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Ledzendrix1128

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Posts posted by Ledzendrix1128

  1. I don't think there's much difference at ALL in the sound of the above mentioned strings. I think they all feel different though.

    Really, I think each of those strings has a distinclty different sound, earnie balls v. GHS strings inparticular sound extremely different. But maybe its just me, theres a lot of factors at play when it comes to strings.

  2. by flat i believe (correct me if im wrong) that you just need to sand the finish thats on the guitar till its flat (as in level) and flat (as in shininess). Ive refinished a few crappy guitars and there was no need to sand it all the way back down to the wood if you are painting with solid colors. You are basically going to need to sand only the finish, keeping it level (dont focus with the sand paper too much on one area or you will get a dip in the final finish). This will give your color coats something to stick to, if you just paint over top of the unsanded clearcoat, then the paint will probably peel or flake off. Someone correct me if im wrong, but this has worked for me on a few guitars now...I hope im right.. .lol

  3. Stick with the polyurethane.

    Good luck getting Kinkos to print that stuff for you. They are pretty picky about not touching any copyrighted or trademarked material (for legal reasons).

    yeah, ive got a pretty decent printer here. I think im gonna try out this waterslide decal paper with my printer. I want it to look nice, so if it turns out a little bit off then ill look around for another solution i supopse

    thanks again,

    Louis

  4. Ok, I found a site where i think im gonna order these papers from, and I read this at the bottom of the page.

    "NOTE: Due to shipping regulations, we are unable to ship Krylon acrylic spray with our Inkjet decal paper. You can buy this locally. It is available at Loews, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Walmart, etc. Any acrylic clear coat spray will work. Note that the laser/color copier paper does not require application of the spray."

    http://www.decalpaper.com/inkjet.html

    It recommends using acryllic laquer, I'm not really sure if this is because they have a thing for kylon or not. I have polyurethane **EDIT - didnt mean to say laquer here** sealing the base coat now. Would I be better off clearing over the decals with the krylon it says to use, or should I stick with the polyurethane that I already have laid down?

    Thanks again,

    - Louis

  5. Ok, for the pink floyd tribute strat ive got going for me i was wondering how i should go about the characters. I have a clearcoat over the base coats, and I was just wondering if i wanted to go about doing decals, a) what should i get kinkos to print them out as, and :D where can i find a high quality picture of the pink floyd characters. Ive got a pretty good scanner, so im thinking about scanning the logos from the actual album cover at a very high quality and taking the files to kinkos to get them printed out. ANY suggestions at all as to how to go about doing this would be much appreciated, im sorta in the dark on this one.

  6. So, i glue on an ebony fretboard to my bass, checked it over twice, went out for the night. I was happy knowing that the next morning id have a nice fret board on the bass finally. But nope, i came home in the morning, looked at it... seemless joints, but over night a clamp slid out of line, so at the nut, it was offline with the neck by about 1/8". BTW, this FB is preslotted and pre radiused. So i melted it off with an iron and scraped off all the dried glue, and took it into woodshop. This time i used wood clamps instead of C clamps. I spread the glue onto the neck again, and re glued the fret board. FINALLY!! a clean job, perfectly online, and all the clamps were sturdy and had no chance of moving. But I made the mistake of not using a caul with the radius. The water based glue supposedly made the fret board cup, and now it looks like there is a radius in the opposite direction. (Of course, i took the fretboard off, and in my rage cut my hands numerous times. I didnt pay attention to where the iron was either and have many burns on them). But oh well, heres my question, my shop teacher seems to think we could still save the fret board by putting 2 hardwood rails on the edges of the fretboard and clamping it that way, and sort of bending it back. He seems to think this will work, and i waited so long for LMII to send me this fretboard, so i really dont want to have to order a new one. I plan on truing the radius up with a radius block too after i glue it. So i think this should be a decent fix, let me know if you guys see any trouble ahead. Thanks again

    - Louis

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