blackburncustomguitars

the pickups pick the sound from the strings, right?

so if you have a piece/sheet of metal (the pickup cover) between them and the strings would it not obstruct the communication between the pickup and the strings?

am i right in this?

also i read somewhere the silver (plated?) pickup covers are better than nickel etc in terms of allowing the pickup to pickup the sound from the strings. how true is this?

appreciate the feedback.

Hi,

There is so much voodoo/hoodoo on this! The cover will VERY slightly attenuate the sound, but not in a bad way. C'mon guys, cut the crap here!

Peace,

Dave

i've bought a gibson hawk and want to replace the humbuckers and change the 300k pots for 500k ones.

my question basically is how easy it is to replace stock pots/humbuckers?

i've never used a soldering iron before.

though i understand the concept having seen it in use.

with a soldering iron we can melt lead or some such soft metal and use the melted metal to connect two pieces of metal - like wires with metal etc - right?

so even if i have never done it before i guess i can experiment with it on some pieces of metal and gain a bit of expertise before actually trying it on my guitar.

i guess that the wiring on the guitar connect to the humbuckers and the pots.

so i would have to use the solder to disconnect the wires from the humbuckers and the pots and reconnect them to the new humbuckers and the pots.

and is there any issue in removing the old humbuckers and pots? are they connected physically to the guitar apart from the wires which connect them?

i checked with guitar center - they want 150 bucks to do this! sam ash wants 125! i think it is highway robbery! the lowest quote i could get was $70 for a midtown nyc used guitar shop.

but if it is not an easy job, i would rather spend the 70 bucks than screw up the guitar.

also i've only heard that the gibson hawk uses 300k pots. how can i identify if the pots are actually 300k?

also the usual prescription of 500k pots for humbuckers, does it apply to both volume and tone pots?

appreciate the feedback.

Hi,

Give me a call at (USA) 810-376-8532 and I'll walk/talk you through the process.

Peace,

Daave

Hi Derek,

Long time, no talk. I would strongly suggest (depending what sound you are after, which will be self-eveident as to my suggestions) that you go with Seymour Duncan PhatCat P90's, Harmonic Design Vintage Plus humbuckers, or Fender Custom Shop Nocasters. Any combo of the above will also sound great, with many tonal options and pleasures awaiting!

Peace,

Dave

i am making a guitar for me my brother its a Flame maple top.  going to do a yellow stain. 

Its been hollowed out, and I am going to do an fhole.  just not sure what config I should put in.

How are the fender tele humbuckers?  I never played with them and there is a couple of sets on fleabay.

I have yet to decide on a bridge, so its really all open.

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I totally agree. I've used the 510's on a number of guitars for my customers, and the customers have been unanimous in their approval. (They look cool, too.)

Peace,

Dave

Huh. I mean, I don't really like the look of vintage tuners, so I don't go for those, but Gotoh's regular machines, and certainly their 510 series of 'modern' machines are very high quality, excellent tuning machines that at least match Schaller quality, sometimes outdoing Schaller, even.

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Hi,

Go to www.grizzly.com, I think that's it. Anyway, Grizzly tools has a lot of LP-style switches in several finishes and for very good prices. I've used several of them over the last year with no problems.

Peace,

Dave

hi whats a good brand 3 way switch. ive been using allparts and a prs one(very well constructed very pricey) are there any cheaper brands that are bulit well. im not thrilled with the allpart switches.

thank, Adam

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HI,

To me, it looks like Andean rosewood. I've used it before and it looked remarkably similar. I have also been wrong before....regularly, actually.

Peace,

Dave

http://www.deanguitars.com/userpics/lib5/s...20by%20side.jpg

http://www.deanguitars.com/userpics/lib5/DSC03652.JPG

For the sake of argument going on at the dean guitars forum.....what kinda wood is this?

I say Indian Rosewood (or a laminate thereof)

Another guy says Zebrawood

....a few others were way off saying it was ash 

So yeah, you wood experts....what is this?

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Hmm... my dad was just making a frame for a mirror out of pine (gotta love that smell  ) and it got me to wondering, is pine any good for building guitars? what are the upsides and the downsides to it? I've heard it's really warm but why do so many people turn away from it?

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Hi,

Well it IS soft. Usually it doesn't tap test well. I'd pop for the extra bucks and at least go for mahogany or maple.

Peace,

Dave

Hi,

I've built many, many guitars, solid, semi-hollow, and chambered from cherry. I haven't found that it is bright. I feel it is very good throughout the tonal range. It is an outstanding tone wood and can be used for all styles. Yes, neck wood(s) can and do make a difference, just as they do with all neck/body combos. OK, now everybody can take shots! Ha! By the way, I've used this wood for every style from jazz to metal.

Peace,

Dave

I did use the search feature and found out that cherry is a great wood to work with and is very stable. But it is bright.

How bright?

If i use a maple neck, 1/4" maple cap and single coils would it be over bearing?

