screamindaemon

I have heard that tone holes can cause feedback issues. I don't have any source for this, it's just something that I remember in the back of my head.

But if it is true, will this issue be increased by adding active pickups into the mix?

Wow, that is exactly what i was looking for, at least for the middle/outer rim of the burst.

Thank you for this.

So hwo do you suppose this was created? Stain, sand, dye, sand? How would i go about continuing to add the brighter yellow/oranges? Continue with Stain, sand, dye (brown/orange), sand, dye (orange/yellow) as I move towards the center?

EDIT: I suppose if I, y'know, actually read the linked post, I could have answered these questions for myself

I'm in the planning phase of my second build.

I want a strong lava feel on the body. And I want it to be 'real' lava effect where the hot yellow is surrounded by the cool reds and browns.

Kinda like this:

I guess my question is, can I stain the curl of the maple or lacewood with the yellow, and then apply orange/red die over top of it? Or would that override the yellow?

Does anybody have any suggestions on how to accomplish this?

Afternoon.

I have finished my first guitar build with decent success (considering the tools I had at the time), and now I'm moving onto something a little more ambitious.

I've always been a fan of explorer bodies, as well as single cut arch top and semi hollow bodies. So I figure, why not throw them all together into one...

Now, I've been trying to do some research on this, but I've yet to find a single picture of an arch top explorer. Do you know of any exist? Or is it simply that the guitar shape, plus extra size to make the explorer body is such that this idea simply won't work, thus the reason for no pictures of it?

I would appreciate any random (yet on topic) advice you may or may not have.

Thanks.

-Cam

Ah! I did not know it had to ground to the strings. That makes much more sense. I thought it just needed to ground to a large mass. Thank you very much.

In one of my cheaper guitars, there is a large screw that is screwed into the body of the guitar from the electronics cavity. the grounds from the pickups/pots are soldered to this screw, which likely is acting as a ground instead of the bridge.

does that clear up the last bit?

Good morning.

my current build has a single bridge humbucker, with a single volume control.

I have a TOM bridge. I was soldering the pickups to the controls when I noticed the wiring diagram mention a ground to bridge. Now I suppose I could drill another hole and solder to the TOM posts. But how important is this? Could I use a large screw embedded into the body of the guitar?

Also, this guitar is noisy as hell. I hear tone out of the amp, but it is very feint. I suppose this is a vague question without a picture of my control pocket, but does this sound like a common problem with electronics? I am confident with my soldering quality.

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but yes, you can do it with a dremel and a plunge base.

That is exactly how I routed my truss rod slot, on the first guitar I built. Mind you, to do it right, and not burn your tool out, it took me I think a dozen passes.

As it has been said before, use the right tool for the right job. I simply didn't have access to a real router at that time, and I had spent my money on a band saw...and I was impatient...

It will work, but for the money you will spend on the plunge base, and bit, you might as well spend an extra 20 bucks and get a real router.

I kept going back a bit further, I found this GOTM http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=22620

http://usera.imagecave.com/backsidetailsli...3323AA-copy.jpg

The black devestator from backsidetailside.

I went through all the GOTM for the past year, and couldn't find it... does Mr. Mykia have a different name on these forums?

Todd, I like your idea. Are you suggesting a recessed knob on the edge face of the guitar?

If so, are you suggesting a push/push knob idea?

Thank you.

Would you then recommend the use of a kill switch hidden somewhere? My only concern with no volume control is not being able to kill the sound when tuning or whatnot, and I forgot to mention that in the original post.

Hi. I'm at the body stage of my current build, and I am (heavily) considering no control knobs at all to keep with the minimalist look of the guitar I have so far (single bridge hum, string-through-body TOM, natural finish).

Obviously I need to have some resistors in the back of the guitar from the pickup to the output, I'm ok with that. But I want to know your thoughts on the functionality of this idea. I've looked around, and can't find many guitars with no knobs.

what do you think?

Hello.

I made a search on this topic and couldnt' find anything, so I turn to you now.

I've seen many pictures of beautiful guitars with natural finish, and the electrical panel matches the grain of the body of the guitar.

How is this done?

do you cut a thin strip off the bottom of the wood, and then cut this in the shape of the electrical cavity?

Ah. I had changed my original title.

The first one read: adjustable vs. non-adjustable truss rods. Therefore, I'm looking for the difference in those two items. My apologies.

Hi. I was wondering what the difference between the two are, and how it effects the guitar in general.

Also, what does the difference in lengths of the truss rod do?

My second question, is where do I go to buy wood? I assume it's a touch more difficult than going to a lumber yard, or is it really that easy?

Thanks.

Strong enough? The glue is not the weak link if the joint is made properly. The surrounding wood will fail well before the glue. Although if subjected to extream heat, moisture and such it will break down. If you subject a guitar to 160 degrees for a sustained period your going to get failures and the wood itself is not likely to fair well. Subject it to say 250-300 degrees for a relatively short period and you will break the glue down.

Hmm, maybe that is the explanation I'm looking for then. What constitutes a good joint? I've seen random pictures where a hole was drilled in both the wing and the main body and a peg was inserted to add to the joint. Is this what you mean? or are there other ways of creating strong joints?

I have a question about glue. What kinds of glue do most people use? Is it really strong enough to hold a guitar together?

Thanks.

Now there is some information that I haven't been able to find:

What should the neck width and depth be?

I'm looking at a 27" scale.

Good day.

I am getting ready to build my first guitar.

I have Melvyn's guitar bible, and I've been reading up on this and other guitar build forums, so hopefully I have some informed questions.

I want to build an 8 string electric solid body, neck-thru, single pick-up, minimal electronics, hard tail bridge.

I haven't decided on the shape of the body, (I'm debating between Explorer/Iceman) but I dont' think that matters just yet. I'm trying to plan out as much as I can before starting to draft out pictures.

When I start building the neck, will I NEED to include two truss rods? or is this just an option to consider? If this is the case, then I assume I will need a 5-ply neck.

How does this sound, and do you have any suggestions for me at this point?

Thanks for your time

-Cam