Roadhouse Blues

OK, so it's OK if it only goes through the first pickup? I thought PRS's usually had long necks spanning to the bridge pickup, but I'm not sure.

Hello,

I'm currently building a PRS McCarty style guitar. I was building a neck, without much of a direction, but I shaved a little bit too much off, and it became too thin to use. Now, I'm going to buy a new neck blank.

1. If I've already glued the two body pieces together, would the guitar be OK if I glued in the neck in by cutting the pickup cavity deeper to the bottom of the first pickup? What I'm asking is would I have enough surface area on the neck to glue it in? The boxed in area on the picture is what the are that the neck would go into if glued (or screwed)

2. If I just screwed my neck in, how would my tone change? With the area shown, would it be better to use glue, or screw taking tonal change and difficulty into account?

Thanks a lot!

-Matt

Thanks everyone for commenting. I think I agree with Setch. It's my first project, and I know a place that I can get quartersawn mahogany relatively cheaply around my area. I think that I may just start over. With a first project, I'd rather pay that little extra, take that little bit longer for perfection.

For the next time, tell me if this sounds good:

Plane the neckstock to 3/4", plane headstock to 1/2" with the 1/8" veneer on top (mahogany neck, rosewood f-board, rosewood veneer).

Thanks guys. Also, I think it'd be good to have the extra reject-neck in order to practice my shaping etc.

thanks,

Matt

Hello. I've just about finished the body of my guitar, and I just glued the headstock onto my neck. The joint is great, but I posted earlier about having glued a piece of wood on by accident. I went a little sanding-crazy, and I was wondering if my neck and headstock are too thin to use. The long neck stock is about 5/8" the whole way, and I will be using a hot rod, and then put a rosewood fingerboard ontop. The neck is mahogany. The headstock is 1/4" now after this crazy sanding, and it will have 1/8" of a veneer on it.

Do you think:

1. The string tension will be too much and break the headstock?

2. The neck is too thin to install the trussrod and carve into shape?

Thanks,

Matt

Thanks. I was gone for the weekend and glad to see suggestions. I will be back in the shop tomorrow and will try sawing or routing.

1-b

2-b

3-a

4-b

5- Agreed- pricing vs. quality. Many instruments made in the US are priced more than others made in asian countries. However, some companies have factories in Asia and America, but they decide to cheap out on the wood sent to Asia, and just put nicer wood into American guitars, making you pay for wood, and origin. Gretsch makes many of its guitars in Japan, and they're excellently crafted, made of nice wood, though expensive. I believe many grestches are worth their prices, but many companies that outsource building to Asia cheap out on materials, such as certain squires, which are made of plywood!!!

Thanks. I figure, though it'll be a huge pain in the ass, I'll probably use heat if I can't chisel it after the weekend. I'm just hoping I won't mess up the joint directly below it that I had intended to make.

Thanks again,

Matt

It was some titebond glue. I'll try some more chiseling, but I don't have a heatgun. If worst comes to worst, I'm going into the shop monday and I can route/sand it off with a little bit of time.

I have a problem: I just glued the headstock piece onto the larger piece for my neck. I used two blocks of wood between the clamps and the neck in order to prevent denting/damage. One block came off easily, but the other is stuck on. Can anyone tell me how to get it off easily? I'm thinking about chiseling on a part that I won't use. I will also be putting a veneer on top of the headstock, but I need this block removed!

Here are pictures of the neck with the block. I guess I could also sand it off.. but that would take awhile.

Any help is appreciated!!

Thanks,

Matt

Does anyone know what types of paint look like those used on the Brian Setzer Hot Rod Models? I just bought a Hot Rod in purple, and I'm thinking about repainting it. I got it very cheaply because it was purple, and I'm thinking about repainting sometime in the next year or so. If anyone knows of the exact paint, or similar paints that give the same hot rod look, please tell me. I'm thinking about blue or red...

If you haven't seen one of these guitars, the paint is solid, but it has a very slight sparkle. It's just like on old hot rods that people have painted... or other cars, if you look closely it sparkles, but it looks solid from far away.

http://gretschguitars.com/gear/index.php?p...=&cat2=&q=&st=1

that's a link to the exact Gretsch link.

Thanks,

Matt

Any takers at $175??? Again, email matt32123@comcast.net

I can give any pics needed

I'm not sure just yet whether or not I will, but would someone like to purchase my Samson Series One Wireless guitar system??? I realized how I won't be needing it anymore due to my cutback in instrument supplies. Here's a little detail:

Samson Series One Guitar Bug

Like New! Samson Airline UHF Wireless System. Includes UR1 receiver and AF1 Instrument transmitter.Includes Fender style Transmitter Reciever AC power supply and Manual.Unit Operates on Channel U5.

The revolutionary AirLine "plug-in" guitar transmitters come in two versions: the AF1 for Strat®-style inputs and the AG1 for traditional Gibson®-style end-mount inputs and all others. Less than half the size of conventional body packs, these miniaturized transmitters run on a tiny triple-A battery with 14-hour battery life. Both feature an array of on-board controls: A Power On/Off and Mute switch, red/green LED for Power On/Off, a Peak LED and an Input Level control for different pickups. And UHF (Ultra High Frequency) means clearer frequencies with less interference.Designed for use with your compact effect pedals, the UR1 true diversity receiver gives you reception you can always depend on. It features a 1/4" and Balanced output jacks, Power switch, Peak LED and a Volume control.

For more info go to. http://www.samsontech.com/products/product...D=1#servsupport

I also have 3 pics. I'll email them if you'd like.

It's like new... no way to tell it has ever been used, nothing wrong wtih any part of it. It also comes with the original pamphlet, one wireless guitar "plug in", original transmitter, original power supply. If I can't get anyone on here, I'll jsut test my luck on eBay.