If i used a maple neck, 1/4" maple cap and humbuckers would it be overbearing?

How do you think it would sound in route out chambers in the body, then put on a maple cap?

The reason im asking this is because i found a peice of two inch stock cherry 24 inches wide. It heartwood only consumes the last 3 inches and the sapwood 2 inches. I think it would look sweet as a back with a maple top. natural finish.

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Hi,

As usual, Lovecraft is right on the mark, which is why I usually recommend contacting the maker and describing your playing style and desired tone. When my customers contact me, it sometimes takes a while to really narrow down the many, many options, basing all decisions on the players style.

Peace,

Dave

Is it just me, or are these threads like saying, "Hey, somebody help me pick out my favorite color..." ? Who do you want to sound like? "Sweet" is about as useless an adjective as one could possibly use in this context, and "vintage" doesn't tell us much either, I'm afraid. How about a hint? 

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Hi,

Contact Jim Wagner at WCR pickups with your info of exact body woods, playing style, amp, etc. and he will fill your needs perfectly. Also, Harmonic Design Vintage Plus humbuckers and Lollar Imperials are great choices. Just put a set of the Harmonic Designs in a totally zebrawood neck-thru and they sound great!

Peace,

Dave

I need to knwo the sweetest sounding pickups for a vintage sounding custom Les Paul I'm building. The two options are the mini-humbuckers or the '57 classic humbuckers. Let me know what you think, thanks.

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Hi,

The Estey says Model 401 on it, for whatever that means. It also says 18 watts, but I highly doubt that.

Peace,

Dave

What kind of Estey?

I've had an M4 and 2 M10's, always wanted an M13.

I modded one of the M10's to a 3-10 and opened up the back, it made about 1000% difference in the sound, it was a great amp after that.

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+1, bro.

Peace,

Dave

If anyone's ears are able to discern a multi-lam body from a 1 piece (of the same type of wood) - I think they should look into getting paid for that talent.

I just don't think it's possible.

In my limited experience - I have found that I prefer 2 piece bodies. I love the built-in center line.

I think some beginners may think that a 1 piece is best for a stained/dyed finish. Maybe that's true if you're not using a top but if you are using a top, a 2 piece is great. The glue lines should not be visible. The grain patterns should be the only thing that gives it away and that is usually also pretty hard to see (depending on the type of wood).

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Hi,

If I knew how to post pics (computer dummy that I am), I would show you a tone of wonderful-sounding guitars that are glue-lammed of from several to MANY pieces of beautiful figured woods. If you use titebond, use great wood, carefully finish with oils or nitro, the results can be outstanding. I must say that I get a little tired of so-called "experts" who say that guitars MUST be this or that way. Please, I have many pros who swear by beautiful glue-lammed bodies. Sorry if I have offended anyone.

Peace,

Dave

One piece mahogany definitely looks great, but as long as you're putting a maple cap on there, there's no need for that (unless you really like staring at the back of your guitar).

Tonally, I challenge any man to hear any difference!

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+1

Peace,

Dave

What kinda bridge are you using chunkie?  If its a TOM then the bass side should be set about 3/16" to 1/4" longer than the treble side.  That ensures that all saddles are roughly in the middle of their adjustment range when properly intonated.

then fit at 2X the nut

Whats that mean?

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I think he means that he fit the bridge at twice (or 2x) the distance from the 12th fret to nut. It confused me also at first.. lol

Like Frank said, the Stew Mac Calc shows where to mount the post, or bridge screws on a particular bridge. I just always set all the adjustments as far forward as they will go, and measure from the takeoff point on the little E string bridge saddle, to the takeoff point from the nut, which is where it meets the fingerboard. The saddles will never need to be closer than the scale length, only exactly the same or more to intonate properly. I hope this makes sense.

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Hi,

Yeah, I've got a Magnatone Varsity from the early '50's and a Magnatone Estey from about 10 years later. Miked up, they sound great. Just not good for gigs. Not to mention I would never move them out of the studio. Scared of damage. I wonder if they are in any demand now.

Peace,

Dave

yeah, I blew it, should have followed my instincts.  A few years back I sold a 70's  all-tube guitar / bass combo, 2X12 amp.  It was a noisy old critter, no way to bias the voltage output without out messing with resistors, weighed a ton and only put out about 25 watts.  Have a look at my avatar, yeah, thats the one, I hardly used it because it was no great shakes compared to my Musicman.  Tried to jam with it and the "un-miked" drums drowned me out even at full volume.     

I originally got it for 10 bucks and invested about $150 total in getting it running, needed transformer, filter caps, and a few tubes.  I also replaced the cord for a 3 prong and grounded the chassis for safety.  I didn't even know what it was until a few years later.  ya seee, someone had painted it black and the badge on the grill was gone.  The original tolex color was red with sparkles and black vermiculations.  I got the black paint off with a quick solvent rub. 

