dpm99

I'm working on a solid Bubinga neck. Twice now I've tried sanding it to a finished state, and twice it's gotten rough again by the next day. Last night I was very careful to go through all the grits, from 100 all the way through 12,000 (with micro mesh). It was as smooth as glass. Then this morning, not so much. I'm guessing this is the grain raising in places I have runout. Has this ever happened to anyone else? And...what would you do? I was hoping to have an unfinished neck, but now I'm thinking a little TruOil or something. I don't know.

All I'm gonna say is I relate. I'm in the same position on the bass I'm building.

Some areas of the country are really dry right now. Those cracks could be related to humidity. Where do you live?

Wow. I love those soundholes.

Hey, when you audition pickups, I wonder if you're planning to make videos? Let posterity benefit from your work!

Use Photobucket. It sounds like it's split along the grain. If that's the case, I second the nomination of Titebond. I had to do that repair on a bass once. It's not uncommon.

Actually, that's a great place to start. Good luck!

In case it's not been said, your skills with a chainsaw are impressive. I've never ripped a line that straight with a chainsaw.

Upon cursory research,It seems like adjustable vents are the most important part of the kiln...

You need some way to regulate temperature. Most people use fans. A thermostat helps too, and I think people generally use thermostats from hot water heaters, if I remember correctly. If you do it, I'll be anxious to see how it goes. I don't think I have the money to build mine yet.

Also, if you need to ask some questions, here's a good place to go:

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/sawdry.pl?&session_id=

I've read that 1 year per inch of thickness is the recomended air drying time. I imagine YMMV.

SR

That's what people say. Have you guys even looked into building a solar kiln? It's been on my to-do list for a long time.

The problem with Texas Ebony is that the trees are so small.

DPM you're welcome to post the link to the build thread if you'd like.

Chris

And here ya go...

http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28438

You can get a chain specifically made for ripping. Also, for a cheap stopgap solution to the chainsaw mill, you could try something like the Haddon Lumbermaker. Several companies make something similar.

It's not just the heel that makes that guitar great. I've been watching Chris post about this one here and on OLF for a long time now. It's an impressive build through and through. I wish there were more close up pictures here, as I think some of the most impressive bits are easily overlooked. It's over the top. I bet it sounds awesome too, which is the most important part of an acoustic build.

Best build thread ever.

Nice Wes. I'm trying something similar with Mesquite.

Right. I forgot you do CNC. I bet those neck pickups will sound pretty similar to a humbucker in combination.

This is cool. Are you putting those pickups so close together for hum cancelling? And is that an overarm router?

I use these...

They're called solder lugs, and can be found here:

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_shield.htm

Instead of attaching to the bottom of a pot or switch, these go on top, and you solder your ground wire through the little hole. It saves you from burning pots too.

Even better - do racing stripe laminates.

Acrylic would be great. I've also considered a foam core covered in fiberglass, but it seems too labor-intensive, and I think more weight is helpful. My most successful solution so far has been mdf with some sort of metal core. But I don't like working with mdf. Laminates would make sense too.

It depends on whether you want to build one or build a bunch of them to sell. I make my own radius blocks, and have made a few as long as a fretboard. Maybe this will get your wheels spinning:

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/radius.htm

I built something similar to that, but with the router in a vertically mounted swing. I also have a method for producing them in numbers - and even with compound radii, but never got around to making them for anyone but myself. One thing you'll have to consider is that with a piece of wood that long, warping will be a factor. That's one reason I think you don't see the long ones in wood.

A sustainer and piezos? I'm not usually one to worry about feedback, but that sounds scary to me.

So you want to build an amplified acoustic guitar? Is that correct?

I'm not much of a CA guy. I reach for the Titebond a lot, but that won't work for inlay.