thedoctor

Sounds like he just needs a DI box schematic. If you insist on building it, it shouldn't be too bad a project but the factory made ones are down to $29.00 thanks to some new one-chip preamp/gain thingy that is happy running on a 9 volt battery.

LK, do you mean that the wiper on one stack is at zero impedence clockwise from center and the other is at zero counterclockwise from center? It isn't all that clear from their schematic.

I also repair welding equipment and an optical pedal wouldn't last two hours in that environment. We do use an optical rotary encoder on the automated and panel-mount controls but the footpedals survive longer with mil-spec sealed pots. Inductive pots like we use on joystick controls last forever but they are very noisy electrically and require 12 vdc to work. Only available in 10k or less. Johnson uses opticals on their footpedals but you have to wipe your feet before you use them and clean the little film-arm twice a year. Never tried or seen a Morley.

Tell your dad to visit our repair forum: welddoctor.net. Lots of welding and fab. stuff aimed at the repairperson.

There you go, Meegs! Get the best deal for the time you are gonna put in! If the Navy gives you a sweet deal, take it over to the Marine rectuiter and tell him to beat it! This is not a greedy thing or selfish. This is what you are owed by the rest of us that are not currently in active service. Go for it big time. It is a seller's market!

Wes, my memory isn't what it used to be but isn't that your first post on this forum? Maybe not.

I have one nephew who was in Iraq for a year and a half and another that will finish basic in 2 weeks, both Marines. These are both great guys with a very good civic/patriotic sense of obligation and I am very proud of them. However, I wish I had been involved in their recruitment process because they didn't get the sweet-deals that will help them in their education and future, post-service life. If you are going to sacrifice 4 years of your life for the good of this country, you should be given some pretty nice benefits to compensate. I stared at recon photos for 2 years between Korea and Nam and was not ever in danger, other than bad food. Marines are in it for real. You have my personal respect and gratitude.

Matt, I just figured out that you do that spelling stuff on purpose. You are one funny dude!

Welcome, Pete, and stay out of Wes's way. He loves to crunch him some newbies! Just don't take it personal. We are trying to get psycotherapy insurance for ALL the mods.

It depends to a huge extend on the amp but the rule with modern guitar amps is that they are all happy with hi-Z inputs. For preamp design, I would think you would be more interested in voltage and sensitivity. DR and that kinda stuff.

Shim and redrill so that the neck is sitting a 1/4" out of the pocket. Or more. Asthetics will now be your problem but I think you could work around that with a pickgaurd.

Did it ever sound good? If not, you may need to pot all of your pickups. You may have one that was never potted.

Did you paint the body seperate from the pickgaurd? Or did you have to paint the pickgaurd while it was on to get your design? Krylon CrystalClear is a good easy topcoat but you have to be sure it will not react with the airbrushed paint you have already put on.

As a test, put a piece of matchbook cover cardboard under the next D string you put on to cushion the bridge saddle contact. Your breakover angle may be too severe for that string and you will have to do a small amount of radiusing.

Aluminum laser and plasma cuts quite well and is not flammable in standard atmosphere.

Sobot, believe it or not, I know what you are trying to do and, yes, you can do it. It is a tough balance but with a double-gang or dual-pot you can get the tone and volume (output) to follow each other. The early Fender Jazzmaster did this in a totally unintention manner. If you buy a modern 500k dual-pot and play with the tone capacitor value, you will get there. The value of the tone cap can be trimmed by using a 470k or less 1/4 watt resistor hooked to the tone layer of the dual pot from the wiper to the cap connection. It takes time to get it balanced.

Lovecraft, you have probly already thought of this but to prevent folk from making multiple decisions, how about a patch cord with the tone pot and all external to allow customer testing/tuning before the soldering commences? OH, Stimpy, you IDIOT!!

No, never had to cause I got money. Poochy and my grandaughter each got a $600.00 debit with the local emporium to build "women's axes with attitude". They showed up with their ideas twice and it was a done deal. Only thing was the parts had to come from FRC, the store, and the store got to use them in promos for six months. Like I told them, you don't know till you ask and don't plan for failure.

Since everything else is going to be Evinrude , ie: outboard, I think the simple shorting pot as LK suggests is good except the value should be closer to 1 or 1.5 meg. If the top of the pot's range doesn't do anything, go to a lower value.

I guess you people haven't bought much advertising. It is better if it is non-mainstream, one-of-a-kind and even wierd. That is the attraction. How many of you would drive 30 miles to see the new Squire Tele model with white pickups? The only reason you don't see this as a legit pursuit is cause you never done it! There you go again with them negative vibes, man! (Country-music in the background over EV horns) Woof, woof.

Guitar Players Widows and Orphans Fund, International. Send all funds and trivials to Jason C/O this web site. Your generous contributions are largly ignored!

You got a sharp edge somewhere down at the bridge. Remember, it doesn't have to be much to break a D string. The SD/JB for 7-string is cool but for the bridge I prefer a SD rail. Hot or cool as you like .

There are two similar topics running on this very same issue but I chose this one to put in some more info. Doc, who is often confused with me, has a diamond dressing technique that he uses to get his plane knives to play nice. I use a 50 year old Black and Decker powered oil-stone to do the same kinda thing. A good edge on a quality piece of steel would plane well in any type of holder. My favorites are wood block planes but they can't hold a candle to the slippery cast iron ones for making a smooth, long plane. Wax the base plate and keep the blade ultra-sharp and it don't matter how the thing is made or what it cost. IMHO IMHO IMHO

You need to pad the nut or replace it. You don't want to have to wrap or tape the string every time you replace it, do you?

Hands down, the best "lead" players I have ever played with are somewhat timid about taking over. They usually sit back and do an occasional bit of sparkle and when their time comes to dominate they take over smoothly and politely, do their thing, and back out. My nephew, "The Gripper", sets the two channels of his Genz so that one is his background and one is his "step forward" setting and switches with a bypass pedal that swaps channels and changes the effects loop. It ain't a volume thing as much as tone/effects. Ya get comfy with a lot of transitional riffs and just use them to tie your old rhythm stuff together and you are there.

No! Cut it as close to the finished size as soon as you start. That way you will know if it is going to give you splitting problems up front. Heartbreaking to get down to the final shaping and have a bunch of uglies show up at the party.

I think you will be happier with the .01 caps, as LK said. The noisless(sic) are my #1 refit and I have no clue why. People are always happier with the lower value cap, when given the choice. If I don't show them the alternative, they don't know but that would be decieteful. What horrible spelling!