MasterMinds

The board bypasses the switch when the Sustainer is turned on. Hook up the output to the output jack and you're done.

crafty - what "output" are you refering to hooking up to the jack?

the lines run out of the circuit to the switch. then the lines run back from the switch to the jack.

so which two of the 3 or 4 outputs that run to the switch should actually be running to the jack?

Hey - can anyone here help me out in my thread? So far it's unsolvable it seems.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=25882&hl=

Need to know how to set the driver-only option up for a single bridge pickup with NO tone, NO volume, and NO pickup selector - allowing the harmonic portion of the circuit board to still work - (I know how to set it up so it would sustain properly, but the harmonic won't work)

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Spazzy - I'd like your assistance once again! (or anyone else)

For the three-pickup selector diagram here:

http://fernandesguitars.com/manuals/FSK101.pdf

My setup has:

NO volume

NO tone

NO pickup selector (it just has a bridge pickup)

The answers you provided help partially, but include a 3-way selector, which I do not have.

So can you simplify the diagram for me? Thanks a million man - fernandes has been no help!

I have a question on mounting my pickups using a cover ring.

The cover ring has holes for the two screws that go through it, through the pickup, and use the spring to raise/lower it.

When I set the screw in the cover ring, the bottom of the screw does not even touch the wood of the guitar deep in that crevase (sp?) below the pickups hole for the screw

Does the screw not go through the word, and just supposed to fit tightly into the pickup hole or what?

if there's something wrong with my screws, where can I get new ones?

thanks!

I am applying water-based clear satin varnish (recommended by stewmac) to my guitar

Should I do the neck, including the fretboard?

and if so - do you recommend covering the frets with tape?

any other tips

thanks!

spazz - so would you say this is a good solution

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...es.html#details

as well as this?

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...ck.html#details

Am I right that the first one listed doubles as a strap holder as well?

And this one

http://store.guitarfetish.com/chguenjapefo.html

isn't a stereo jack is it?

as far as omiting the pots thats as easy as this

on the diagram do this

the white/black wire's coming from the three way switch

strait to the white/black wire's on the output jack

you are just eliminating the pots

do you have the vh-401 bridge pickup?

spazzy - i have the 101 setup, my own bride pickup (dimarzio)

not the 401, i was wrong. diagram above is the right one, and is a 101

post a pic and/or diagram...and see if you can keep the questions to one thread, makes it easier to answer them...

The jack should be standard, but...a stereo or switched jack is often used to turn off the power so the battery doesn't go flat when the guitar is unplugged.

Again...hard to say what you have or give advice. Either way...you can get replacement jacks, maybe even the guitar's old jack would do...but we need to see what we are dealing with! pete

the sustainer has an on/off switch for this - so I'm not sure why I'd need a switched jack?

What brand of bridge pickup

and or what color are the wires from the pickup

and are you sure no volume pot? what about a kill switch?

your going to want some way to kill the volume going to your amp

at some point.

kill the volume going to my amp?

my guitar runs through various fx and then the amp - i control volume on other equipment, never on my guitar.

the bridge pickup is a dmmarzio hmbucker - believe it's a PAF pro

In this file

http://fernandesguitars.com/manuals/FSK101.pdf

It is the diagram on page 3 that says "3 way pickup switch"

Thanks!

i have the 401 - the one that doesn't come with a regular pickup, and the driver that does not act as a pickup, and it has two switches.

meaning a regular stereo jack is just fine? right? what do you mean by power on/off?

The fernandes sustainer comes with a jack that has a VERY short thread section, making it hard for my routing plan.

Can anyone here tell me that this jack is not unique, and any other jack is designed to handle the cables the same way? I can't tell anything unique, but want to check with the gurus here.

Thanks a million guys!

I need an electrical diagram for installing a fernandes sustainer in a system with just one bridge pickup, and NO volume or tone controls.

By removing these from the provided diagram I still cannot figure it out. I'm willing to paypal 30 bucks at least, for a diagram you can post online or email to me.

Thanks.

southpa - thanks, let me be more specific.

the neck is maple, the fingerboard maple, and the body alder.

i want the would to look identical to how it is now - i just want to protect it, thats all!

given that I have little tools - but can spend a littl emoney if needed, what is the simplest way to protect it without altering it?

thanks!

Yes you should put some sort of coating over bare wood to protect it. You have lots of options, eg. translucent, solid paint, oil, etc. It depends on how you want your guitar to look and whether or not you have the abilities and equipment to do it right.

There is literally TONS of information in this forum, start doing some reading, lots of it. If you know what kind of wood you are dealing with then you can narrow your search down quite a bit. There is more than one way to skin a cat and most of those ways have been mentioned in the "Inlays and Finishing" chat and tutorial sections.

Right now the neck and body are just wood, nothing on them.

Do I have to apply some sort of protective finish to keep hand oil etc.. from discoloring the wood long term?

