thomasteven

Hi,

I have a beautiful, new Larrivee guitar that I got for christmas and I was looking for an opinion on if I should bring it with me on my trip to Cuba. The reason I am not sure about bringing it is because of the humidity difference between my hometown (St. John's, Newfounldland, Canada) and Matanzas, Cuba, which is where I will be staying. Anyone with any experience, ideas or insight please let me know.

Steve

Hey,

I was wondering if there is anywhere that has the inlays for the Les Paul Supreme pre-cut? I absolutely love them and that guitar. I want to make the guitar I'm working on now pretty much a replica of it.

If anyone knows or can make them for a reasonable price, I'd appreciate you letting me know.

Thanks,

Steve

So what would you recomend using for a first guitar?

I tried doing a search on this topic but couldn't find much.

So what is the difference between nitrocellulose and Polyurethane? (don't mind spelling) I'm trying to plan out the build of my guitar and am not sure which one to use. I've read that poly is much harder to work with and takes longer to cure.

Thanks Clavin, but if you don't need a jig to keep your router straight, than how do you drill the route for the inlay right? If you just follow the radius, won't the sidewalls be curved a bit.

You should check on eBay. Just do a search for "flamed maple veneer", your guarenteed to get some hits.

I have just got a neck custom made for me and I'm planning on doing an inlay on it. It was already radiused and the fret slots were already cut. I was wondering if anyone can tell me how to make a jig to keep the router straight.

I also wanted to know if I had gotten this idea down. Here's my understanding as to the steps of doing an inlay:

1. Cut out your inlay.

2. Trace the inlay pattern onto the fretboard. (I'm not sure if this would work on radiused boards either)

3. Route the pattern into the fretboard.

4. Glue in your inlay.

5. Use a file(or radius block, your preference) to get the inlay level with the fretboard.

6. Clean up the area with progressively finer grades of sandpaper.

If I missed anything, or if there's anything that could be done better, please let me know.

I've seen multiple posts about this over the last few weeks.

I didn't know that they weren't answered "well". If they were't you could always bump it and see if you'll get a decent reply again. Sorry for being quick to react. Friends?

You need to solder the ground lug on the volume pot to the back as well, or any ground point you want, for that matter.

The ground lug is usually the one on the very left, if you were looking down on the back with the lugs pointing up.

What about with humbuckers? How much does it help?

Thanks for the fast reply LK, will the screw pick up any interferance due to most of the screw being outside of the shielding?

Also, I was wondering if you should shield the pickup cavities? I've always wondered about it, the pickups seem like they would be HUGE antennas prone to any type of interference.

When you gruond your guitar should you ground everything to a single point, for instance if you were to put a screw in the side of the cavity and solder everything to that, and then solder that to the output jack ground lug. Would this help from creating a ground loop?

This would also destroy the need to ground your shielding, because the screw(assuming it's conductive) would be attached to the shielding already.

I was thinking the other day about how a maple top on a mahogany back gives it a brighter sound, and was wondering what the sound would be like if you put a mahogany top on a maple back(non-figured of course ).

Has anyone tried this before, and what were the results like?

It's most definitely not clearly the scale length. The LP is 3/4" shorter than the strat, so if it was strictly based on scale length the strat is higher tension.

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Well the scale length of the two guitars is diffrent, this is obviously going to have a pretty big effect on the tension. I also mentioned that the break angle over the nut and the bridge can also have an effect on tension.

I guess I should have worded my previous post better without saying that it was "clearly" the scale length.

It's clearly the scale length.

On Strats they use 25 1/2"

On Les Pauls they use 24 9/16" I believe.

The break angle over the saddles and at the headstock can also have an affect on the tension.

Please do a search before you post anything else.

I just got pictures of the neck he made for me.. It's quite nice.

This is the whole thing.

Close-up of the binding and truss rod.

I had an HB-102/103 set in my Jackson King V. They are worth it if you can get them for under 30 bucks. But they're far from perfect.

I don't think that the 3.5 inch speakers would be as "loud" as a 4x12" because sound waves are from moving air, and a bigger speaker would move more air, right? Maybe a LOT of 3.5" speakers would be as "loud" as a 4x12" but I'd say that it would take a good few.

The 12" speakers would also have a beefier basier tone than the 3.5 inch speakers, they would be good for the high frequencie range, but I wouldn't rely on them if your playing rhythm.

Would a tele picku work? They are angled toward the neck of the guitar so they must be longer. Not sure about this.

I'd say your best bet is to get some sort of piezo pickup. They pickup soundwaves I believe, as compared to a guitar pickup which electrofies a magnet and the metal string moves the magnetic field which creates a sound wave or something. I'M NOT SURE ABOUT ALL OF THIS! But I do know that a magnetic gutiar pickup will never work for a harmonica, but a piezo will. Check it out.

You can use aluminum foil is you like. There are also special conductive paints that you can use for shielding. I'm not sure the names.

Anyone know the names?

That silver paper was for shielding, you shouldn't have taken it off.

The other end of the ground wire should have the ground leads soldered to it.

None of those sites were any good for finding wood suitable for guitar making. At least I dind't see it anywhere.

ebay, try durawoods.  That piece you talk about, I don't like too much.  THe seller had a lot of buy now stuff, if you see somenthing that you like buy it before somebody bids on it.  Sucks to have swomething taken like that, but then again, you mustn't had bid, 'cause there is only one bid on the auction.  Next time bid about 5 min before it ends and then type another amount on a different browser screen and refresh the other one every few seconds.  if somebody outbid you hit bid now on the one that you have set up.  I was lucky on my last piece, somebody bid with 2 min from ending and I bid with seconds left.

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I use eBay frequently, but this time I had the browser open, and was checking back on it for about 2 hours beore it ended in like 5 minute intervals. I go sidetracked on a website, and when I went back clicked refresh, there was ONE SECOND!! left. Literally. So I tried to bid as fast as I could. But unfortuneately missed it.

I really like the pieces natural dark tone, it had a pretty nice figure as well. I think it would look killer with just a clear coat and no stain or anything.

What a piss off!