dpm99

Actually, in that price range I'd want a stronger motor. Mine has the riser block, and I like it, but resawing anything much tougher than maple is a real challenge. The G0555X ($795) has 1.5HP. Or better, the G0513 is a 17" bandsaw with 2HP. Now there's a nice machine!

http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-Bandsaw-2-HP/G0513

I got my Grizzly G0555 off Craigslist for $250. The table was covered in a solid layer of rust, but otherwise it was in great condition. It's always worth looking into the used market.

The idea of the water heater element in a water filled pipe is intriguing if only because of the even heating it would create. On the other hand getting it hot enough to be useful may create some fairly high pressure in the pipe. How hot do the pipes need to get to be useful?

SR

I agree. If anybody ever tries this one, I'd love to see the build documented.

Jackholes come in all shapes and sizes.

That being said, I think the answer you're looking for is 3/8".

charcoal starter ? never heard of one. I dont get to do a lot of bbq here, always raining.

Just go over to OLF and search for the term "charcoal starter."

http://luthiersforum.com/forum/search.php?keywords=charcoal+starter&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

Here's a good discussion:

http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=38821&p=510203&hilit=charcoal+starter#p510203

There are a lot of things you could use. I just bought a full quart of Tru-Oil, and I doubt it will ever get outlawed in Texas, but if I were you, I'd pick up some Danish Oil.

A lot of guys swear by electric charcoal starters. I'd like to try that soon. Most of my bending gets done over the end of a clothes iron right now.

My 2 cents....

Wait it out. It looks awesome!

Side note: On these two I used the largest drum (it's pretty huge) on my spindle sander with a fence to make the transition... I would NOT recommend it. It's still too aggressive of a transition IMO. That's why from here-on out I'll be hand carving my transitions as I mentioned above.

Homemade drum sander FTW on those transitions.

Well, there's Fender. Search for Fender XII.

Who's got time to cut all those slots?? Chris, you're big-time now! Build one of those crazy machines Fender uses.

Should've read this before I replied to your pm. Thanks. I'm going with 100k, on your advise. That's convenient, because I can get a switching 100k pot at Radio Shack and won't have to special order.

Thanks for the responses. The volume will be after the preamp. I'm aware of the issues you guys mentioned. It's actually all going to be internal. I'm blending a piezo with a mag, and I need a buffer/preamp. I'm build one, but these are so cheap I'd rather save the trouble. I'll try to open it up and see what's going on in there, but it seems to me that if I just go piezo -> preamp -> volume -> switch, and put a switch in the ground line to the battery so it doesn't constantly drain, it ought to work. I'm open to other suggestions if anyone has any.

I guess I'll just start with something between 25k-100k and see how it works.

I can't seem to figure this out. Let's say I have an endpin preamp for acoustic guitar. Like this one...

http://www.guitarfet...it_p_6429.html#

And let's say I wanted to add a volume pot. Hypothetically, let's assume this preamp is installed according to its design, so my volume control would be external. What value pot should I use? My gut is telling me 100k, but I really have no idea.

Thanks!

Real pretty, John. I like it a lot.

http://www.gitarreba...&start=0#p18557

Yeah, that's the motherload.

I have a varitone in one of my guitars. Honestly, most of those are so close in value you may not be able to hear a difference. I like one tiny one, one huge one, one or two in the prescribed range for the pickup, and then crazy stuff, like this...

https://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Components:_Black_Ice_overdrive/Black_Ice.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=85

They're all over the internet. If you can't find one, pm me your email address. I think I have one.

For what we do, as long as it will adequately conduct the electrical signal, it's fine. I've tried a lot of different things. If I'm working with complex wiring schemes or small terminals (like the ones on push-pull pots), I'll use a very small wire, like a 28 or 30 gauge. Otherwise, something like a 22 is fine. Solid core wire is a temptation, as it's easy to work with, but it's more likely to fail over time, so stranded is the way to go. The insulation material comes down to personal choice. Cloth push-back is fun, but bulky. So mostly I prefer simple plastic insulation. Multiple colors help you keep track of what goes where.

Then you get into insulated wire. I'm not a big fan of the braided wire, because it likes to poke me and make me bleed. I prefer the kind that's insulated in foil. I've even made my own from foil and heat shrink plastic before, in a pinch.

That silver tinned stuff sounds really good though. I want to try some of that stuff.

This month is a three-carved-top-doublecut-horse race!

I think the fun thing about this month's contest is that there's going to be less division over taste, and more focus on execution. Congratulations to all three builders on completing your builds and having the courage to subject yourself to criticism! Here's hoping everyone gets some really useful critique.

Could it be hackberry/sugarberry?

I can tell you from experience that a belt sander can do the job.

The neck itself shouldn't be much of a problem. You'd have to redo a few steps, but that's no big deal. I think the hard part would be the body transition. You routed your neck pocket for that width. I'm not sure how you'd make that work.

The neck profile is done, and I have around 1/4" of wood beneath each truss rod. I was planning on a really thick neck from the start, which is part of the reason I decided on two truss rods. I wouldn't do this for somebody else's guitar, but I have long fingers.

Wes, it's kind of true for Gibson though too, wouldn't you say?