espnut2

I have done it and it can give a nice vintage yellow depending on how many passes you make.

Thanks for the info. It looks like this :

Hi, I have that logo in black, gold and silver. It is waterslide. $15. drop me a line at gr8eve@yahoo.com if you still need it

I have used Deft religously for my clearcoating but find that is is difficult to build over graphics and sand smooth. I have also used Krylon Triple Thick which works great over graphics and smooths out great as well, but it never cures. Does anybody know of any other clears that work well and build well over graphics? Any opinion/experiences are VERY welcome. Please keep in mind I am talking about rattle cans. Thanks

I know this is a late reply/response to this topic first off, so sorry about this...I used this on several guitars and have been waiting well over a month for it to harden. It has yet to do so. Everytime I pick it up, it leaves a slight finger print ot hair print from my leg. It covers and smooth sands over graphics great and offers a great shine if you can get the polish off as mentioned above (Gibson spray polish works well). WAY to hard to work with and I believe I will stick with Deft. The only thing about deft is, when using pearl paint from cans like the Testors spray Pearls (I know...model car paint???), It wrinkles the color coat. Not sure why. Anyone?

Anyone have any tips on refinishing in vintage white/cream? I was planning finishing in plain white and then staining the finish in a tint; perhaps amber shellac but I'm not sure how "yellow" this would turn out. Anyone ever done this before. If so, how did it turn out?

Hi, I paint them white and clear them with Reranch amber clear. Turns out just like Yngwies strat.

Has any one used Alsa's Speed Clear? (Catalyzed PolyUrethane) I will be doing a strat with thier Spectra FX and they reccomend to use thier Speed Clear. I will be using the Killer Kanz. Also, they recommended that I would only need one can of clear, is that going to be enough? I thought I heard that the Poly Urethane goes on heavier than laquers, but don't remember where I saw that.

Thanks,

Scott

I do not use Alsa clear or the Killer Cans but I have several friends that use the spped clear over the mirra chrome. Most only use it to seal the chrome and then go to a regular high build clear. Speed clear does not have the gloss reetention thata slower curing clear has though and will die back. If you are sanding and buffing this should not be a big issue. Most spray cans have about 3 oz of paint in them, not sure on the killer cans. I would think that ou could get a couple coats out of one can.

I am not a big fan of their clear. It is extremely humidity dependant or finicky if you catch my drift and doesn't build well at all.

I am planning to stain a guitar body and I want to create a natural binding look. The body does not have binding originally. Is this a dye and scrape technique? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

What software is needed to open that type of file?

Hi all, is there a tung oil tutorial around? If not, does anybody know the steps to creating a shiny, really protective finish with TO. Are there any steps to finishing it afterwards ie. buffing, steel wool etc. ANY help is greatly appreciated.

Scott

I have tried several set-ups for cutting binding ledges, and am having trouble.can you tell me if a good rabbiting set , with several bearings, could be used to do this.  What is used when there were no routers?  Any help would be appreciated.

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Hi, have you tried www.stewmac.com . They have a dremel setup that's very nice.

Hi all, I have a korina guitar that I am planning to dye. What I want to do is have a custom logo created of vinyl and lay it on the headstock. Then I want to dye over it so when I peel the logo off it leaves the natural color logo underneath. Can this be done or will the dye bleed under the logo as I suspect. Does anyone have any other Idea on how to do this. I hope I explained that well enough. Thanks for any help in the matter.

Hello, I have a Charvel VH II San Dimas replica for sale. Here are the specs:

*Charvel Model 2 Body

*Beautiful birdseye maple neck with skunk stripe and Charvel Pre-Pro logo

*High output Zebra "brown sound" pickup that screams

*original Kahler 2500 tremolo, complete

*Original Charvel Tuners

*New Strings

*Single Hum, Single volume configuration-no frills!

This guitar is incredible and is in like new condition. All graphics are under 4 coats of clear. No tape here! It plays and sounds amazing. This is a great chance to get a beautiful replica that will not break the bank. If you are interested, you can email me at gr8eve@yahoo.com. I am asking $500.00 + $35 shipping OBO. I do not have a case for it but I will pack it extremely well. See pics below. If the links to the pics do not work, please email me for them and I will be happy to send them to you.

Thanks,

Scott

http://tinypic.com/cnark

http://tinypic.com/cnati

http://tinypic.com/cnart

http://tinypic.com/cnash

http://tinypic.com/cnax3

http://tinypic.com/cnatf

I have all headstock logo types if you need them. You can email me at gr8eve@yahoo.com

Hey Bear, what kind of tape did you use to mask those stripes? They left very defined edges, no checking from what I can tell. Thanks

Thanks, I'll try that.

Deft clear... aerosol can.

I am spraying it all at once. I just cannot get the nice glossy finish that I get on the front without getting overspray on the rest of the body.

Hello, I am having a bit of trouble getting the same quality of clear on the rest of my guitar body that I got on the front. It laid on nice and smooth on the front, and I understand why (sprayed flat). But, when I clear the front, it oversprays everywhere else and leaves a powdery finish. I hope this isn't too confusing, any ideas?

Thanks!

Thanks, I was wondering about that.

Anybody used a clearcoat over the neck after doing this?

No, LGM had it right. It's the raised edges that give me the trouble. I have had it actually shrink and reveal the color under it as well. I will try it on a piece of scrap first. Thanks!

Hi all, I want to do an urban camo paint job. I know how to do it, but I need to know how to fade the edges of each color into the next without blemishing the paint. Any ideas? Thanks!

Does anyone here know how to relic a maple neck, finger board and all. Looking for a nice worn look. Thanks so much.

Can anyone tell me if a tolex material finish would be the same as the material finish tutorial? I don't guess you would clear over tolex, would you? Thanks

Does anyone forsee any problems with putting a 22 fret neck on a body that previously had a 24 fret neck, as long as the scale is the same (25.5")? Thanks