The amp was a Teisco 78-R, one of the rare and unique birds put out by that company at the time.  Mine was fully functional despite the stain on the grill cloth and only a few substitute parts.  I sold the amp for $125 Cdn.  I learned last night that someone bought one of those for $1250 US. 

So keep you're nostalgia, it may sound the sh*ts and might not even work!  But its definitely worth something these days.

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Hi,

I've found that, to my eyes and experience, they are typical import quality. I've used a couple of their five-way switches and found them satisfactory. The three-way toggle switches are better and are available in a variety of finishes. Hope this helps.

Peace,

Dave

I've been searching around for prices for electronics that are cheaper than stewmac and found Grizzly.  Has anyone here bought their pots or switches and could comment on their quality?

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Hi,

Hmmmmmm, a little sitent on the details, such as the origin of the pickups and those cheap-looking tuners. Of course, if you pay sweat-shop pay rates, you could make slmost anything for $1000.

Peace,

Dave

I bet none of ya have heard of this:

but my friend has one of their santana replicas and boy does it sound sweet! It is less than 1000 US$, but howeve double the tone and quality.

It is a must for anyone wanting a cheaper but more out of the ordinary PRS.

Here is the link:

http://www.guitarandpickup.com/

Ash HK 

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Hi Lovecraft,

Thanks for all your effort and help. After a little patient (??!!??!) trail-and-error, I've settled on the green as hot, red+white soldered together, and black+bare to ground. At least that's what gives me the best reading on my multimeter. You can bet I'll keep notes on this one! Once again, thanks for taking the time to help me with my problem.

Peace,

Dave

Sorry, Dave - I couldn't find anybody who could tell me which is which. Hope you've had better luck! It's apparently the best-kept secret in pickups - nobody would even hazard a guess! 

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Hi,

Sorry, I'm a little dense on this. My deal is working wood and finishes. The pups have 4 wires of different colors and a stranded ground. I don't know how to do continuity, but I DO have a multimeter. Please have patience with a guy who is trying. Thanks.

Peace,

Dave

If those are the 3-wire Vintage style and you've got a multimeter handy, you can easily figure it out for yourself - the ground lead should show continuity (low or even 0 ohms) to the shielding, and of the 3 possible lead combinations, hot to ground should show about double the resistance of the other two - use the lowest resistance setting (continuity) setting to find the ground lead and the 20K setting to sort out the hot lead. I hope that's clear enough, sometimes I tend to muddle the obvious.

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Hi,

I have a set of Harmonic Design Vintage Plus humbuckers. I've searched everywhere, and the company is not very responsive. Can anyone give me the color code for their wires in these babies? I'm wiring to a three-way switch with no splitting or anything. My electronics guy is gone for 2 weeks. I would greatly appreciate any help, and thanks in advance.

Peace,

Dave

Hi,

Yes the build your own clone site is Big Tone Music Brewery.

Peace,

Dave

Do I have a business opportunity for you.

I have enough trouble breakin' even on assembled and tested stompboxes! Thanks, but I can't afford an opportunity like that! The profit margin is about the same as a front yard lemonade stand.

If you're lookin' for kits, try build your own clone - they've got a fair selection, and they come with boards and pre-drilled boxes. Once you build a couple of kits, you'll figure it out - you can do it yourself for about what it costs the kit maker to get everything together and send it to you. Any way you look at it, it's still always cheaper to buy a mass-produced pedal than to build the same thing. The only time I'd bother to build a clone is if the pedal is an expensive booteek box with mystical powers and a price to match, or if I'm looking for something popular that's been out of production long enough for the price to become unreasonable. But that's just me - as always, YMMV...

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Hi,

Big Tone Music Brewery makes many kits of all kinds of pedals. Good quality.

Peace,

Dave

Hi,

In my humble opinion, cherry would look cool as a fretboard, but it is WAY too soft for a fretboard. Sorry. It IS a great tone wood, however. I use a lot of it.

Peace,

Dave

Hi,

Go to www.rsguitarworks.net and get one of their wiring upgrades. You can get the parts, including a Hovland cap or you can have them solder it for you. Look for Melodymaker stuff or any other configuration. My costomers love the stuff they do.

Peace,

Dave

I came across this....Wiring Harness on Ebay

What do you all think? I'll be working on an LP Jr inspired (i.e., P90-based) project next...is this harness worth it, or could I make my own just as easily for less-- or should I just go with the bits and pieces I already have here?

What's the most important part of the harness? The type of pots? The type of caps?

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Hi,

I'd go with the 4" one. It looks better and will afford a better structure. I hope you're not planning to possibly sell this one, because it LOOKS as if it is really off cednter. Of course, it could be me......

Peace,

Dave

hi im undecided if i should go with a 3" or 4" neck pocket. here are mockups of both

neck pockets

which do u all like better? either way the pocket  will be rounded rather then square as pictured.

any other comments are welcome

Adam

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