bacanador

It will be difficult to remove the sanding sealer without sanding of the veneer, I tried something similar once and ended up removing the veneer.

Long time ago I saw some post about a guy that was able to remove the sealer from the body of a similar PRS kit (maybe the same) and was able to do really nice PRS type finish on it. I wish I could find that post, I don't even remember if it was on this forum.

Couldn't find the thread on the magma attack, maybe its been removed

Thank You for the kind words.

Which one, Magma or the Tele, they were done two different ways.

You can see the directions for Magma by following the thread.

The Tele burst was done by wiping on the dark brown waterbased anilyne dye, sanding back, letting dry, wiping on the waterbased basecoat amber color, let dry, then using an airbrush to do most of the rest of the burst, that's why it has such a beautiful, almost imperceptible gradual fade to the center part of the burst, because the waterbased dyes blended into each other before any finish was applied.

The outer edge burst was applied as a tinted color coat, after clear coats and leveling, but most of what you see was done before any finish was applied, all waterbased dye with an airbrush.

So you can see the difference between applying waterbased bursts before finish, and applying tinted toner coats as part of the finish, all on the same guitar.

I love the Tele, I'll take some pics when the weather warms up and post them, it turned out great.

On my post I meant the Magma, but the Tele is equally beautiful, would love to see the pics of the finished guitar, thanks for sharing this info, I am going to try it.

It's been a few years since Magma Attack, but I'm here if you have any questions, and thanks for the nice words.

You are the famous Drak, impressive work, I've done a few quitled maple tops but nothing as good looking as the picture shown above, the bookmatched grain pattern is awesome, and it actually looks like fire.

How do you achieve the awesome 3D effect. Any special tricks?

Or is it what we all know, dye dark sand back, dye with the light colors, and clear coat.

Oh my how do you do this??

It is almost 3D, I guess it is dying dark sanding back several times, I've done it, I have never achieved a finish so good looking as this one.

Anyone?

To me, it seems you could have done the center with a very very thinned ratio of dye to alcohol. It just looks like it was too much dye. Not necessarily too dark of a pigment in the dye.

Also, are you familiar with drybrushing? The concept is to dip a brush in the paint, then wipe off all the visible paint from the brush. Only in between the bristles, should there be very light amounts of paint. Then, you do a lot of brushing to get a little paint onto your work.

This can easily be applied to staining/dyeing. Mix up your dye with a much broader ratio, like maybe only a few drops of dye to an entire cup of alcohol. Then, get your brush dipped and clean off as much dye as you can. Then, even if you do strong strokes with the brush, only a little dye gets into the wood at a time. Then you'll increase the number of coats needed to get as dark as you want. Lots of control, lots of chances to go just a little bit darker as you progress.

Also, it's not too late to sand back that body. Do a high grit paper like 220, or maybe even steel wool, and just scuff back the center until it lightens up.

Thanks for the info

I hadn't heard of drybrushing before, it seems like it would yield better results, I already started another project, and it also came out much darker, but looks better I think.

I will do this on another body, it didn't come out bad, and it takes to much time to finish a guitar, I would rather start a new project, this guitar isn't for me it is for my brother and he loved the results, so I'm cool with it, it is just not what I had in mind

thanks again, will try the brush on the next one

Jose

Re colour: test, test and test again. That warmoth looks like it would require very bright colours in the middle-I'd likely apply a stain basecoat of lemon yellow or similar, and test s'more. You want colours that look like they're going to be waaaay to OTT if you want something that in-your-face toned, and then it's down to concentration (how dilute/strong), application and testing. The colour under a clearcoat will always be pretty different.

That might work, dying with lemon yellow first, would you suggest applying the blue with tinted clear, or on to the wood directly. by they way what is OTT?. I will try this on a quilt maple telecaster body.

Thanks

Rich,

Does "Perry" have a website?

I gotta see something that you think is amazing...

-John

Last time I checked. Look up Ormsby guitars.

His Work is amazing, those guitars look awesome

I think it looks great too..

I have a question for this thread. I'm planning on doing something similar, and Rich said

"The nice thing about the tinted clears is that you can control the shade much better than with wiped dye, and you retain the depth and movement in the figure."

Does that mean I get a better result if I don't dye the wood with a wipe on, but tint the clear coat? I've always read that I put on some tint, sand back, put my color or multiple colors until I get what I want and then several coats of clear.

Is there a second method that I'm missing?

This is my first attempt. So, I'm looking to learn one method and get it figured out to where it works for me.

Thanks.

-John

I have tried putting only tinted clear, and the figuring doesn't show as much, I guess the trick would be a combination of both, that is what I will try next time.

I think it looks great We are just talking about a tint issue. You probably could play with your initial wiped dye tint to back it off a bit. Use the tinted clears to develop a better range of color and depth. Look at the tinted blue on the left side of the waist. You can really see a nice shade of blue coming through. The nice thing about the tinted clears is that you can control the shade much better than with wiped dye, and you retain the depth and movement in the figure. Looks to me like you just need to play with your shading a bit and you can achieve just what you want.

Peace,Rich

Thanks for the input, I guess it will be a trial an error till I get the color I want, it just gets expensive , I will try this again on another body and see if I can get closer to that warmoth finish.

Thanks

Jose

Did you spray or wipe the base coats of dye, then tint your clears for the burst, then finish with clear?

I wiped the dye. I did lightly tint the clear with blue, and finished with clear, would spraying the dye give better results?

It depends, if you were able to get a good even base coat of dye then spraying wouldn't help. If you tinted and sprayed to add the burst (this would have been my suggestion if you had not). Tinted clear will keep the figure lively. The "stain black and sand back" will give you a look that does not move as well as the light plays on it(you are painting the shadows on), although it looks good in a picture.

How about a picture of what you came up with. You may have a knockout look, and we are just talking about a subtle shading adjustment.

Here is a picture, as you can see the blueish green became green and it is much darker than the color I wanted to achieve

Did you spray or wipe the base coats of dye, then tint your clears for the burst, then finish with clear?

I wiped the dye. I did lightly tint the clear with blue, and finished with clear, would spraying the dye give better results?

How did you apply your color?

I applied Dark Blue dye first, then I let it dry sanded it back almost to bare wood, then mixed a blue with a little bit of yellow because I wanted to achieve that turquoise color and applied it, the final result was nice, but the color was not what I expected, after I applied the clear coats, the color changed even more and looks green now.

Hello

I have been experimenting with dyes for some time, and last time I tried doing something similar to warmoth's blue burst

Even though my finished guitar didn't come out bad, I didn't get the same effect, I tried using a dark blue sanding back and applying a lighter blue mixed with a little bit of green. for the burst I decided to go with green, cause I wanted to make it somewhat different, but the center I wanted the same color. The guitar came out fine but the look is not as good. Does anyone have an idea on how to achieve this effect, or even this color, Mine came out a much darker shade of a blueish green.

Thanks in advance for any input on the subject