I'm thinking $199. It's worth $330 new, so I think this is more than fair. The plug in is strat style. It will work with any guitar, it is just made to fit like a strat. The range is over 300 feet. Please tell me if you'd be interested. I could ship next week. Rather than messaging me:

EMAIL ME AT matt32123@comcast.net! IT'S MORE CONVENIENT

email me for questions or offers. I could even ship friday if someone makes me an offer.

-Matt

I'm most likely buying a Gretsch Clipper (1966) very soon, and I was wondering if I would be able to put a Bigsby tremolo tailpiece on it? Mine is just like the one in the picture I'm about to show, but it has 2 pickups and 4 knobs. It does the same bridge and tailpiece however.

Gretsch Clipper Image

Could anyone please help me out, and tell me what they think about this???

No hotlinking to images not hosted and/or owned by you. I have ammended your image to a link. As noted, please don't start multiple discussions on the same topic - your other thread has been deleted. Cheers for your cooperation

THANK GOD I CAN NOW LIVE AGAIN

I'm glad they passed this... that was a crappy suit... PRS just does it better

2 inches is more than thick enough for a bass body, probably a little thicker than you need.  (it'll be heavy) Warmoth lists their bodies as being 1 3/4" thick.  The one I just made is closer to 1 1/2".

edit: Warmoth also lists their bass necks as having a "Standard 2-1/2" wide vintage fender heel specs"  So you're probably fine.  But again, plan around your scale length and choice of bridge.

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Thanks. That's all I needed. I understand the building, I just wanted a quick approximate answer. I'm in the middle of a guitar project, and I just wanted to ask this quick newbie kinda question, because I got this free body for a future project. Thanks

-Matt

OK, is 2.5" wide enough for the base of the neck? and also, is almost 2" enough on the thickness for a bass? I guess that was a kind of general question. I'm guessing approximately measurements of a fender p-bass or jazz bass. Just tell me what you think please.

-Matt

My uncle somehow found this blank body for a guitar, but I was wondering if anyone could give me the measurements of the standard 4 string bass's neck width, and the standard body thickness. One part was pre-cut for the bass's neck to fit into (although it was just a basic shape cut out) and I was wondering if I'd have to cut it off because it's too small. It's a fairly thick blank. I'm not starting the project now, but it'd be great if I could again, have the neck width around where it meets the body, and the body's thickness.

-Matt

TRAYNOR YCV80 ALL THE WAY I love the 80 watt, I honestly don't think 40 would be enough unless you were micing it. The YCV 80 is simply amazing. And I think that the panel fits a few more things on it such as outputs. The reverb is great, pedal and distortion great. I got mine for $450 US off ebay

great buy

I made my own template. On the PRS website, if you click on whatever model you want, you can get a full size guitar picture such as http://prsguitars.com/showcase/current/mcstandard.html click on the mccarty

then, I blew up the picture, printed it out, and taped several pieces of paper together tomake the full size guitar. I had to use the 25" scale lenght from the nut to the bridge as a guide to make ratios, and figure out the sizes of each piece. In the end I made templates. If you email me at matt32123@comcast.net I can email you pics/instructions. When my guitar's done I'm gonna make a site with a tutorial. just email me, and I can easily give you the pictures and dimensions if I can find them. I could also explain further. Hope I helped. Also, I have a picture file of someone's exact PRS measurements if that'd help too.

-Matt

Wow Perry, I didn't know the vine was your first.

Curtis: go to his site... the most helpful pictorial on building a guitar I've come across. I believe your site is www.ormsbyguitars.com? I have it bookmarked

Thanks guys. I will definately be planning out the thicknesses to make sure that my neck gives enough room for the trussrod. My headstock will be angled back, so there shouldn't be as many problems, and with the bit... I'm going to see what's in the shop, but if not I'll use the site from jay5 (thanks!) because it looks better than stewmac (meaning cheaper)

Thanks all you guys for commenting. I made my order of the 1/8" allen hotrod at 18". I suppose I'll see what bits my friend has at the shop, and compare them to the trussrod's measurements. If worst comes to worst, I can order the bit from stewmac, but I just don't know that I'll be making enough guitars to buy the extra bit. If I was sure I'd be making a lot, I'd just buy it rather than check the shop. Thanks guys.

-Matt

Thanks, I was lookin for that 18" lenght.

and to thegarehanman, are you saying you used your own router bit? I've been using the router of a friend at my dad's work. It's a huge workshop, so I'm guessing they'd have all the right bits to give me the right width and height?

Also, this may seem a stupid question. Is the trussrod to be inserted under the fingerboard? I know the skunk stripe on fender guitars are there because the truss rod was installed from the back, but it can be done under the fingerboard, right? I'm guessing that's what PRS and other companies do when they have nice figure on the neck wood that they don't want ruined.

Hot rod takes less experience too install. It's maximum depth is also less than a traditional truss rod, but what you gain in depth that way you lose in its depth at the nut. I like it though. There's almost no way you can screw up with that truss rod...almost.

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On this trussrod, is there a nut at each end, though? or is it just one end?. I think I now get what the picture was showing, and it's just one end. Also:

What size trussrod do you use on a PRS 25" scale length neck? Any ideas anyone? Thanks

-Matt

OK, I've searched for topics like this, but found none. First, on the Stewmac Site would you rather the hot rod truss rod

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/Adj...Truss_Rods.html

or the traditional

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/Adj..._Truss_Rod.html

and what length would you use for a PRS (25" scale length). I'm ordering soon, and I'd like to know. The hot-rod says that it's 'two way', does that mean that you can adjust on either side, because I just want one end at the neck, but the pictures show two different necks. Thanks guys.

-Matt