If so, what completely clear finish would you reccomend

And also, is there any sort of finish that can actually make wood lighter, versus darkening it?

PS: The neck has frets so I dunno if I can apply finish in that area? on the fingerboard?

Thanks!

I am installing a sustainer circuit into my brand new warmoth body. It has no holes in the front except pickup, driver, and bridge.

I only need to turn the sustainer on and off when I play, not constantly.

What I want to do is mount it reverse, so that the switches face the backside, so the front of the body stays untouched.

Right now my idea is to use two side-by-side battery boxes (the kinds with the opening door, not the cartridge) so you can open the door and access the switch which stays inside the body.

The only problem I have is the circuit is held to the guitar by the knobs, which won't be attached if I reverse it.

Does anyone have ideas of how I could do this, or a better battery box replacement to use?

Thanks!

Hi. My guitar currently runs its ONLY pickup straight to the OUTPUT JACK, with a GROUND of course.

No selector switch, no volume, and no tone (don't want them).

I have the fernandes sustainer that comes with just the driver, no pickup. The driver does not operate as a pickup either, and I don't want it to.

The diagram, located here:

http://fernandesguitars.com/manuals/FSK101.pdf

Shows how to do it with tone, volume, and 3 way.

I would EXTREMELY appreciate someone who can help me on how to write it with the single pickup!

Thanks a trillion!

I am making a body (going to use my existing neck for now).

The body will be easy to make via my design; all I have to do is cut the outer shape, and route a single rectangular hole, and drill two holes for two switches and two holes for the non-trem bridge screws.

My main concern is routing the area for the neck to join the body.

How do I determine the measurements (the ideal ones, not the actual ones) for my existing neck. If I measure my existing hole are there ideal measurements to compare it to?

I'm concerned because I know a millimeter is too big an error.

What would you recommend?!?

I want to replace my trem with a non-trem. Don't ask me why, please.

The trem is a rose, it has those two pieces anchored into the wood.

My question is, would THIS bridge work as a replacement, by just fitting into those two spots and being at the correct distance? Otherwise I don't see why those two pegs are there on this one, since a normal non-trem doesn't have them

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...e/Pictures.html

That's my goal is to replace it with that, making it easier to string and no bullshit as I do not like "tremelo" at all whatsoever.

I thought by recessed you meant the cut out cavity. If not then I am not sure what recessed means - and how I would need to change to neck.

Describe it to me - also even a cheap TOM is on the high end - I don't need much really, just one name out of the billions that will fit an "ibanez" style guitar will do. if it looks nicer that'd be cool.

so what is recessed i dunno.

Hey guys - i can buy parts from anyone who ships to USA. I didn't mean i would only buy from them.

they usually have a variety but there bridge parts are stragely small

anyways - let me say again to be clear.

i am putting a wood block in to fill the recess for the previously tremelo - the guitar will look as if it had no recess in it.

So, that said - and all retailers open - what is a decent solution for under 70 dollars - i would like it to be silver, will settle with gold.

Thanks guys!

I want to remove the double locking tremelo from my guitar and replace it with a standard bridge.

Currently I am fitting a block of wood to go into the slot and fill it so it will be ready. What I need help with is picking a bridge and knowing how to handle installing it. MF pretty much only carries tunomatics, which is what I plan on going for most likely.

What I really need to know from these is:

1. how deep does the hole in the guitar go to hold the bridge mounts.

2. what kind of whole does it require - threaded, or something special to hold it and yet allow for action adjustment.

Anything else you think I might need to know would be nice. If you'd recommend something other than the tunomatic let me know - but it seems like the best solution.

I'm also going to put a standard nut on for simplicity sake - any suggestions?

Thanks guys!

The right composite would wear far less than the nickel/silver stuff we use, MasterMinds.... and when making slides on a guitar the way it already is, you're  not making contact with the fingerboard.  You're gliding across the strings themselves, with only enough downward pressure to put them in contact with the frets.  It would NOT make sliding harder to use stepped frets.

I'm keen on the clear idea-- imagine having your beautifully laminated neck-through visible all the way from end-to-end?  Spectacular possibilities open up...!

Greg

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Well, I guess I am thinking of normal glass. ANd about the sliding i guess you are right. I mean, when sliding we alread slide over top the fret and up on top of each one in the slide - so i guess it would work out.

visually it looks like it would not slide, but i guess physically it's no different.

i really like this idea - so guy who is gonna do it - let us know and perhaps you can make us some step-board necks to screw in and try out - I'd certainly be interested in buying one!

The idea is nice - but it does not allow slides upward, and any idea that limits playability is just a concept.

But making frets out of something else sounds neat - like glass. Sure they'd wear badly but oh well.

I still like the idea of no fingerboard, and just having the neck with tall frets that reach to where they'd normally be in a guitar. Basically like a "scalloped" guitar except it's not scoop out, it's completely dug out like a grave between each fret.

Ta ta