dpm99

Has anybody else tried this stuff? I've been using it lately for inlay and not hating it. I'd be curious to know if anyone else has an opinion

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/4/2/sg_ul_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Liquid-Control.htm

I'm gonna go with no. But it's a tone voodoo thing. Some people claim they can hear a difference. The bumblebee has the most mojo though.

On the other hand, you could make a mold and then do fiberglass necks.

It's just a tonal preference. Most will say the best choice is Adirondack (Red) Spruce, and Western Red Cedar can be used as well, though it isn't popular because it's not as strong as the spruces. In a pinch, just about any soft wood will work. It should be straight grained with very little runout. From there, it's more about the luthier than it is about the wood.

I'm building a wall hanger for four guitars. It's coming along well. I'm also working on a build, but my progress is so slow I'd need a time lapse camera to document the build.

You might try one of these:

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/preval-9-oz-complete-spray-gun-267.html#.UJ-3PYc83Ak

They were recommended to me by a local luthier that uses them a lot. Since they use compressed air,there's no condensation, you can put whatever you want in that little jar, and they do a pretty good job. You'd be better off with a nice Sata spray gun and a good compressor system, but short of that, I think this may be the way to go.

Actually, those are tonebuckles. The increase resonant convergence between the top and the back, allowing you to "tune" the box for variations in playstyles. The general concensus is that you tighten them for heavy plectrum styles and loosen slightly for finger style. You can also adjust the treble and bass response accordingly.

Or I could be full of crap.

What's to say? The Cobra is over the top. Hopefully we'll do Guitar of the Year again. I'll say this. I doubt there's anything on the commercial market that could hold a candle to it. If I owned a guitar shop, I'd buy it and put it behind glass. So...well done.

The other guitars were also great. I'd love to hear a sound clip of that acoustic.

Let me say this...

Building a neck is pretty similar in an acoustic and an electric. Electric guitar builders look at neck carving as one of the more difficult steps. Acoustic guitar builders look at it as one of the easiest steps. That says a lot to me.

But if you want to build an acoustic guitar, consider a kit. It's a challenge, but one that's within reach. Or if you really want to build an acoustic guitar, pick up some books and get to reading.

Woah! Big change. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

It's a controversial question, but my vote is to start using the yellow Titebond I (original) from here on out and leave your body blank alone. It should be fine.

My understanding is that as long as your final coat is satin, it doesn't matter what the rest are. The lower coats can be as glossy as you want and it will still be satin. The same is true if you do it the other way. If you build several coats of a satin finish, and do one glossy coat on the outside, it will be glossy. I've never done it, but so saith Bob Flexner.

Dang Orgmorg. That's awesome.

Good luck, and welcome.

Welcome Jim!

There were some guitars in this lineup that were so good, it actually brought me pain not to vote for them. But there was one guitar here that was, for me, a real dream guitar. Shad Peters got my vote for the carved top hollow body.

Welcome. Beautiful inlay work!

The simplicity of this is just great. Beautiful guitar. Looking at it makes me want to play it.

David, I like your jig - great use of cheap resources. I do cringe a bit when I see you reach over the blade to get to the power switch on the video. Can you move the switch to the front?

I could, but I sort of built it backward. At this point, I don't see me making that change on mine, but I'd recommend it for anyone else to tried to reproduce the jig. In the video, I turn it on and off a lot, but when I'm working, it mostly just stays on all the time. I'll be careful.

Here's mine, for what it's worth. I really like it.

There are a lot of great builders at this site that could do a fine job of that project, and I hope someone will PM you an offer. If that doesn't happen, I'd encourage you to do a custom neck from Warmoth.com. Other than the headstock, they could do that neck.

Try this thread. I think you're having the same issue.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=46219&hl=ground

That's your effects loop. An amp consists of two sections: preamp and power amp. Preamp generally has a bigger effect on your tone, and power amp affects your volume, though that's over-generalized. Do some Google searching on how to effectively use an effects (or fx) loop. Generally you'll stick modulation and time effect pedals in there, but it all depends on what you want to do.

So the "Acoustic Pickup Adapter" is the plastic thing that holds the humbucker in place? I don't think your preamp is really designed to blend in a magnetic pickup. If you want to add in a magnetic pickup without making any permanent changes to your guitar, the only thing I can think of is to replace your jack with a stereo jack. Then you run the existing line from your preamp into one channel of the stereo jack, and run the magnetic pickup into the other channel. You will then use a stereo cable instead of a normal guitar cable. At the other end of the stereo cable, you split the signal again. One channel is as it was before. The other is your magnetic pickup, which you'll run into...whatever.

I really can't think of anything else that doesn't involve drilling holes.

Robosanders are primarily for sanding when you a couple of mm from final shape. Also, bear in mind that drills are often unable to take side load otherwise Morse taper chucks just fall out.

This is true, but it works for me. I have a cheap, old drill press I use for this job. It's held up so far.