dpm99

I've been thinking about this. A brass nut is a good solution, but people like to change nuts. I like to change nuts sometimes. The zero fret solution would be difficult. You'd have to get just enough wire into the fret slot to make good contact with the fret tang, but not so much that the fret wouldn't seat properly. Or you could try to solder it, I guess, but I wouldn't even know where to start on that one.

Tomorrow's decision time. The board's going out to the workshop.

You're right, Mattia. And I'm not suggesting that this should be the new standard or anything. I just want to give it a try.

That purfling is crazy. Good work.

Nice, clean work. You're doing a good job.

Araz, that one made me laugh. I'm not sure why it's so funny, but it is. I'm sure you were able to fix it though.

Just in case anyone's curious, I tested four guitars today with a multimeter.

Late 90s Fender American Deluxe Telecaster (with Fender tuners)

1999 Taylor 710CE (with Grover tuners)

2004? Squier Bronco Bass (I have no idea.)

2010 Xaviere XV870 (with, I assume, Guitar Fetish's strat style tuners)

I tested electrical continuity from the midpoint of a string to every place I could think of on the tuners. Successful everywhere on the Tele, the Taylor, and the Xaviere. On the Squier, I did not have electrical continuity to two of the four buttons, but DID have continuity everyplace else on the tuners, including the housing, and (of course) the shaft.

So this should work. And I can't think of any reason not to try it The little wiring channels I make will be invisible, and I'm going to use a headplate anyway. Might as well try it.

It should work fine. There is also the option with the zero fret of grounding just one tuner.

Is there a reason your wanting to avoid the metal plate behind thr bridge?

Yeah, it just seems like an awkward solution. For one, that spot is the tonal focus of the soundboard. I know people use them successfully, but it just doesn't seem ideal. Also, I always worry one of the strings might not get good contact, especially if the plate wears a bit.

All in all, I think the metal plate is an ok way of doing things, but I'm wondering if this might be better. After I play around with a multimeter a little later, I'll have a better idea.

Yeah, I thought about that. There are a number of things like that I could do, but if I used the tuners, it would be invisible.

I've never carved a neck too thin like that, but I did once have a router screw-thing---whatever you call them slip once when I was cutting the truss rod channel and it went right through the back. I also slipped to the side once when cutting that channel. And then there was the time that I was carving the neck and came upon a little knot right behind the truss rod. All those went to the trash too. This one was just so darn close. But you guys are making me feel better.

I know, I know... Why would anybody ever do that?

I've been thinking about this for a while though. I'm building two hybrid electric/acoustic guitars right now with acoustic bridges and a combination of piezos and magnetic pickups. The conventional method of grounding the strings is to use metal beneath the bridge plate that the string ends will catch on. But I've been thinking about this. I haven't tested it, but I would assume there is electrical continuity within a tuning machine. I've never taken one apart, but I'm thinking it's mostly metal on metal.

So if I ran a wire beneath a headplate to each of the tuners, and run that to a wire that goes between the fretboard and the neck and out the heel end into a hollow body, I think I'd have a working ground for the strings.

Anyone have thoughts on whether or not this might actually work? (This is a set neck thing, by the way.)

Prostheta, I dare you to use jam on your next build.

I'm still sad about this, but picking up this piece of Bocote for a new neck did make me feel a little better. (Wood in it's most optimistic state)

So...just for the sake of posterity, in case anybody ever searches this thread out...

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Saws_and_slots/Refret_Saw_and_Fret_Slot_Cleaning_Tool_Set.html

I feel you. Been there, done that.

Nope. It was a rage repair. I messed up on the dot inlays and wasn't happy with it. I had all the fretwork done and was ready to glue it into the neck pocket. But after about a week of thinking about it, I decided I couldn't live with the inlays.

So I tried to remove the fretboard with an iron, but it was glued up so long ago that the glue just wouldn't give (Titebond Original). Then I decided I'd just sand it off. I was down to my last bandsaw blade - a 1/8" blade meant for scrolling work. The sanding was taking too long and I was frustrated. So I figured if I just cut off about half the fretboard on the bandsaw and sanded off the rest, everything would be fine.

It wasn't. Where you see that bit of the truss rod channel, I took off about 1/8" of the neck. I realize I could patch that with a sliver, but there have been too many issues along the way with this neck. All in all, it's just time to start over.

Yeah Wes. He's sad.

Thanks for saying that, Allan. I started into this in 2007 with almost no woodworking skills, and it's still an uphill struggle.

On days like today, I just want to quit and find a new hobby.

Yeah. Great. And some very innovative jigs.

I really miss the wood I used to get when I lived in San Diego.

Ok, sure.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=install+guitar+pickup

Rickenbacker clearcoat their fingerboards.

Then I stand corrected. Light oil finish it is.

I think I hit on a controversial topic, which wasn't my intention, and from the looks of things, a light finish is probably the answer to my problem. But just to stir the pot a little more, I don't think Rickenbacker ever finished their Bubinga fretboards, did they?

Ha! I'll consider burninating too. I think I'm gonna try a few things in order. First I'll go with the denim. If that doesn't work, I'll try steel wool. After that, I'll pull out the TruOil.

Wes, I understand what you're saying about it not being oily. It's not - not in the same way as rosewood or ebony, but I think it's significantly more oily than maple, for example.

Bob, it's dry. Last time I checked it was at 9%. Actually, that damp cloth idea isn't bad. Raise the grain and then sand. I might try that too.

As it is, it's not really so bad. It just has a few spots that aren't as smooth as I'd like.

No finish. I'm talking about raw wood. Warmoth does Bubinga necks without finishes, and I thought I might try it. It seems oily enough.