Metalhead28

I do something similar to the above staple idea, but I use little nails. I tap them in a little and then snip them off leaving a tiny nib. I use them for tops, body wings and fretboards.

I use the same press, and I bought the cauls & holder from StewMac. It works great!

Same here, just drill a couple of holes to accomodate it.

It's definitely a risk.

I use a drum sander now, but I used to have pretty good luck dampening the wood before sending it through the planer.

I would agree that it's not usually as pronounced as what many people seem to think - but I think the impact of different woods is definitely there.

BTW, how is that Hannes bridge working? Worth the trouble of the mounting?

It was really no trouble, just had to pick up a couple of special sized bits. It even came with a nice template for lining everything up.

I really dig it, and if I wasn't such a bar user I'd surely try one myself. Super comfortable, and the tone is certainly there. I recommend it highly.

Good for you man! I remember you posting that one, and I still think it's a killer design.

"Diathesis"

(named for the Band of its soon to be owner)

25.5" scale

Wenge / mahogany 5 piece neck thru

Mahogany body wings

Claro walnut top & headstock cap

Ziricote fretboard 10-14 compound radius

Ivoroid binding

27 Stainless steel medium jumbo frets

Sperzel locking tuners

Graphtech nut

Schaller Hannes bridge

Bareknuckle "Nailbomb" bridge

Bareknuckle "Trilogy" neck

Master volume / master tone

5 way super switch (Neck / Neck+Bridge / Neck+Bridge split / Bridge split / Bridge)

Dyed maple TR cover with magnetic attachment

Machine one face of the board flat on the jointer before you rip your laminate from it - then run it through a planer. It's nice to have a perfectly flat face on the fence when you rip it as well.

are you guys talking about the allparts double action truss rod? I recently had trouble with hot rod rods and was actually looking for an alternative myself... Sorry for the partial hijack!

I thought I was saving money when I switched from LMII to Allied Lutherie at 15 bucks a pop. I suppose I will have to try these now. Can many of you guys speak for their quality?

I use a drum sander now, but before I had one I would dampen the wood before sending it through for very light passes.

Just wipe it with a damp rag and give it a minute to soak in. It usually helps a lot.

it's a pitty that instead of helping us each other ,many clever people here try to put the dialog into very low level....

IF YOU HAVE NOT TO SAY SOMETHING USEFUL PLEASE DONT WRITE NONSENSE...

SPEAK WITH NUMBERS,INFOS,PICTURES AND NOT WITH IRONY.....

IS THAT ALL THAT YOU HAVE?????????????????????

You're the only one taking the dialog to a lower level, friend - what with these raging admonitions of yours every time someone seems to disagree....

I agree with SamC and Wez, worrying that pencil lines are not accurate enough would suggest that my manufacturing techniques were more accuarate than pencil lines. I wish.

For what it's worth, I would never use a piece of hardware that demanded my calculations and construction be more accurate than what I can draw with pencil lines - and I'm not sure such hardware even exists. For example, the TOM bridge in your reference image above will allow your neck angle to vary widely and still work just fine. We're not talking pencil line thicknesses here, were talking a couple of degrees.

Hey guys!

I just finished up something a little different (for me), GOTM seems like a good place to share it.

I call the body style an "SS", so I'll go with that.

25.5" scale

Black limba body

Wenge / Mahogany 5 piece neck

Flamed maple drop top

Ebony fretboard

24 medium stainless steel frets

10-16" compound radius

Gotoh floyd rose with large brass sustain block, locked down for diving only

Seymour Duncan Custom & Jazz pickups

Master volume & tone, treble bleed, coil splits, 3 way toggle

Hipshot locking tuners

Nitro finish with oiled neck

Makes my hand cramp up just thinking about it.

Me too.

I used to think thin necks were where it's at for some odd reason. I wanted to shred and I think I just heard everybody talk about thin necks and shred at the same time so I thought there was something to it. I've seen a lot of people say thin necks are "faster" or whatever. I don't even know what that means.....?

Anyway, I used to look for guitars with the thinnest necks and never even really thought about how it was making my hand feel. When I finally got over that and graduated to bigger necks, I wondered what the hell I was thinking for all those years. My hands have been a lot happier too. So I definitely cringe at the thought of a really thin neck, and I often think people who are after ultra thin necks are possibly falling victim to hype rather than listening to what their hands are telling them.

However, it's not the feel of the neck that worries me the most....it's the thought of how it's going to sound with a stainless steel fretboard and an insignificant amount of wood.

Thanks alot guys.

Yeah, I'd also seen the 2' x 4' 30 mil vinyl bag for another 70 bucks or so, so the total cost doesn't bother me too much.

I'm eyeballing this kit:

http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Exc...ess-System.html

I wonder if anyone here would recommend against the continuous run set-up or might point me to a better alternative.

I primarily want it for doing drop tops.

Well, just like everyone else, I'm very impressed with this guitar. Very sweet.

Q: How does the truss rod cover stay on, magnets?

Yep.

Dude, I didnt relize it until now, but I totally ripped off your HS design! ......

Nah, dude - I really don't think they're that similar - certainly not similar enough to think it was a rip off.

(Some would say that I ripped mine off of someone else anyway, so who cares?)

Send me some more info on the raffle please. Got a few friends in the wonderful Commonwealth of Kentucky that might be interested.

It's just outside of Ashland Kentucky (Cannonsburg) at a little event called "Jamfest" that will be held this Friday thru Sunday, (the raffle will probably be called on Saturday night.)

Gotta be present to win, and it's a little out of the way.

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=ca...sa=N&tab=wl

Once you get to that area on 180 south, here are some directions: http://www.audioandanarchy.com/showthread.php?t=23578

I built this guitar to raffle off for charity at a music festival that I attend each year near Ashland, Kentucky. (If you're close by and want the info, let me know)

It was also a chance for me to build a prototype of sorts for a new design and see how cheaply I could build a great guitar.

It's got an alder body which was originally intended to be painted a solid color but time constraints got to me, a maple and walnut set neck, a ziricote fretboard, 24 jumbo frets, a Seymour Duncan Custom 5 / Jazz, and Hipshot bridge and tuners. It's nothing fancy, but it's probably one of my favorites so far.

Initial tests tell me that this thing has an amazing midrange growl, and just a good all around rock sound. Gotta make one for myself....

hardware store

Ah....good ole smartasses. Dime a dozen.

Anyone have an informative reply?

What is smartass about telling you to go to a hardware store when a hardware store is in fact a very common place to buy a router bit?

There are dimensioned drawings on the Floyd Rose website. That's what I used to make my templates.

I love being right.

Looks like you got the GOTM in the bag. Deservedly so ! Nice, nice work.

Actually, I'm getting smoked this month!

Man...I have been eyeballing those pups for a little while now..let me ask you..in bridge humbucker mode at high gain,how does it compare to the JB?

Definitely more bottom end, and they don't seem to have as much top end. Just sounds warmer and thicker overall to me.

I'm pretty sure they're the standard version, I wasn't aware of the hot version when I ordered them, but these still have a pretty nice output.

Metalhead28 - "GINGER" - A nice "wood porn" guitar. Love the color, and pretty much everything else... And it looks SO clean! How did you manage the transition between the body lacquer and the oil neck finish?

Thanks!

I masked off the neck up to just shy of where it meets the body wings and the edge of the heel, and afterwards I sanded to feather out the edge of the lacquer so you couldn't feel it before applying the oil.