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Ledzendrix1128

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Posts posted by Ledzendrix1128

  1. I recently visited my grandpa who is about to move, and i saw an old roundback mandolin on the shelf, i took it home with me, and i researched the name L. Ricca (which i found looking through the soundhole). Turns out hes an old builder who stopped making mandolins in 1898... Its just an awesome feeling knowing that i have an instrument (in remarkably decent condition) thats over a century old...

    Ill put some pics up tomorow of what i need to do to repair it, and ill probably try to get some info on repairing cracked tops from the acoustics sections of the forum

    but in the meantime, does anyone know if its possible for me to find exactly how old this thing is... it has a Seriel number, but i dont know where to start in finding out who to talk to about this mandolin, there isnt very much on Luigi Ricca on the web from a quick google search, but maybe i can dig a little deeper and pull up something.

  2. once again, another amatuer opinion, but I wouldnt use a titebond type glue. Someone please correct me if im wrong, but my woodshop teacher told me that the best thing to use for endgrain is epoxy. He said that the water in a waterbased glue (like titebond) will get soaked up into that grain. Epoxy is thicker so supposedly it will yeild better results. But once again, someone feel free to chyme in if im wrong.

    He also recommended sealing the endgrain once (spreading a thin coat on both of the glueing surfaces with your finger), before actually glueing it with the glue you plan on using, and let it get tacky, close to dry, but not completely. Then you can put on more glue and clamp everything up. The tacky glue you put on as the "sealer" will stop alot of the glue from soaking up into the pores of the wood.

  3. I played baseball and football when i was a kid. I ran track in highschool for a year, then i got into soccer, then I got into volleyball, and then i tore my ACL and had to get knee reconstructive surgery. Doc says if i keep working out i can do some intermural league stuff, but im content with music as of now.

  4. that actually started out as an error on my part about a year ago when i started building it, i ran the whole thing through the planer after the wings were glued on. This made it pretty easy to get everything level, which is the advantage, but the disadvantage is that you have to glue on 2 fretboards. I like the walnut spacer though, at first i was kicking myself cuz i had to do it, but now i have kinda grown to like it. Sound wise I can't really notice anything different about it either.

  5. She's Finally done, here are the specs -

    Specs

    - Thru-neck maple/walnut sandwich

    - ebony fretboard

    - mother of pearl dots

    - 16" fretboard radius

    - 34" scale length

    - Gotoh compact bass tuners

    - Bone nut

    - Ash wings w/ black grainfiller

    - Tung Oil finish

    - 2 seymour duncan basslines pickups (one p-bass one J-bass)

    - 2 volume knobs and 1 master tone knob

    - Schaller 4-string roller bass bridge

    ...and now for some pictures

    cf23811e.jpg

    more pics

    http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ledz...28/66db9b48.jpg

    http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ledz...28/1f099f3a.jpg

    http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ledz...28/f3a7e2af.jpg

    http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ledz...28/e111ded7.jpg

    http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ledz...28/e37d28fe.jpg

    http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ledz...28/1c02a536.jpg

    and my favorite pic...

    http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ledz...28/889c4a43.jpg

  6. hm, there are many options, the way I would go about this is tape over the maple, spray a cherry toner coat onto the mahogany, remove the masking tape on the maple, then tape the cherry colored mahogany (not really necessary, you COULD just scrape the dye off the toner coat, but tape will make it less messy) and you could dye the maple with a wipe on dye. The main thing you want to avoid is using a wood dye with only tape, i tried this on a top to get a natural binding and the wood soaked it up which left an un-clean looking line. If you use toner coats they wont bleed and itll leave a pretty clean line as long as you do the taping right.

    Do a search for "natural binding" and read up on that, it should give you an idea of what to do here.

  7. not that im tryin to sound like a dick, but i said low end guitars LIKE squiers and epiphones, it was probably misleading, but i was just trying to point something out for him to check into before he starts drilling holes into a fretboard that might turn out to have an overlay....

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