.F. said, among other things; Ash can be finished in many different ways. I'll take that for granted and am still looking-for just what I wanna do! As has been *noted* (right here) I can do the StewMac Black-Epoxy Method if I want to just clear-coat it, having that "baseball bat ash" Stand-Out-Like. (I rilly do think this is a Hard Ash Body)!

    Now.

    Getting this thread up to snuff; that's my job!

    Though I'm still perplexed about several "steps" (in whatever Method/Order they (each) can be done in); here's just what I have going.

    I'm gonna both "fill the grain" (those swiring deals) with Black Epoxy, StewMac's or hardware store. Then I'm gonna level-sand it down and look at it. Another application of the Black-Epoxy may be in order then, I dunno yet. the whole point is that I'm going to "fill the grain" with this Black-Epoxy.

    After maximum-sanding---Mr. G.F. says it takes what seems like "years"---I'll have that "bare wood" (which is "above" the wood that just got epoxy-GRAIN-filled, black). At that point I can go ahead and make the thing a "baseball bat" with Wipe-On coats of Poly. Or, I can "stain" (tint/shade) it with regular ol' wood-stain as what I've sanded down is yer Basic Bare Wood. Then, finish the job with however many coats of Poly are needed/ I like.

    Plz forgive me, once more, on whatever "steps" I've missed or if I'm doing this Bass Ackwards. As a final note for now---that woudl be a "no"---I don't want to use a "tinted clear-coat." (My Bad).

    A "tinted" (Gray "shade") is what I meant. Put another way, the swirly-grain I want Black. The other. lighter, not-swirly-wood, Gray (Haze Gray for any of you Squidly types)....I'm ex-US Navy: it's the color of Ships.

    In any event, I'm curious as to how all this might work out. If I have Y'all More Confused than I am (???).

    ...Now. Where's that black shoe dye????....

    :D

  22. skibum-

    Thanx for the StewMac (Color Tone) link. I've been reading their catalog (one I have here at home) and going over the options.

    Wouldn't this be the same thing?

    Slow-Setting Epoxy, Black, #5179-B

    3 bucks cheaper than the Color Tone. And no need to buy epoxy (locally). I probably won't need any more Epoxy-(type) Grain Filler for some time.

    Whatta ya think?

    The shoe polish was meant as "satirical"...but it's a fact that I'll use anything that works! I'm so (*cheap/ *cheap*/ cheap*)!!!

    :D

    I wonder if a Local Epoxy and Artist's Acrylic (black) would do the job? I've seen someone @ PG using Artist's Acrylics for something....

    So much info & variables.

    I'm thinkin #5179-B and lettin it be at that (as I need to get some stuff from StewMac's anyway).

    be well

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